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Fencing

Posted: Thu Oct 06, 2011 8:25 am
by cornmuse
Third post here, since April. I check in regularly tho.
My brothers and myself are building a rolling gate (on 1" angle iron track). It is 12' 6" long and 55" high (on 5" box with wheel). They 'decided' to make it of 2x2x3/16" stock and it weighs a ton. I think if a car runs into it, that wont hurt the gate but will probably bend the posts on both ends. Its to keep honest people honest, we have an acre of "country" in the middle of the city, actually I was born there whew 64 years ago! and we get a LOT of people driving through to see whats back there. I think its way overkill. I think 1/8" or even 3/32" would be enough.
My bros are both carpenters with building contractors licenses, I am retired from Operating Engineers (heavy equiptment) I was a grade checker trying to control the circus. I just enjoy welding things together, creating things.

The weight seems a heavy load for an opener unit? The weight slamming into the end post on closing also seems damaging over time, the track is not level, its at about 3% fall down-hill to close.
What do you think, anyone?? 3/16, 1/8, 3/32"? something else? cornmuse

Re: Fencing

Posted: Thu Oct 06, 2011 11:59 am
by JDP
There is nothing wrong with a bit of overkill...sometimes. Depends on whose money is buying the material and paying for the labor. I have no doubt that is one heavy sucker. Not knowing the exact design, you could build the frame of the gate with the 3/16 wall, and make the braces 11 ga. (roughly .125). This would cut down on the weight significantly compared to 3/16 wall all the way. As for it slamming into the posts, can you not adjust the opener so that it barely kisses the posts when shut?? Also what do you have for your "posts"? If you cant adjust the opener, which I would think you could, though I m wrong plenty of the time, that would be what I try first. Maybe brainstorm some kind of stop with a heavy spring to absorb some of the energy as the gate makes contact with the post. You would most likely do just fine welding everything together with a 6010 or 6011... I would weld the 3/16 together with 7018 and then the 11 ga braces with either 3/32 7018 or 6010 as it is plenty thick enough to get a good weld but if the fit isn't real tight it will want to burn through on you. If you choose the low hydrogen route for the braces, fit it good and hold the arc a little more on the heavier wall (3/16) it ll come out lookin real slick. probably around 80-90 amps for 3/32. Theres my two cents. Or really rather a nickel.

Re: Fencing

Posted: Thu Oct 06, 2011 7:51 pm
by delraydella
To someone who isn't used to working with steel , using a 3/16 or 1/8th " wall tube doesn't sound like very much.....until you go to pick the ^%&*%$ thing up and it weighs more than 40 tons! You have some overkill, but it should be easy to fix.

Get a good roller wheel for the bottom, even more than one across will work. Get a good one with wheel bearings, not a cheap one with just a bolt axle.
Level the track. You can counterweight the gate to help with the initial pull, but it will be fighting a losing battle if the track isn't level.
Get good rollers for the track, something that will take the weight plus some. The track rollers are the most important thing in the whole process. If one goes bad, you'll suffer and you'll have to take down the whole gate to replace it.
If you can, truss out the track with some 1 1/2" or so Schedule 40 pipe to give strengh to the track and to help keep it straight. This one isn't as important as the first 3 , but it can make a huge difference over the long run.


Hope that helps,
Steve, a former stage show rigger

Re: Fencing

Posted: Wed Oct 12, 2011 1:21 am
by Ferrelli
Heavier isn't always better! .125 is plenty, good bearing rollers spaced out to balance the load. Your design is important, have some fun with it, get creative. I would use .08 wall sq. tube for your pickits, 3\4 or 1in. Level track anchor it well into concrete. Figure the weight of the gate and get a openner that will handle the wt. You should be able to find a soft start and stop. Plus a safety edge if you live in town, or you might get that property taken away in a lawsuit. If some kid gets caught in it. This is no joking matter I'm sorry to say. Rolling gates are very dangerous. Brain fart ---325 I cant think of the letters, its the code that perscribes the safety euipment that you must have. Sorry to give you more to think about, good luck!

Re: Fencing

Posted: Thu Oct 13, 2011 8:47 am
by cornmuse
It was decided by the 'boss' (youngest bro-he's in charge) 2x3/16 its 12' 6" l x 5' high on rollers w/ 3 1x2 slats and a 3x3" wire grid behind.
BTW, I took some smaller parts and welded them at home with my tig, I just love using that thing!! My nephew used to have a welding business and was pressed into welding the gate itself with his 110v mig welder, he is FAST & CLEAN. After he was finished and gone, I picked up the mig (well, flux cored) torch and tried it. I had NEVER tried this before, and after 'bout 5 minutes I could run an ugly bead. I am gonna get one of those! His is an older lincoln 110v 125 amps?
I have been taking pics and will post a few I get some time. corn

Re: Fencing

Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2011 3:19 am
by walterjo
delraydella wrote:To someone who isn't used to working with steel , using a 3/16 or 1/8th " wall tube doesn't sound like very much.....until you go to pick the ^%&*%$ thing up and it weighs more than 40 tons! You have some overkill, but it should be easy to fix.

Get a good roller wheel for the bottom, even more than one across will work. Get a good one with wheel bearings, not a cheap one with just a bolt axle.
Level the track. You can counterweight the gate to help with the initial pull, but it will be fighting a losing battle if the track isn't level.
Get good rollers for the track, something that will take the weight plus some. The track rollers are the most important thing in the whole process. If one goes bad, you'll suffer and you'll have to take down the whole gate to replace it.
If you can, truss out the track with some 1 1/2" or so Schedule 40 pipe to give strengh to the track and to help keep it straight. This one isn't as important as the first 3 , but it can make a huge difference over the long run.


Hope that helps,
Steve, a former stage show rigger







Not knowing the exact design, you could build the frame of the gate as much as you want and how would you design it for real!!!

Re: Fencing

Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2011 3:21 am
by walterjo
Not knowing the exact design, you could build the frame of the gate as much as you want and how would you design it for real!!!
walterjo




Rolling Gate Repair Bronx
Rolling Gate Repair Staten Island

Re: Fencing

Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2011 9:45 am
by cornmuse
Rightm now we are BUSY with other stuff on the property, Ive taken a few pics, but still havent gotten them on the computer. The gate looks good, its just been primered, we still need to run elec for the opener, etc. etc. maybe Ill get some pics on this weekend, , , cornmuse

Bud, you should register here!!! (he's my big bro, and paranoid!)