Welding Tips and Tricks

Hey all. I'm new to welding. I have been reading about it for years but, have finally decided to finally become a weekend welder since out of necessity. I will be doing exclusively flux-core welding indoors and outdoors. I will be using a 115v 140amps welder. I am set on a fixed shade helmet and was wondering if anybody has a moderately priced quality helmet they would recommend. Thx in advance.

Slash,
You can weld your whole life and never wear out a Fibremetal Pipeliner. If you want a flip front, they make one of those also, although they are heavier than most other helmets.

Len

Thanks Len. I'll check that one out. I was looking at the miller MP-10 and titanium 1600. Any comments on those?

Fernando

Slash,
Problem is once you have a helmet that never wears out, you don't need to try others, so I have very little experience with other passive helmets. I'm sure others here have experience with the helmets you've mentioned and will chime in soon.

Len

Buy the fibre metal pipeliner it's a great one slash, my favorite. So sturdy, nice lens comes with it, and no light comes around or under making for easier images.

The Jackson HSL-100, Miller MP-10, or Fibre-metal Pipeliner are all EXCELLANT helmets.

I own all 3 of them.

I couldn't find the jackson 100 or mp-10 with a flip front. I found a pipeliner with a flip front but, with only a small lens (2x4?)
It was my understanding a larger lens would be better and a flip-front would help protect the actual shade from damage. That is why I was looking at the miller titanium 1600. It has a large shade and large flip front. Is that how it works? The shade is fixed and there is clear plastic on the flip front?

slash8789 wrote:Thanks Len. I'll check that one out. I was looking at the miller MP-10 and titanium 1600. Any comments on those?

Fernando

I have the Miller Performance helmet. It's a good helmet. I wish I'd gone up one model. Miller Elite is the Bentley of helmets, and the high cost of replacing your eyes makes a great helmet a piece of needed safety gear. A great way to make an expensive helmet economical is to take care of it. Get a 6 gallon bucket, keep it in it. Each time you take it off, put it in the bucket. Kill the first person who messes with it. It'll be a deterrent to the would be second person. If you are uncomfortable with killing them, a warning shot volleyed through their brisket works well as a deterrent without being so violent.

slash8789 wrote:I couldn't find the jackson 100 or mp-10 with a flip front. I found a pipeliner with a flip front but, with only a small lens (2x4?)
It was my understanding a larger lens would be better and a flip-front would help protect the actual shade from damage. That is why I was looking at the miller titanium 1600. It has a large shade and large flip front. Is that how it works? The shade is fixed and there is clear plastic on the flip front?

Where on earth would you come up with info like that?

slash8789 wrote:... Is that how it works? The shade is fixed and there is clear plastic on the flip front?

Hmmm, I think you got that a bit backwards?

Ok so if I have it backwards then how does it work?

slash8789 wrote:Ok so if I have it backwards then how does it work?

Your lens goes in the flip front, and your clear lens goes in the helmet.

Many years ago, I bought an inexpensive $30 Jackson helmet with 4X5 lens. Then, a few years ago, I upgraded it when I found an Arc One auto dark module in the bargain bin for $20 at my local welding supply. It was missing the 5 Mohm control pot, so I ordered one from a local electronics supplier. I installed the control knob on the chin area of the helmet for easy access. This helmet has served me well for over 15 years. The auto dark optics are made in Switzerland and attached to the helmet with black RTV rubber adhesive.

slash8789 wrote:Ok so if I have it backwards then how does it work?

Like AKWeldshop mentioned:

Hey,

Here's a video I shot yesterday. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5EAUV5evEKc

At 4:20, you'll see one of my helmets, and know exactly what we're talking about.

I appreciate all that info. I could have sworn tho I have seen helmets with a front lens cover and even Werkspace's red helmet looks like it has a clear lens over the shaded lens. So, are fixed shaded lens helmets only available with front fixed clear lenses and flip ones? Why do they sell front lens clear covers for helmets the like the Miller Elites?

slash8789 wrote:I appreciate all that info. I could have sworn tho I have seen helmets with a front lens cover and even Werkspace's red helmet looks like it has a clear lens over the shaded lens. So, are fixed shaded lens helmets only available with front fixed clear lenses and flip ones? Why do they sell front lens clear covers for helmets the like the Miller Elites?

Every welding lens has to be used with a clear lens.....


That's not funny dude.

I fail to see how I was trying to be funny. I asked a legitimate question since I am new at this. My confusion lay on design of the combination of the shaded lens and the clear lens whether flip front or not but, whatever.

slash8789 wrote:I fail to see how I was trying to be funny. I asked a legitimate question since I am new at this. My confusion lay on design of the combination of the shaded lens and the clear lens whether flip front or not but, whatever.

Ok.

Hold on for an hour.
I went out to my shop and made a quick video on the different helmet.

As soon as it's done uploading to YT,
I'll post it here.

It should clear the mess up.

~John

Here's the vid.

Watch it, cover to cover.




http://youtu.be/eALAxGDQLaQ

You made that video just for me? Man, that was really nice of you. Thank you.

So, I was basically right; there is a clear lens in front of the shaded lens. My question was is there a clear lens that just flips up and down to protect the shaded lens because that is what it looks like on some helmets. Now that I think about it tho, it wouldn't make much sense to just have a flip up clear lens and an unmovable shaded lens. You'd still have to flip up the entire helmet to look at your work after the weld.

I went ahead and ordered a Miller Titanium 1600 #10 fixed shade. It got good reviews and I got it for $30 with a 14-day return policy. Nobody answered this question but, I figured a larger viewing area would be better which the 1600 has.

Thank you for your help. You should probably edit or delete that video since it has your phone number on it. Don't worry I only gave it out to all my former prison psych ward gang affiliates. Hehehe. Just kidding just kidding.

Thanks again. You'll be getting more questions real soon. I'm waiting for my Everlast PowerMig 140E to arrive.

Your thinking is half right. There IS a clear lens in front of the dark filter lens to protect it from sparks and scratches. BUT the two are clipped in one "frame, holder" AND that thing flips up. Taking both the front clear and the shaded lens with it. This reveals another clear lens for grinding and chipping eye protection. Also for helping to position the welder before starting. Hope this helps.

Hi John
Thanks for the video
At 0:45, you got enough welding rods or what? ( And I sure hope they're 7018's and not E6013's - ha ha)

Trev

Welding Mike,

Yeah, I get it now. I'm guessing every single helmet on the market is made this way? From the pictures I see online you would guess that some helmets have a bit of distance between the shaded lens and the clear front lens but, you guys are stating that this is not the case.

Its hard for me to just go out and look at helmets. I live in a small town and the nearest city is an hour away and since I'm ne at this well, there you go. I just hope I made the right choice in welders. I ordered an Everlast PowerMig 140

Clear plastic in front of lense to keep weld spatter off. Cheaper to replace than shaded lense.