Hi Team,
Nick here from New Zealand, just a beginner and a wannabe artist.
I have bought a Strata Advance 200 AC/DC Tig Welder and have searched extensively for any information on set-ups, but nothing out there in YouTube Land etc. The manufacturers literature is a joke.
Any Board Members have this machine?, as I'd really like to converse with you over the various ranges of option available so I can better understand & use this piece of kit, as I'm getting a little frustrated with it and myself at the moment.
Any help or advice on where I see any videos would be a great help.
Many thanks,
Nick.
Manual is here: https://www.strata.co.nz/site/stratawel ... Manual.pdf
What setup questions do you have?
What setup questions do you have?
Hi Weldmonger,
Many thanks for your reply and the Manufacturers literature, which did come with the machine.
I'm trying to get the right set-up to weld some 1.6 mm stainless steel, any suggestions would be great help, even if it gets me into the ball park area where I can adjust accordingly.
Are you familiar with this machine?
Kind regards,
Nick.
Many thanks for your reply and the Manufacturers literature, which did come with the machine.
I'm trying to get the right set-up to weld some 1.6 mm stainless steel, any suggestions would be great help, even if it gets me into the ball park area where I can adjust accordingly.
Are you familiar with this machine?
Kind regards,
Nick.
Not specifically, but most every TIG machine shares heaps of commonality.
Stainless material that size can likely be welded using the formula of 1amp/0.00 of material thickness. That would yield amperage about 60. But for stainless, you can then run about 20% lower as a general rule. So I’d start at 45 amps, bump up 3-5 amps between test welds to determine the correct amperage for your situation.
Now for the fun stuff... stainless wants lots of argon coverage. Use a gas lens. Period. Set your argon CFH to 2x the cup diameter minimum. A #8 cup minimum, 18-20cfh (I realize your regulator may be in LpM, so do the math. 100% pure argon always for TIG.
Stainless wants to puddle quickly, then move! You risk cooking stainless if you creep up on the amps. You will notice this when your welds look dull, Grey, and grainy.
Are you using a pedal, torch switch, momentary switch? Some pictures of your torch and the front of the machine. And some test welds will help get you dialed in.
Stainless material that size can likely be welded using the formula of 1amp/0.00 of material thickness. That would yield amperage about 60. But for stainless, you can then run about 20% lower as a general rule. So I’d start at 45 amps, bump up 3-5 amps between test welds to determine the correct amperage for your situation.
Now for the fun stuff... stainless wants lots of argon coverage. Use a gas lens. Period. Set your argon CFH to 2x the cup diameter minimum. A #8 cup minimum, 18-20cfh (I realize your regulator may be in LpM, so do the math. 100% pure argon always for TIG.
Stainless wants to puddle quickly, then move! You risk cooking stainless if you creep up on the amps. You will notice this when your welds look dull, Grey, and grainy.
Are you using a pedal, torch switch, momentary switch? Some pictures of your torch and the front of the machine. And some test welds will help get you dialed in.
hello fellow kiwi.Nick.T wrote:Hi Team,
Nick here from New Zealand, just a beginner and a wannabe artist.
I have bought a Strata Advance 200 AC/DC Tig Welder and have searched extensively for any information on set-ups, but nothing out there in YouTube Land etc. The manufacturers literature is a joke.
Any Board Members have this machine?, as I'd really like to converse with you over the various ranges of option available so I can better understand & use this piece of kit, as I'm getting a little frustrated with it and myself at the moment.
Any help or advice on where I see any videos would be a great help.
Many thanks,
Nick.
the adjustments on them are pretty standard.
you mention your a beginner, how much welding have you done?
have you tig welding mild steel?
just trying to get a handle on your experience level, as thin stainless is one of the hardest thing to do (short of exotic materials).
i think its probably a case of learning what all the functions are. the manuals are not a beginners instructions.
some of the BOC manuals have a lot of beginner information in them. but otherwise plenty of utube video's around that go through all the adjustments.
tweak it until it breaks
BillE.Dee
- BillE.Dee
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Weldmonger
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Posts:
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Joined:Mon Nov 27, 2017 8:53 pm
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Location:Pennsylvania (Northeast corner)
Hello Nick and welcome from the US.
If you can explain to all of us what your experience level is, it would help to provide you with direction. First, you need to "learn" your machine. I know the instructions that come with many of them is almost an instruction manual...but it will help you understand what the functions of the controls do. I did a quick search of your machine and appears to me that all of the numerical settings are controlled by one dial....typical of newer machines. Learn how to jump around that squiggly line and change the settings.
If you can explain to all of us what your experience level is, it would help to provide you with direction. First, you need to "learn" your machine. I know the instructions that come with many of them is almost an instruction manual...but it will help you understand what the functions of the controls do. I did a quick search of your machine and appears to me that all of the numerical settings are controlled by one dial....typical of newer machines. Learn how to jump around that squiggly line and change the settings.
BillE.Dee & tweake,
Thanks for your replies, and straight off I now understand that I've been using way too much Amperage.
I did evening classes in the UK about 15 years back, covered Arc, MIG, TIG and Gas over 24 evenings with a great Tutor, but use it or loose it...so I'm getting back into it now. I have a foot pedal with the Strata.
Yes it is a one knob digital interface. To limit the HAZ I want to pulse weld stainless, to try and keep the heat/ clean-up to a minimum for the sculptural stuff I have in mind.
I've seen two options for this, one with some really nasty chemical pickling and the other with and 'electric-carbon' brush which looks awesome, but I don't imagine will be cheap, but probably better than a dose of cancer from the shitty chemicals though!
Thanks for your interest.
Thanks for your replies, and straight off I now understand that I've been using way too much Amperage.
I did evening classes in the UK about 15 years back, covered Arc, MIG, TIG and Gas over 24 evenings with a great Tutor, but use it or loose it...so I'm getting back into it now. I have a foot pedal with the Strata.
Yes it is a one knob digital interface. To limit the HAZ I want to pulse weld stainless, to try and keep the heat/ clean-up to a minimum for the sculptural stuff I have in mind.
I've seen two options for this, one with some really nasty chemical pickling and the other with and 'electric-carbon' brush which looks awesome, but I don't imagine will be cheap, but probably better than a dose of cancer from the shitty chemicals though!
Thanks for your interest.
I too like pulse on stainless. I use a pulse frequency of 1.2pps, 50% peak, 15% background. For your material (0.063) I would suggest 65-70 amps (remember you're only at that amperage for 50% or 1.2 seconds). Tinker with the amperage based upon your outcome and filler usage. A smaller filler is better on stainless (0.045 or even 0.030).
To remove any color from your weld afterwards, you can immediately brush the weld with a clean stainless wire brush or scotchbrite pad. Works a treat.
The larger cups (#10, #12 or even #16) work best. 22-30CFH for your argon flow. You will notice a marked improvement in the weld appearance as a result.
If at all possible, you can also apply SolarFlux (it's a paste-like substance) to the backside of flat weld joints to prevent oxidation from welding. This is essentially a "back purge" when a tube or closed joint is not possible.
To remove any color from your weld afterwards, you can immediately brush the weld with a clean stainless wire brush or scotchbrite pad. Works a treat.
The larger cups (#10, #12 or even #16) work best. 22-30CFH for your argon flow. You will notice a marked improvement in the weld appearance as a result.
If at all possible, you can also apply SolarFlux (it's a paste-like substance) to the backside of flat weld joints to prevent oxidation from welding. This is essentially a "back purge" when a tube or closed joint is not possible.
as above, good argon coverage helps a lot. however here in NZ we get raped with gas prices, especially hobby sized.
the pickling paste works well. its not to bad to use, just be sensible.
i have the sandvick paste and neutralizer. the neutraliser is handy so you can make it safe before you move it to wash it down. the cleaning machines are really expensive. probably similar to what you paid for the welder.
the pickling paste works well. its not to bad to use, just be sensible.
i have the sandvick paste and neutralizer. the neutraliser is handy so you can make it safe before you move it to wash it down. the cleaning machines are really expensive. probably similar to what you paid for the welder.
tweak it until it breaks