[mbmalone]

I already have a Tombstone AC/DC on permanent loan, so I can't sell it ... but I need a better machine, not any higher ampeage than 250, but a longer duty cycle so I can practice more and an infinite amperage adjustment. I wish I had arc control and I wish I could TIG. I don't care about how it looks, I care about how it welds. I can spend hours cleaning and painting, hammering out dents. I have a used stinger and a ground clamp I can put on it. My back is good, I can load it and I do have a truck and a trailer available for hauling.

I have $200 I can invest, nothing more. Trying to learn at home, with a passion for welding. I would take care of the machine, but it would have to live outside, no shop. Just putting it out there. Maybe some nice old guy wasn't looking to sell, but was looking for a good home for his welder with someone that cares about taking care of it and not selling it for the copper. I have a 220v Single Phase 3-Prong receptacle just off the electrical box outside with a 6OA breaker.

I would be overjoyed to find a vintage (late 60's) Lincoln IdealArc 250 ac/dc which I could later set up with both a 17 series tig torch or even a 20 series water cooled tig torch. If anyone see's something outstanding and under $200, please let me know so my family loaned AC/DC Tombstone could then be returned to it's owner who would also occasionally like to weld something with his own welder.

I have been looking on Craigslist in Baton Rouge, Lafayette and New Orleans
I found this Miller Thunderbolt XL 225/150 AC/DC stick welder for $250 in Lafayette, but I don't have the money. It looks like a good deal, maybe it helps someone. http://lafayette.craigslist.org/tls/4575736589.html

[MinnesotaDave]

Why didn't you buy that Dialarc you found for $200?

[mbmalone]

I forgot where I found that one and I think it was AC only.
I will have to look for it again, not sure where I saw it?

I can't find it ....

Why didn't you buy that Dialarc you found for $200?

[mbmalone]

This is the one I had found. It's 200 miles away in Mobile, Alabama.
Where is the AC/DC switch?
http://mobile.craigslist.org/tls/4507593729.html

Someone else seems to have one in New Orleans, but no photo and no price.
https://neworleans.craigslist.org/bar/4571575292.html

Why didn't you buy that Dialarc you found for $200?

[AKweldshop]

This is the one I had found. It's 200 miles away in Mobile, Alabama.
Where is the AC/DC switch?
http://mobile.craigslist.org/tls/4507593729.html

Someone else seems to have one in New Orleans, but no photo and no price.
https://neworleans.craigslist.org/bar/4571575292.html

Why didn't you buy that Dialarc you found for $200?

Yep,
That Lincoln is AC ONLY.
The AC/Dc ones had a switch in the top right corner.
Just a 300amp buzzbox.

[mbmalone]

I don't want any Buzz boxes.
Sometimes they try to hide the fact that they are AC only welders, they don't clearly state it.

I want a Lincoln IdealArc 250 with an AC/DC switch. I saw a DialArc 250 somewhere, but that thing is just too big. I think it was $300 and a few hours away, looked like someone when off with a sledge hammer.

Yep,
That Lincoln is AC ONLY.
The AC/Dc ones had a switch in the top right corner.
Just a 300amp buzzbox.

[MinnesotaDave]

I don't want any Buzz boxes.
Sometimes they try to hide the fact that they are AC only welders, they don't clearly state it.

I want a Lincoln IdealArc 250 with an AC/DC switch. I saw a DialArc 250 somewhere, but that thing is just too big. I think it was $300 and a few hours away, looked like someone when off with a sledge hammer.

Yep,
That Lincoln is AC ONLY.
The AC/Dc ones had a switch in the top right corner.
Just a 300amp buzzbox.

Don't forget that when you go to haul one, the new model Idealarcs list at 350 lbs - I'd bet the old round tops are gonna be close to that.
The Dialarcs are also in that weight range.

[mbmalone]

Can anyone help identify this welder. I know it's a Lincoln IdealArc of some sort, but can it do DC?
What is that red box on top? What would it be worth?
I'm not looking for another Buzz Box.

[mbmalone]

$300.00 If it is setup for TIG with a footpedal and everything works properly.
I found a deal on a 900lb monster, but I wasn't looking for a monster.

The $300 offer will soon be gone, so this is just for a few days.
Yes, I want to be able to TIG with a HF unit as well as stick. i.e. I can't pay $300 for scratch start.

Michael
Baton Rouge

[MinnesotaDave]

Can anyone help identify this welder. I know it's a Lincoln IdealArc of some sort, but can it do DC?
What is that red box on top? What would it be worth?
I'm not looking for another Buzz Box.

From what I'm seeing, it's the AC model only. I wouldn't waste time on it since you want a full featured, fully functioning welder.

[MinnesotaDave]

$300.00 If it is setup for TIG with a footpedal and everything works properly.
I found a deal on a 900lb monster, but I wasn't looking for a monster.

The $300 offer will soon be gone, so this is just for a few days.
Yes, I want to be able to TIG with a HF unit as well as stick. i.e. I can't pay $300 for scratch start.

Michael
Baton Rouge

What's wrong with 900 lbs of awesome?
Already has built in high freq, a pedal, the torch, a water cooler, cables.....$300 is a steal for all that and a working welder.

In my opinion

[mbmalone]

I did buy the welder 900 lbs of awesome for $300.00 down in New Orleans. It was heavier than what I had counted on with what I believe is a 40 gallon non-detachable cooling tank, so I didn't know if I would make it home to Baton Rouge. We almost drained out all the old coolant and were forced to cut the fenders off the trailer.

Everything is supposed to be working, but I was only able to test the stick welder a little before taking the cables apart. I have been working on getting the cable situation straightened out. This thing was not very well taken care of and I didn't feel safe with the way the cables were with all those bare and melted sections cut out of the cable insulation. They are a lot shorter now. Bare strands of wire were sticking out all over

I will have plenty of questions, but I've been reading through the forum and taking a few pictures. I called Miller and they had a time trying to figure out the model. I'm still not sure of the year, as it has a "K" serial number and the original Airco flowmeter, footpedal and even the electrode holder which looks like an antique. I don't think it will last long the way I burn those electrodes down to 1" nubs, so I took it off.

[AKweldshop]

Glad you got the machine!

Here are the best stingers you can buy.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ITEM-194-Weldin ... 2a38182747


http://www.ebay.com/itm/ITEM-195-Weldin ... 2a38185adc

[mbmalone]

thank you... the AC/DC tombstone has been returned and is currently up for sale, along with 2 AC welders.

I have a couple of old electrode holders I had previously saved from the trash bin that I'm going to use for now. They are the same style. I'm still trying to repair these leads and then I'll have the stick side of the machine running, probably tomorrow.

The test beads seemed fine once I let the "hammer down" inside the machine's lower cover panel.
I must have a different model than MinnesotaDave.



Michael

Glad you got the machine!

Here are the best stingers you can buy.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ITEM-194-Weldin ... 2a38182747


http://www.ebay.com/itm/ITEM-195-Weldin ... 2a38185adc

[AKweldshop]

Thats good that your selling it.

I haven't had a chance to use the one of my buddy's, you know, waiting on me is like waiting on retirement...

I prolly wouldn't like it anyway.

I'm a picky one when it comes to stick arcs....


Good luck with the machine and lets see them 1/4" 7018s...

[MinnesotaDave]

That's called the Balancing Resistor Switch.

[mbmalone]

Miller sent me the manual "iom340_ K202691-L230930.pdf" which shows a Miller.
My Serial begins with a "K", but I still don't know if we are the same age.

I'm glad I had the machine set right. I photographed my test bead settings on the machine for 1/8" E6010 and was wondering how close they were to what they should be? I didn't know how to set the hot start at all for 6010 and 7018.

I appreciate that attachment. It was very confusing considering what I had been reading in the forum. The guy I bought it from never stick welded.

I photographed the instructions he gave me.

[MinnesotaDave]

The start amperage (smaller knob) sets the current for starting the arc.

Turn it higher than your welding current and it's hot start.
Turn it lower than your welding current and you've got a soft start.

It generally lasts about 2/3 of a second. (The manuals say 40 cycles)

Take a few pics of the faceplate and under the lid to make it easier to give info.

Here is where I have manuals stored for download, a tech manual is included.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/7ijbgx67wuq6ivd/sYvAlvq_LC

[mbmalone]

I took this picture of the serial # but still haven't been able to figure out which model year.
It actually took me a long time to find that sucker, it was hidden. I have the fuse located on the left side of the faceplate.

So with the Hot Start, it should be positioned almost exactly on the same relative number as the main amperage control, just a little higher for a little Hot Start? I was trying to set it and the start was changing so I know it works, but I still haven't gotten it set just right. I was just trying to set it for some 1/8" crap 6010's and some good Lincoln 3/32" 7018 MR's which have been heavily humidified. I plan to get a pizza oven in the near future. I saw a couple of them, but they were too small for 14" electrodes. I almost bought a Betty Crocker oven for kids. The door doesn't open, you just slide the pie in one side and push it out the other side, but I was too embarrassed because they know I don't have kids.

I have the rods currently stored in the attic, which is 1000 degrees F in S. Louisiana in the summertime.

I also had some electrical problems today, sparking and arcing off the pump switch with the wires just hanging everywhere, without any bracket. The welder was supposedly in excellent condition, but it wasn't exactly like that, honestly. You know how that goes. I've been trying to fix a few issues and I hope I didn't blow any fuses. The welder wasn't even running, but that 110 plug on the back sure was still live. I have removed all the TIG equipment for now. I also think that whatever is in the cooling tank is a powerful gnat attractant. The previous owner told me he didn't know what kind of liquid was in there, when I asked about TIG coolant. He didn't care about this 900lbs of awesome. He was a sheetmetal worker and I think he just used it for small projects on the weekends. I wish he had kept the welding leads from being all gouged, melted and cut. I think I have them pretty safe, now. I cut out the worst pieces and used a ton of electrical tape. Some of the connecters had welded together and had to be cut off and could not be reused. The insulation was literally falling apart in my hands.

My TIG torch looks pretty good, but the cover was totally melted and could not even be zipped. I took it all apart and the leads and water lines inside seem to be in good shape. I will have to find another cover. I have about 6 pure tungsten 3/32" electrodes and a #7 cup and the torch is a water cooled Radnor 18. I want to try aluminum TIG because that's what Jody recommended for beginners. I don't have an Argon tank yet, so I can't pursue that. I don't even know what a good price would be on a used tank with some gas still left in it? I found one, but don't know what I should offer. Someone tried to sell me a Nitrogen tank for $50 and someone else a C25. I knew I couldn't use those. I learned that you could hook Nitrogen up to your plasma cutter (if you have one) and cut aluminum cleanly without contaminating it. I thought that was cool.

The start amperage (smaller knob) sets the current for starting the arc.

Turn it higher than your welding current and it's hot start.
Turn it lower than your welding current and you've got a soft start.

It generally lasts about 2/3 of a second. (The manuals say 40 cycles)