Welding Tips and Tricks

I noticed on jodys videos somtimes he set the welder in volts instead of amps.is this a different ty of e if setting , my welder has only amp settings.

What brand/model of welder do you have, so I can look it up and learn about it

Thanks, John

Traditionally Mig welders are set by voltage & arc / Tig welders are set by current - this is still largely true - but with modern inverter sets they often have digital displays for both - this maybe because they are multi process machines or some will allow you to set one & display an estimate of the other - or on synergic Mig sets you set a target value based on material & position & the display shows what the machine estimates for that criteria - there is then a % leeway that can be set up or down from this figure - perhaps you could elaborate on which video your referring to of Jody's & / or what your machine is for a better explanation.

Oh - & welcome to the forum from the UK.

racer34 wrote:I noticed on jodys videos somtimes he set the welder in volts instead of amps.is this a different ty of e if setting , my welder has only amp settings.

Racer, what brand model of welder do you have

AKweldshop wrote:

racer34 wrote:I noticed on jodys videos somtimes he set the welder in volts instead of amps.is this a different ty of e if setting , my welder has only amp settings.

Racer, what brand model of welder do you have

My bad, should of looked at your profile, solar 2175, never heard of this brand maybe some of the other guys will know

Good Luck

John

the video I think was the one when he's building an over head boom for his wire feeder

It also seems when he's mig welding the setting are in volts on a digital read out. maybe that's just the way they read on a digital machine? my machine only has numbers on a dial.i was just wondering about it and never really thought about it until I saw his videos

oh and by the way just received a snap- on 150 tig welder for Christmas. anybody have any comments on this machine

On older transformer style machines ( which I assume yours is ) the voltage setting is limited to how many tappings are on the main transformer - so on a small set 7 is common ( my little 200amp set is like this ) if your lucky there maybe a chart on the machine that shows roughly what voltage these equate to ( or you can measure them yourself with a suitable meter ) you then set wire speed to suit - this was how most Migs were until quite recently - setting them was done purely by experience by a competent welder ( many said that once a welder set a machine you could train a monkey to point the torch & do repetitive production welds ! ) now with the power conversion in inverter Mig sets being electronic it is completely variable without steps within the capacity of the machine - the volts could be simply marked around the control knob but it's common to have a digial display - it's not strictly needed but it makes it easier to see your settings & for people with limited experience as it's now possible to simply look up weld parameters from places like the Miller weld site & dial it into your machine - the wire speed still needs to be set which on some is still just by experience - but some will display this in inches / minute & again this can be looked up - either way a good weld is achievable whether the machine is covered in lights & digital displays - or it's a plain box with a few switches on - I like "old school " machines as they were better built & there is less to go wrong & if it does you have a good chance of repairing it - the new all electronic machines are largely throw away - even the good brands ! but it does seem to make it easier for people with little or no experience to pickup welding - good for hobbyists - less good in the workplace.

Nice Christmas present on the Tig ! I've mentioned over the years how I like anything with Miller or Hypertherm on - still get underwear & suchlike !

I don't know that particular model - but it's safe to say it is a very over priced model from the Italy ( probably Cebora ) as a gift I would be happy - but I would never buy anything welding related from Snap On - I'm sure on DC it will be a fine starter Tig Machine - on AC the 150amps is very low for aluminum - you may do 1/8" on short runs with it - I doubt anything thicker is realistic taking duty cycle into account - careful planning to allow open / outside corner joints rather than inside fillets will help though & if you get the bug you can always sell it on for something in the 250amp range.

thanks for the info noddybrian,i guess on the older machines I am adjusting voltage but just didn't know what the number was.as far as my tig welder goes it wasn't my first choice but my friend has a in with a snap-on dealer .I would have rather got a lincoln precision 225. I know the snap-on welders are way over priced but I think he got it cheaper than the Lincoln machine that goes for about 2300 ready to go with a cart.i'll see how it goes its my first tig welder and only plan on using it for our race cars not on any heavy plate ,but it would have been nice to get something that would do some heavy stuff. I know what will happen, the first thing that needs to be welded will be some 3/8 aluminum.i cant really complain though its the thought that counts.

Never used a 225 - if it's the one I think it is ChuckE2009 uses one - they look a nice if old fashioned machine - arc shots always look nice and stable - but I believe the duty cycle is very poor.

If your main use for the Snap-On Tig is sheet metal & tube frame bits on a race car it is more than adequate & as it was a gift I think you very happy once used to it - I imagine a good many other forum members have received far less desirable gifts this holiday season !