[JayWal]

The newer Evo saws have a 3 position vise for that reason. You can move it towards you in 1" increments i believe. It does help quite a bit.

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[Oscar]

The newer Evo saws have a 3 position vise for that reason. You can move it towards you in 1" increments i believe. It does help quite a bit.

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SOLD!

[Oscar]

I liked the Diablo blade so much I invested in some extras. The 72 tooth and an extra 90 tooth blade.

[homeboy]

[quote="Oscar"]I liked the Diablo blade so much I invested in some extras. The 72 tooth and an extra 90 tooth blade.
Have you tried it on stainless steel yet?

[Oscar]

I liked the Diablo blade so much I invested in some extras. The 72 tooth and an extra 90 tooth blade.
Have you tried it on stainless steel yet?

Sorry, I don't have any stainless steel. Well I do, it's a 3" solid round bar, but I need it in the dimensions it is currently in, so I can't sacrifice it.

[JayWal]

I liked the Diablo blade so much I invested in some extras. The 72 tooth and an extra 90 tooth blade.
Have you tried it on stainless steel yet?

Wondered about that too. Evo does sell blades rated specifically for stainless, I've wondered what the difference is. They are 90 tooth vs their 68 tooth mild steel blades. Maybe thats the only difference.

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[homeboy]

I liked the Diablo blade so much I invested in some extras. The 72 tooth and an extra 90 tooth blade.
Have you tried it on stainless steel yet?

Wondered about that too. Evo does sell blades rated specifically for stainless, I've wondered what the difference is. They are 90 tooth vs their 68 tooth mild steel blades. Maybe thats the only difference.

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A while back I was looking for a dry cut blade that would stand up to stainless for a friend but without much luck. I have the Diablo blades but never work with stainless to try it out. It would be interesting to hear about others experience.

[eelman308]

So quick question.....does one need a different blade for : Thick steel, thinner steel, and aluminum. I know stainless is it's own critter.

On a YT. video for the Evo saw, they cut a railroad rail. Not sure what blade they were using. Looked like the one that came with the unit.

[eelman308]

Cutting the rail

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=icqS0SVBHf4

[Oscar]

So quick question.....does one need a different blade for : Thick steel, thinner steel, and aluminum. I know stainless is it's own critter.

On a YT. video for the Evo saw, they cut a railroad rail. Not sure what blade they were using. Looked like the one that came with the unit.

The 90-tooth Diablo blade is rated to cut stainless. For mild steel up to 1/4" wall. I'd say that's pretty darn good for a blade that is rated for "thin" metals.



the 72 tooth is rated to ½ " wall thickness on pipe tube, and up to 1" on solid and 2" on threaded rod.

For aluminum, you do need a different blade because of the tooth rake angle I believe it is called. On most metal cutting blades, the teeth have a 0° angle, but aluminum needs a negative angle, so it's the complete opposite of what one would see on a wood cutting blade where it a has a positive rake. The negative rake is there to help the tooth not load up with aluminum as it is being "cut" out.

[Gligor]

Sorry to interrupt, but I am just curious what is the lowest RPM that these things will work. I have very powerful low speed saw that runs with coolant. Right now I'm using hss blade with small teeth and cuts bar stock mild steel like butter. But I have intention to cut stainless, and I don't think that the hss blade will do very well on it (not for long anyway). That's the reason i want to switch to carbide teeth blade, but I don't feel like buying 150 dollar blade just to find out that doesn't work on my machine.
My saw has 2 speeds. The low speed is below 100 rpm, the fast doesn't exceed 250rpm (those numbers are just by feel, the plate with the specifications is gone, but I think I can measure it somehow)

[Oscar]

Thats too slow because of the low tooth count, compared to a true cold cutting blade. I dint know what the actual minimum is, but im pretty sure it is more than 250rpm

[BugHunter]

My 14" cold cut saw is 1400rpm, just fyi

[Gligor]

Mine is something like this, not the same but pretty close, and the coolant runs trough the guard of the blade and the blade itself. I'm wondering if the HSS blade will cut stainless. In theory it will, but I don't know for how long, because these HSS blades aren't cheap here. Any experiences?

Screenshot_20210120_000439.jpg (97.85 KiB) Viewed 6080 times

[Oscar]

My 14" cold cut saw is 1400rpm, just fyi

"cold" as I interpret it as "coolant flowing"?

[BugHunter]

No, same saw as you have, the dry cut saw from Evo.

I don't know about cutting stainless or tool steel with a high speed steel blade, even with coolant. Those would have to go very very slow. I'm not sure 125 RPMs is slow enough.

[J.Pierce]

No, same saw as you have, the dry cut saw from Evo.

I don't know about cutting stainless or tool steel with a high speed steel blade, even with coolant. Those would have to go very very slow. I'm not sure 125 RPMs is slow enough.

I've seen stainless and tool steel cut with HSS blades in a cold saw, but the RPMs had to only be in the double digits, under 100 for sure. I don't know what the advantage of doing so is, or what the blade life is though.

[Gligor]

No, same saw as you have, the dry cut saw from Evo.

I don't know about cutting stainless or tool steel with a high speed steel blade, even with coolant. Those would have to go very very slow. I'm not sure 125 RPMs is slow enough.

I've seen stainless and tool steel cut with HSS blades in a cold saw, but the RPMs had to only be in the double digits, under 100 for sure. I don't know what the advantage of doing so is, or what the blade life is though.

I tried to measure my cold saw speed more precise. The first speed is about 40-50 RPM. The second speed is around 90-100 rpms.

[homeboy]

Quickest way to knock teeth off of a dry cut blade is to contact the material at under the rated rpm. Don't ask!

[BugHunter]

I tried to measure my cold saw speed more precise. The first speed is about 40-50 RPM. The second speed is around 90-100 rpms.

That sounds like your saw is specifically intended for a high speed steel blade. I wouldn't mind having one like that.

[J.Pierce]

I tried to measure my cold saw speed more precise. The first speed is about 40-50 RPM. The second speed is around 90-100 rpms.

That sounds like your saw is specifically intended for a high speed steel blade. I wouldn't mind having one like that.

Do you end up with a lower cost per cut with HSS, or improved cut quality in some way?

[Gligor]

Do you end up with a lower cost per cut with HSS, or improved cut quality in some way?

The cut quality is flawless, the cutting time is very short, the blade produces around 800-1000 cuts before it needs to be resharpened. One blade can be resharpened many times. The downside is that it doesn't like thin mild steel tubing, it deforms it (or i don't know how to cut them).
My intention is to cut stainless, but I don't want to take a gamble with the blade. Anyway, I don't think I have another choice, so I'll try to cut some stainless and hopefully don't damage the blade.

[J.Pierce]

Do you end up with a lower cost per cut with HSS, or improved cut quality in some way?

The cut quality is flawless, the cutting time is very short, the blade produces around 800-1000 cuts before it needs to be resharpened. One blade can be resharpened many times. The downside is that it doesn't like thin mild steel tubing, it deforms it (or i don't know how to cut them).
My intention is to cut stainless, but I don't want to take a gamble with the blade. Anyway, I don't think I have another choice, so I'll try to cut some stainless and hopefully don't damage the blade.

Interesting, thank you for the information.
Let us know how the stainless cutting works.

[Gligor]

Interesting, thank you for the information.
Let us know how the stainless cutting works.

I will, but it's going to take a while. Now I'm renovating my grandfather's workshop to start business there, but the weather is very bad here, and the build stopped.
Anyway, if it's going to work, I think that it will work on thicker tubing or bar stock stainless.
I was also wondering what is the real advantage on this machine compared to bandsaw. They are in the same price range (more or less). With the bandsaw you can cut thin, thick, bar stock, different metals, and you can cut larger size tubing. With the cold saw you are limited to thick wall tubing or bar stock with smaller size (diameter). Sorry I went topic off

[BugHunter]

At first I thought the biggest Advantage was being able to switch from a 45 to a 90 without all the rigmarole that I have to go through on my bandsaw. Getting the fence Square again is not so easy. At least not if you are really fussy about it being on 90 degrees.

Now that I've had my dry cut saw for a while, I find it really has countless advantages over my other saws. It's faster, there is no coolant to deal with. The cut is an order of magnitude nicer. Honestly it is as nice as a ground finish. Nothing ever gets hot. 1 Speed Works for everything. I find myself doing projects that I would have avoided in the past, simply because I can do the 90s and 45 so quickly and so effortlessly it actually makes building things more fun. I dreaded the time I had to spend at the band saw waiting for parts to cut.