Welding Tips and Tricks

First time trying welding. I'm trying to learn tig and have bought everything I need to get started. Here is what I tried:

1/8" mild steel
3/32" 1.5% Lanthanated Electrode, protuding out of a #6 cup about 1/4"
71 amps from the machine with 15 CFH pure argon.
Using High Frequency Start

There was kinda sputter at the start and stuff shot over the piece. At the end the electrode was about 1/2" shorter and balled up inside the cup.

I welcome your advice.

Thank you,
Paul

First thing to check is polarity: you should be set for DCEN (electrode negative) for mild steel. Let us know how it goes!

Seems like my arc length might be too long from what I can look up on my own. What should it be?

Hey Paul.

I agree with what Artie has to say - check your polarity. Also, be sure you have constant and sufficient gas flow. I had a weld go badly wrong once and it was simply a lack of gas that did it. TIG doesn't go slightly wrong when you don't have enough gas, it goes very wrong!

You will find lots of help here, there are wise people who will guide you. Be patient, it's not a fast-moving forum.


Kym

If the polarity is correct ("+" terminal is the ground clamp, "-" terminal is the torch, make sure you're actually getting gas out of the nozzle. The picture looks like what happens when you're not getting gas where it belongs. Or you have a huge leak somewhere sucking in a lot of air when the gas IS flowing.

Steve S

Yeah that's what my tungsten does on my dry rig if I forget to turn on the gas.

Gas issue. That brown soot tells the story.

pmcint01 wrote:Seems like my arc length might be too long from what I can look up on my own. What should it be?

Too long of an arc is common when starting out. Hand -eye coordination is key to keeping a tight arc, that only comes with seat-time. To answer your question, your arc should be so short that you are barely keeping your tungsten out of the puddle. Its hard to watch every aspect of what needs to be done right while tigging so practice one thing at a time. Watch Jodys videos over and over, he does not skip any details and if you listen to him , it will shorten your learning curve. Don't get frustrated, every man here was at the same point you are right now. The world is not going to beat a path to your door because you can tig weld so relax and have fun with it. Ask any of the guys here who tig weld for a living and I bet they tell you they learn something new everyday.

Well my gas works fine, but I had the polarity reversed. Wow does that make a HUGE difference! I managed to put down several "beads," not sure if any of them are any decent. There was still some popping within the base metal should would occasionally shoot spatter and I think it contaminated my electrode. It is balled up and a little shorter.

If the electrode losses its pencil point should you always regrind it?

I'm getting to the age where I need cheaters in my helmet to be able to see close enough. I also go out of my way to get comfortable and support my arm/hand in such a way I can hold a close arc. I will do dry runs to make sure that I can complete the weld bead without my arm or torch cable tripping up on something. Can't believe all the times I've gotten in a hurry and inadvertently touched the tungsten in the weld puddle, at that moment it's all over you have to grind the tungsten.

What my ol teacher used to say, when you contaminate the tungsten, swear then grind it but don't go on with it contaminated.
Life is too short to tig with a mushroom.

"Life is too short to tig with a mushroom."
good one should be with quotes!

pmcint01 wrote:I had the polarity reversed.

Ask me how I knew to check for that. I did it first time out of the gate too.

Some time back Miller had a free download on their website, the Miller TIG Handbook. I got a lot out of reading chapter 2, GTAW Fundamentals, which covers this topic and a lot more: frequency, wave forms, pulse, AC balance. Miller took the Handbook down from their site (they SAID so they could improve it), but not before I saved it- I'd be happy to share it if you'd like to read it. I don't know if this forum's TOS allows this kind of file transfer so maybe PM me your email address?

Miller Tig Guide
http://www.millerwelds.com/pdf/gtawbook.pdf

This one?

When first starting out, yes, regrind any tungsten that accumulates crap. As you develop experience, you'll know by the shape of the arc when you have too much crap to continue. With practice, you'll know when it's too little gunk to stop you from finishing a weld versus enough to have to stop now and grind.

The weld itself will dictate what this grind/continue point is. An x-ray weld will tolerate very little. A weld that must be aesthetically pleasing will also not tolerate much.

Steve S

rick9345 wrote: This one?

No, the TIG Handbook is a bigger publication, about 12 chapters.

Trying to weld up a frame for a welding cart. Making damn ugly welds. Burning holes mostly. Getting rod stuck and contaminatingredients the tungsten. Don't fill like I'm dipping it in. This is so much harder than plate.


Paul

What kind of tube? And can you position it so the joint your trying to weld is flat. It may require that you flip and turn the cart a lot as you build it but you will basically just be making flat welds or but joints and not trying to learn how to vertical up or down for a first project.

It's 1.5" square tubing mild steel 14 ga. I am turning it to avoid going vertically. My welds were so poor I've gone back to just practicing on plate. I can't seem to even to that now as I somehow contaminate my tungsten every time. I can see the tungsten burning up in front of my eyes. I really don't think I dip it in everytime. but maybe.


Thanks,
Paul

Make sure you clean off all the oil and mill flake from the tube. How many amps are you running?

Paul, something is wrong.

Settings, gas, dirty steel? Steel should not be difficult as long as you hold a tight arc and good torch angle. Something is amiss here.


Kym

If you're burning up your tungsten then you have a shielding gas issue. Your tungsten should stay bright and silvery after your post-flow. Check for leaks or bad gas. Report back to us if you can find the problem

I appreciate the help guys. I'm running at 60 amps 3/32 1.5 % lanthanated Tungsten. I just bought a gas lens and corresponding cups. How do I check the gas? I can press the switch on the torch and I hear a hiss. I wonder if this is a problem. The machine I have has a post flow setting which I have to 7 seconds, but I never hear a hiss after I let go of the trigger button.

I clean to bright shiny metal with a flap disk. My angle might be a little sharp if I'm trying to look at the tip, but I have tried it at almost a 90 degree angle and it did not make much of a difference.

Thanks,
Paul

Paul,
Check to be sure that you haven't twisted your collet, if you have they can swell out against the pilot and restrict gas flow. CK wedge collets eliminate this problem, check them out, they basically last forever.

Len

Paul, if your not hearing the gas in post flow then I would start there. I got into this thread late and I am usually too lazy to read back to see what actually transpired but 7 seconds is a good, maybe excessive post flow.You may have your pressure up too high and you are drawing in air and diluting your gas. You need way less gas with a gas lens than a regular collet. Like Len (Braehill) suggested, check your collet, they wear out like anything else does. Also check your teflon ring on your cup and your black o-ring on your back cap. A split ring will include air. Hope you find it...let us know.