Hi, everyone. 1st time on Welding tips and Tricks. I belong to three other forums, mostly woodworking forums. However, I just got my certification in stick welding form Cerritos College in California. I was tired of paying thru the nose for small welding jobs that I needed done. What caught my eye, was my search for reviews on inverter welders and someone posted in that they were not good. Most of the reviews were favorable. I'm intending on buying a dual inverter(110/220) Thermal Arc 161S. I'm not doing structual steel, mostly home projects. 1/8" sq. tube steel for a lumber rack, fix my BBQ, and I want to make a trailer for my boat, 3/16" channel. I do have a buzz box Ac and DC, but, nowhere to plug it in. I live in an apartment and only have 110V/20amp. A generator is too expensive. Anyone have one of these?
General welding questions that dont fit in TIG, MIG, Stick, or Certification etc.
rahtreelimbs
- rahtreelimbs
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I have one of these on layaway (mine is the STL version). Bought it mostly for its portability and I got a good price on it. From everything I have read Thermal Arc makes real good stuff !!!
Transformer based machine may be a dying breed. Take for example a Lincoln Precision TIG 225. This unit weighs over 200 lbs. and requires 74 amps to run at full output. Compare that to an HTP 221 Invertig.........40 lbs. and will run on a 30 amp circuit. The Lincoln can hardly be called portable. The HTP 221 costs a few hundred more that the Lincoln Precision TIG 225 but besides the aforementioned advantages it also overs more it hertz control and pulse.......so on !!!!
I went through all this 6 mos. ago and have been very happy with my HTP 221 In vertig !!!
Transformer based machine may be a dying breed. Take for example a Lincoln Precision TIG 225. This unit weighs over 200 lbs. and requires 74 amps to run at full output. Compare that to an HTP 221 Invertig.........40 lbs. and will run on a 30 amp circuit. The Lincoln can hardly be called portable. The HTP 221 costs a few hundred more that the Lincoln Precision TIG 225 but besides the aforementioned advantages it also overs more it hertz control and pulse.......so on !!!!
I went through all this 6 mos. ago and have been very happy with my HTP 221 In vertig !!!
I appreciate the feed back. I know, my buzz box was a bear to move. In order to run it, I will have to buy a generator with a minimum of 50 amp. I like your explanation better. 70 amp is more likely. And with a generator, there's someting I will have to maintain. I''m purchasing the 161S, like the picture I showed. I don't tig, but, I will have that option. My pad test was on 3/4" metal using 3/32" rod and 5/64" rod. My cert. is only the first of the three needed which I won't complete. I just wanted to learn how to weld. The 161S will take a 5/64" and 3/32", but, I'm not sure what amps to set it at. Inverters are DC only which is fine. 6011 is a deeper penetrating rod, anyway. I just googled HTP 221 invertig. 2500 bucks! The 161S is $617. I only have 110V/20 amp. There's no place where I can go to weld with 220V. I hope this thing will work.
Ultralow787
- Ultralow787
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Craiglam,
I agree with pretty much everything you have said. Inverters are the thing of the future. If you don't need more power than the 161S puts out, then go for it!
I'm a bit confused by your statement about the 6011 rods though. You said they are good for penetration, and that is true, but most people run them on AC machines. If you have DC with this inverter welder, you would likely use 6010 rods. They are basically the same except that the 6011 rods have stabilizers in the flux to maintain an arc while the current is switching from positive to negative when using AC. With DC, you don't need them.
We have a small Miller Maxstar 150 that runs on a 120 volt 20 amp supply and it does great!
A good rule of thumb to use when determining what to set your amps at, is 1 amp per thousandths of rod diameter. 3/32 = .090 or 90 amps. 1/8 = .125 or 125 amps . Of course, travel speed, rod angle, and position of weld will require you to tweak these settings somewhat, but this is a good starting point, especially when welding flat.
I agree with pretty much everything you have said. Inverters are the thing of the future. If you don't need more power than the 161S puts out, then go for it!
I'm a bit confused by your statement about the 6011 rods though. You said they are good for penetration, and that is true, but most people run them on AC machines. If you have DC with this inverter welder, you would likely use 6010 rods. They are basically the same except that the 6011 rods have stabilizers in the flux to maintain an arc while the current is switching from positive to negative when using AC. With DC, you don't need them.
We have a small Miller Maxstar 150 that runs on a 120 volt 20 amp supply and it does great!
A good rule of thumb to use when determining what to set your amps at, is 1 amp per thousandths of rod diameter. 3/32 = .090 or 90 amps. 1/8 = .125 or 125 amps . Of course, travel speed, rod angle, and position of weld will require you to tweak these settings somewhat, but this is a good starting point, especially when welding flat.
Perfection is impossible, but if you strive for perfection, excellence is obtainable!
1983 Canox "Sparkler" 225 AC Stick Welder
Hobart 210 MVP MIG Welder
Harris "Spitfire" Oxy-Acetylene Set
1983 Canox "Sparkler" 225 AC Stick Welder
Hobart 210 MVP MIG Welder
Harris "Spitfire" Oxy-Acetylene Set
The info you gave me is great. I'm a beginner, so all the info is greatly appreciated. According to my notes, a rod ending in 1 is either DC+ and AC. I'll check my notes again. I'm not going to be welding with anything larger than 3/32. That tip about the rod size and amp is the best. I'm gonna have a ton more questions when my welder actually gets here in about a week. Thanks again. One actually wouldn't think that a 64th of an inch would make that much difference. It does.
It's fersure a fact that inverter welders are here to stay, but at the moment our markets are flooded with some really crappy imports.
That said, do your homework and AVOID those that flood google and certain welding boards with their marketing, or should I say 'over marketing' ?....I'ma going to go ahead and say Everlast and Longevity even if sayin so is a no-no here....And NO, please don't trash me if you by chance got a good one.
The Miller inverter unit seems WAY over priced even if it is Miller, BTW and there are many just as good for a third the price.
Rather than talk which inverter welder might be your best choice, let's back up and consider your actual situation first....
You live in an apartment with only 110VAC available....There is NO quarantee your circuits will carry a full 20 amps even AFTER you upgrade a wall outlet to 20 amp...It depends on things you can't see or easily remedy....All other outlets on the circuit you plan to use might be backwired, and your choice outlet location might be several outlets downstream of other outlets in that circuit...Let's say that circuit also supports your icebox of freezer and it kicks on when you are burning a rod and then experience low voltage or serious sag-that's not good.
First look at you apartment wiring and breaker panel-pull a few outlets from their boxes and check to see it they are wired with full 12AWG and if they are backwired or terminated at the outlet screws, plus flip the breaker that supplies your outlet of choice and see what else is powered by that circuit.
Don't forget you can always tap off your dryer plug for stiff 220VAC....Yup, so consider that too.
That said, do your homework and AVOID those that flood google and certain welding boards with their marketing, or should I say 'over marketing' ?....I'ma going to go ahead and say Everlast and Longevity even if sayin so is a no-no here....And NO, please don't trash me if you by chance got a good one.
The Miller inverter unit seems WAY over priced even if it is Miller, BTW and there are many just as good for a third the price.
Rather than talk which inverter welder might be your best choice, let's back up and consider your actual situation first....
You live in an apartment with only 110VAC available....There is NO quarantee your circuits will carry a full 20 amps even AFTER you upgrade a wall outlet to 20 amp...It depends on things you can't see or easily remedy....All other outlets on the circuit you plan to use might be backwired, and your choice outlet location might be several outlets downstream of other outlets in that circuit...Let's say that circuit also supports your icebox of freezer and it kicks on when you are burning a rod and then experience low voltage or serious sag-that's not good.
First look at you apartment wiring and breaker panel-pull a few outlets from their boxes and check to see it they are wired with full 12AWG and if they are backwired or terminated at the outlet screws, plus flip the breaker that supplies your outlet of choice and see what else is powered by that circuit.
Don't forget you can always tap off your dryer plug for stiff 220VAC....Yup, so consider that too.
Hobart 210MVP
Hobart 235AC/DC Stickmate
Hypertherm Powermax 45
HF O/A
Longevity Stickweld 140 (intended for Tig)
Hobart 235AC/DC Stickmate
Hypertherm Powermax 45
HF O/A
Longevity Stickweld 140 (intended for Tig)
You are absolutely correct! After spending all that time searching and surfing, I talked to some people and found out that you cannot weld aluminum with an inverter. Even with the tig it comes with. I told him that I got my cert. in stick and it would be a shame if I didn't use it. He said there's more to life than knowing how to stick weld. They also taught you mig as well. Mig welders have almost no slag, no arc blow, can weld Al and SS and can still run on 110V. So, today I'm buying the Lincoln K-2688-2 for $615. Retail is about $924. 3 year warranty. I should get it in 7 to 10 days. I was a little hesitant about these inverters. I'll do fluxcore NR-211 until I can afford a bottle. Thanks for the advice. Sometimes I get a little thick headed.
rahtreelimbs
- rahtreelimbs
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CraigLam wrote:You are absolutely correct! After spending all that time searching and surfing, I talked to some people and found out that you cannot weld aluminum with an inverter. Even with the tig it comes with. I told him that I got my cert. in stick and it would be a shame if I didn't use it. He said there's more to life than knowing how to stick weld. They also taught you mig as well. Mig welders have almost no slag, no arc blow, can weld Al and SS and can still run on 110V. So, today I'm buying the Lincoln K-2688-2 for $615. Retail is about $924. 3 year warranty. I should get it in 7 to 10 days. I was a little hesitant about these inverters. I'll do fluxcore NR-211 until I can afford a bottle. Thanks for the advice. Sometimes I get a little thick headed.
Are you sure you have your info right..........the Miller Dynasty 200 is an inverter machine and can weld aluminum all day long !!!
- Otto Nobedder
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Used a very nice Lincoln 310T inverter to weld more x-ray aluminum pipe than I want to think about.
That 400 Hz was SWEET!
There are stricly DC inverters that you wouldn't want to weld Al with, unless working in a purge box (yes, you can weld Al with DC, under certain conditions), but you absolutely CAN (and, after much experience, I'd say "SHOULD") weld Al with an inverter.
Steve
That 400 Hz was SWEET!
There are stricly DC inverters that you wouldn't want to weld Al with, unless working in a purge box (yes, you can weld Al with DC, under certain conditions), but you absolutely CAN (and, after much experience, I'd say "SHOULD") weld Al with an inverter.
Steve
I looked up Miller Dynasty 200. Nice welder. $4000! Are you kidding me? I was looking for something for under 700 bucks for just light duty work. A lumber rack, fix my bike, weld a trailer. This is what I bought.
The k-2688-2 retails for $964. I got it for $615. It will weld 3/8" steel in a single pass. NR-211 or L-56, I can weld whatever comes my way. And man, did I check. I already have a buzz box. Trying to find a generator was impossible. Someone on this post said, to get the full range of amps, your gonna need 70 amps to run your welder. He's right. For what I need, this mig is gonna work great. There was also a "C" version of this model. It had more variable adjustments, but, I couldn't justify the extra money. Anyway, It'll be here in 5 working days. By the way, it's the industrial version, not the Home Depot version. I think my first project should be a welding cart.
The k-2688-2 retails for $964. I got it for $615. It will weld 3/8" steel in a single pass. NR-211 or L-56, I can weld whatever comes my way. And man, did I check. I already have a buzz box. Trying to find a generator was impossible. Someone on this post said, to get the full range of amps, your gonna need 70 amps to run your welder. He's right. For what I need, this mig is gonna work great. There was also a "C" version of this model. It had more variable adjustments, but, I couldn't justify the extra money. Anyway, It'll be here in 5 working days. By the way, it's the industrial version, not the Home Depot version. I think my first project should be a welding cart.
- Otto Nobedder
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- weldin mike 27
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It finally came.
This is a SP 140T, the industrial version. Weighs 65 lbs. I looked at it carefully and everything on it is nice. The nozzle is more industrial than the single tube type. There is some sort of fitting on the inside. The wire rollers are seperate. There are three, .025, .030, and .035. I gotta clean my garage and start making plans for a welding cart. Next month I'll probably get a bottle. This unit is really well made. Even the door is double walled. My cat has to inspect everything.
This is a SP 140T, the industrial version. Weighs 65 lbs. I looked at it carefully and everything on it is nice. The nozzle is more industrial than the single tube type. There is some sort of fitting on the inside. The wire rollers are seperate. There are three, .025, .030, and .035. I gotta clean my garage and start making plans for a welding cart. Next month I'll probably get a bottle. This unit is really well made. Even the door is double walled. My cat has to inspect everything.
rahtreelimbs
- rahtreelimbs
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CraigLam wrote:Hi, everyone. 1st time on Welding tips and Tricks. I belong to three other forums, mostly woodworking forums. However, I just got my certification in stick welding form Cerritos College in California. I was tired of paying thru the nose for small welding jobs that I needed done. What caught my eye, was my search for reviews on inverter welders and someone posted in that they were not good. Most of the reviews were favorable. I'm intending on buying a dual inverter(110/220) Thermal Arc 161S. I'm not doing structual steel, mostly home projects. 1/8" sq. tube steel for a lumber rack, fix my BBQ, and I want to make a trailer for my boat, 3/16" channel. I do have a buzz box Ac and DC, but, nowhere to plug it in. I live in an apartment and only have 110V/20amp. A generator is too expensive. Anyone have one of these?
I got my Thermal Arc 161 STL yesterday..............what a great machine !!!
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So what kind of rod are you using? Does it stick? Post some photos. My first project will be to put my tall compressor in my van and weld it to the inside. I need compressed air if I'm working in the field and it's troublesome to load and unload evrytime. Last time I left in, my van was burglarized. The cops caught the thiefs and returned what they stoled. Good luck trying to take a compressor out of van that's welded to the frame! Welding rocks!
rahtreelimbs
- rahtreelimbs
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CraigLam wrote:So what kind of rod are you using? Does it stick? Post some photos. My first project will be to put my tall compressor in my van and weld it to the inside. I need compressed air if I'm working in the field and it's troublesome to load and unload evrytime. Last time I left in, my van was burglarized. The cops caught the thiefs and returned what they stoled. Good luck trying to take a compressor out of van that's welded to the frame! Welding rocks!
Using 7014 rods........I will get some pics up in a day or so !
Nice! I fired mine up today, works great. Now I'm looking for a bottle. I can get one from HF for $84.00. I'm using FCAW in the meantime. I have some small projects to work on and don't get paid 'till Wed. Good luck with your new welder.
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