Welding Tips and Tricks

My dad is cleaning out his shop and I got his 1/2 hp table drill press. Good score because I was going to buy one in the future. Cleaned it up fixed a switch that needed some simple wiring fixed. The press is 35-40 years old made in Taiwan yes it is a import but 40 year old import's are different then the import's now days. The chuck has seen better days. It is not a morse taper chuck with the wedge slot. How do you remove the chuck? any pics would be great.

Open the chuck all the way. Get a light and a mirror so you can look up inside it. Some have a screw into the end of the shaft. Pull the screw and use a slide hammer to pop it loose.

I did run into an old one at my friends farm that was threaded to the shaft. You had to look really close at the top of the chuck and shaft but you could just see the edge of the thread. You probably have one of those two.

I made some wedges and was able to pop it of. The chuck was molested real bad . The shaft that holds the chuck on has a taper any idea how to remove the tapered shaft? It is scared and but seems alright. I would replace if I could.

The shaft is part of the machine & will be held in the quill bearings - unless you have machine shop facilities it's not replaceable in the normal sense - if it's not bent I'd leave it alone - just clean up the taper before fitting a new chuck - most of my smaller stuff I've fitted with keyless chucks for convenience - ( the good sort - not like a plastic cordless drill one ! ) you just need to figure out the correct Jacobs taper.

It should say on the chuck what the taper is, like JT-3 or something like that. Most drill chucks will have the mounting type stamped into the chuck itself. If you want to clean up the taper in the shaft, you can buy a corresponding taper reamer and clean it up that way. It will at least get any burrs out of there.


Other Steve

BTW, if anyone is wondering where the taper numbers come from, such as a Morse #2 taper or a Jarno 5........if you imagine a cone shape going from a narrow top to a wide bottom and divided into equal sections of length, the numbers refer to a specific section of that cone, so a #1 Morse taper would be the top of the cone going down a certain length, ending at the top of the Morse #2 taper and so on.

I watched a utube by chance it was just like mine. So I took the quill and spindle out. There seems to be no run out on the spindle. The chuck just has 13 mm on it nothing else. I measured the spindle and think it is a #6 Jacobs. I will hunt it down tomorrow. If nothing else I know the working of a drill press now.

maybe you could attached a picture of your drill press. I repair some old drill press and other workshop machine (lathe , milling, etc) before i work on the ship (25 years ago more or less)The oldest drill press I handled is a Y type flat belt pulley driven Southbend drill , maybe i can contribute something if i see a picture of your drill press. About the drill chuck you can replace it with key less drill chuck with good quality don't settle for cheap one. Cheap key less drill chuck uses a plastic guide inside. Why key less chuck? because the moment you loose your key is the moment your chuck get abused and it will become a toothless chuck in no time

I will try to take some pics. I have to learn how to get some pics on the forum. I have some good ones to share.

gundog wrote:I will try to take some pics. I have to learn how to get some pics on the forum. I have some good ones to share.

Hi, Gundog.

That stumped me too at first. Here's how: http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... =25&t=2466

I'd recommend that method vs. linking to sites like Photobucket - this method preserves your images in your posts. A lot of valuable posts become worthless when folks cancel their Photobucket accounts.

Cheers,
Richard