Welding Tips and Tricks

I never seen it until I came down here. Granted it is mostly schedule 40, but they will use the wrap around and then go around the pipe with a porta-band and then use a grinder to make the entire bevel.

Where I am from we bevel with our torches and most of us have 75 degree heads. I still free hand on the big stuff if there isn't much and only break out my beveling machine setup if there is a significant quantity of 12" and up. Only really use a grinder to maybe touch up an oops and knock down the land.

Looking into grinding wheel distributorship.

The pieces that come from the shop have a bevel cut on them from the flame table. They have a tri tool for the big stuff. And we use 4-1/2 in grinders with a flap disc for the rest. I don't use the wrap around for a true mark but with practice you can get real close. Or at least a lot closer than most butt weld fittings have to start with.

Some guys, depending on the project, I have seen use an engine lathe and set the angle at x-degrees and get it to be angle. Takes a while but if you don't have any other way and want to work with a lathe it's the way to go. Mostly for soup ins it short stuff though.

Poland308 wrote:The pieces that come from the shop have a bevel cut on them from the flame table. They have a tri tool for the big stuff. And we use 4-1/2 in grinders with a flap disc for the rest. I don't use the wrap around for a true mark but with practice you can get real close. Or at least a lot closer than most butt weld fittings have to start with.

You must get the overseas manufactured egg shaped fittings we get lol

Got some 3 in sch 40 stuff the other day and my 12 fittings were from 5 different countries. It was a mess I spent 2 flap discs and a couple of end grinder flap wheels getting things together.

I prefer lathe cut or from my carbide pipe beveler, but I have done a good bit of it with a grinder. I use a hard disk to knock down the edge then a flapper to grind it. Lay it down and run the grinder the pipe and roll your wrists. Or have your helper spin the pipe if it's on stands. If it's a tig root I'll take a die grinder and clean the inside edge. Should take a few min with a grinder. Not bad. Although 45 seconds with the carbide and it makes it seem awful.

Not for spec but I have always butt together for best fit, tack them together and groove out both pieces at once with grinder then weld. Never had an issue. I did thousands of feet of 12" pipe for pilings that way. We made 40' out of shorter random lengths from 10-20 footers. Never had one fail.

Yep I could see that working real well, but I was talking more about CJP Section IX stuff. I find it amazing that on a job that had hundreds of joints to weld full pen, grinders would be used for full beveling, that is a LOT of freaking grinding.

It certainly is a lot. And you feel it the next day.

We used a Georg Fisher REB 6 for our pipe work which was 95% 316L, schedule 10 and 40. It seems this is a EH Wachs product now.

Now that makes sense to me, I would buy one of those. Don't do alot of SS where I am, but works on CS and I would bet faster than my track torch beveling setups. Probably does almost a machined looking prep I would imagine.

Don't know where from but the shop rented two additional Walchs machines when they had a big prodject.

DLewis0289 wrote:Now that makes sense to me, I would buy one of those. Don't do alot of SS where I am, but works on CS and I would bet faster than my track torch beveling setups. Probably does almost a machined looking prep I would imagine.

That it does, it's a pretty quick cut also