Welding Tips and Tricks

I have a roughly 30"x48" x1/4" piece of steel i want to use for a welding table top, it has pretty heavy surface rust, no pitting though. Wondering what the easiest way to go about getting it clean? Obviously a sanding disk would work, but very time consuming. Was thinking spraying with muriatic acid, but probably not a good idea with the welding heat creating fumes?? thanks for any suggestions

A big wire wheel/cup brush on a 9in grinder should do something.
Than a sander.

If I only had a 9" grinder. 4 1/2 is all I have hence "time consuming" aspect! Maybe I could borrow one. Cost of a 9 inch whire wheel probably more than a new sheet of steel!

Mine is 1 x 2 meters and I de-rusted with a 4" knotted cup wheel yesterday. Took me 10 minutes.

Might try it with a 4.5....
I guess I take it for granted that I have the big stuff.

Shouldn't take that long. I just finished my welding table a week ago and it it 48x72. And it had surface rust on it. I used a 9 inch with a knotted cup wheel.

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk

The 4-1/2" cup brush will work fine. Hold it flat and go to town. I would advise against using any chemicals, as you may not know how they will/might react to welding. I know of those who use diesel as a preservative after they get it cleaned up, but I am not saying to do it. I use Anti-Spatter to coat my welding tables tops. This works for both a rust inhibitor and obviously helps keep it clean and free of weld berries.
-Jonathan

Molasses and water.

A guy in Australia I keep loosing his name, is quite a craftsman. He does videos where he ferments a 9 to one soup of water and molasses. He soaks steel in it a week at a time. Weekly he pressure washes it. sometimes it takes 2 to three soaks. It's amazing how well it works!

My 85 year old genius friend uses two pieces of steel, a battery charger in a tub of water mixed with washing soda. the process is similar to cathodic cleaning of aluminum while welding. He has had steam engines that look like they were salvaged from the Titanic come out rust free!

Muriatic acid is not a good idea. it is almost impossible to neutralize.

Phosphoric acid is a far better alternative. Krud Kutter brand concrete prep and etch works well.

Many years ago, I used Coke syrup to take rust off engine block cylinders. I also put a tooth in a glass and covered it with the syrup. The next morning it was gone! I'm not sure if you can find the syrup any more.

lots of good tips in here guys thanks. I have a flat knotted small wheel, but thats about it! Probably should invest in a cupped one anyway. They work better on flat surfaces I take it!

Antorcha wrote:Mine is 1 x 2 meters and I de-rusted with a 4" knotted cup wheel yesterday. Took me 10 minutes.

I had a 48"x 18"x 1/4" slab of steel that I lag bolted to the wall studs in our shop and welded some legs on the other end and it was rusted pretty heavy and i used one of the cup wheels and it eats the rust like a fat boy with a donut. It took hardly any time to do. I only had a 4 1/2" grinder and the cup wheel works a lot better than a flat wire wheel or flap disk.

just ordered 2 dewalt 3" for 20 shipped seemed like a good deal. Gonna give it a go. Unfortunately my older milwakee grinder has a 1/2-13 arbor. Most are 5/8, or M10. Searched high and low for an adapter, not much luck. On the prowl for a new grinder now. Nice to have 2 anyway.

I went to Tractor Supply and got a dewalt 4 1/2" grinder with 5 grinding wheels included for cheaper than a plain grinder. I think it was around $80. It has been a great grinder and I have used and abused it.