Welding Tips and Tricks

Hi. I'm Ray C and I'm new to MIG but am pretty advanced at screwing-up stick and TIG welding.

I talked myself into getting a MIG unit and went with the HF/Vulcan MIGMAX 215. It seems pretty nice but I have nothing to compare it to. I manually mapped-out the IPM speeds and usually use manual settings instead of the automatic feature. After some practice and a few small projects it's running glitch-free. I joined-up here because I've been enjoying Jody's videos for a long time. Also, I was hoping to see if anyone else here had the MIGMAX 215.


See you around...

Ray

Welcome to the forum, Ray. You may be the first member to get a Vulcan, certainly among the first. Sure looks like HF has stepped up their game! I hope it continues to deliver for you.

Hey there Artie... Thanks for the nod.

I wrote-up a few words about the new Vulcan over in this thread: http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... 30&t=12222


Ray

Welcome to the forum, Ray.

There are some interesting reviews/comments about that machine on welding web. One guy over there did a video review and likes it. Terry (Shovelon) who is a long time WW member was a beta tester for the new vulcan welders. He said he couldn't kill the tig welder, and had the torch actually smoking but the machine never failed. Regarding the migmax, he said it was a no brainer, and he shared pics of some of the fabrication work they did with it at his company. On the other hand, I bought an Omnipro and it was defective. I got my money back no sweat, but they are now out of stock everywhere around here, so I couldn't get a replacement. I am guessing they did a limited production run to see how they would be accepted. not sure.

I think my Lincoln SP135 is having problems driving the wire with its mostly plastic drive assembly. I would like to replace it with a more powerful unit that can run on 220.

Has anyone tried out the new HF OmniPro 220? I have seen several reviews on YouTube but none have included any etch and stain tests to check the penetration.

Thanks,
Fred

FredR wrote:I think my Lincoln SP135 is having problems driving the wire with its mostly plastic drive assembly. I would like to replace it with a more powerful unit that can run on 220.

Has anyone tried out the new HF OmniPro 220? I have seen several reviews on YouTube but none have included any etch and stain tests to check the penetration.

Thanks,
Fred

Fred - etch will not prove whether a machine is capable of a good weld, it proves whether a Welder knows what he’s doing. Even with a budget machine, you can weld properly. Yes, it may take multiple passes, beveling edges, and such, but it can be done if you know what you’re doing.

Having said all that, the more expensive machines generally help with advanced features, programmed settings, and heavier duty cycles/opwer capabilities. But they still require a competent operator to get proper results.

A decision for buying a H/F welder should be you’re intended use, your tolerance for possible downtime, and your budget. If it’s a garage machine, used infrequently, purely for around the house stuff, it may well a sound investment. If you plan to earn money with it, maybe not. It’s a bit early in the products lifecycle to have real data on durability, service, returns, and repairs. But that only matters for those who “burn to earn”.

So have a go, and keep us informed of your experience!

Thanks Jody,

I went to the local Lincoln dealer and purchased ten new 0.030 tips as well as a wire lube/cleaner cartridge that fits over the wire right before the drive. I mentioned the issue to the salesman and he asked me if I bought the SP135 from a Lincoln dealer or a box store. It was bought from Home Depot and he told me they are not the same as those bought from a Lincoln dealer and hinted the drive may be weaker then theirs. This is the first I have heard Lincoln does this. Anyone else know if this is the case?

After cleaning out the line with compressed air, replacing the tip and adding in the lube/cleaner cartridge it seems to be feeding better and much more like it does with the 0.023 wire.

A polish and etch of the best looking welds shows poor penetration and LOF in several places on 1/4" thick coupons. Based on the chart inside the door and the 1 Amp/mil guideline I am expecting more than it can do....I better practice with my ( (I love this machine!!!) Everlast ProTIG 250EX and use TIG or go back to stick welding with it.

Or, buy a bigger MIG machine!

FredR wrote:Thanks Jody,

I went to the local Lincoln dealer and purchased ten new 0.030 tips as well as a wire lube/cleaner cartridge that fits over the wire right before the drive. I mentioned the issue to the salesman and he asked me if I bought the SP135 from a Lincoln dealer or a box store. It was bought from Home Depot and he told me they are not the same as those bought from a Lincoln dealer and hinted the drive may be weaker then theirs. This is the first I have heard Lincoln does this. Anyone else know if this is the case?

After cleaning out the line with compressed air, replacing the tip and adding in the lube/cleaner cartridge it seems to be feeding better and much more like it does with the 0.023 wire.

A polish and etch of the best looking welds shows poor penetration and LOF in several places on 1/4" thick coupons. Based on the chart inside the door and the 1 Amp/mil guideline I am expecting more than it can do....I better practice with my ( (I love this machine!!!) Everlast ProTIG 250EX and use TIG or go back to stick welding with it.

Or, buy a bigger MIG machine!

If this was addressed to me, I am not Jody. The title of "Weldmonger" is a member status, not his moniker for his business.

Anyway, to your point of LOF after the etch, two things come to mind:
1. LOF and poor penetration can easily be attributed to the user as well as the machine. So for the sake of argument, lets agree the User (you) is not the problem. The guidance of the machine's door chart is not terribly reliable. Unless you run a true amperage/voltage reading at the tip, you won't know for certain what the machine is actually doing. Better you focus on reading the puddle, and adjust the parameters as you go than rely on a "chart".
2. Never trust a machine's ratings; trust your experience. Trust your eyes, but etch to prove what you think you see. If you're getting poor penetration with a MIG, slow down, or crank up the voltage. If these changes don't resolve or improve the results, then have the machine reviewed at a repair shop. Its possible its fluctuating too greatly while welding and not holding a steady voltage. Something to always be aware of.

Remember this too, everyone welds differently and nearly every machine behaves slightly differently too. Throw in wire/rod brands, and theres another difference that effects the results. Of course the metal counts too. My point is theres a lot going on when you weld. The best way to get it sorted out is sample welds on the metal of the day. A few practice runs, a cut and etch, prove what you're doing, then weld away! Its why MIG is a tricky process. Can look great, but be suspect beneath the surface. Takes lots of experience to get it right every time.

You never did indicate what thickness metal you were welding on with your 135? It may be the thickness is the limit (or very near) of the machine's capabilities, especially at 120v. Personally, a 120v MIG is only practical for gauge sheet metal, nothing of any real heft. Just not enough heat in the box to get it done in a single pass. My opinion.

I have a project that requires welding two 14 foot rails that have a 1/4" by 1" X 1" angle iron on top of a 1/8" by 2" X 5" for each rail. The angle iron is mounted like an upside down "V" and is the track for a "V" caster. It is for the bed of DIY wood cutting bandsaw.

I will be using 1" tack welds every 6" on both bottom edges of the upside down "V" to mount it to the 2" by 5" box frame. I am not sure I can get what I need from the SP135 or I may have to go to stick.
This a picture of an old one I made:

Fred - with your unit, I’d at least run 0.30 wire with that material. You could also run Flux Core (DCEN) and probably get good results too. Even with 120v and 0.24 wire, for the strength you’ll need, you can probably do it. Use a push angle, slightly back from 90* to get a good fill.

Welcome to the forum.