Hi,
I am an absolute noob. I have always been interested in welding, and have finally taken the plunge to see if I like it - so far so good!
I bought an inexpensive machine: BestArc 145A MIG Welder. It does gas and gasless MIG, Stick and lift TIG. So far I've just played around with flux core MIG, welding "coupons". Most of my welds are really pitiful, but I am slowly improving.
I was thinking of buying an inexpensive plasma cutter - taking advantage of the "black Friday" discounts. Do I absolutely NEED a plasma cutter? No, but at some point I'll have to cut up some steel into pieces needed for a welding project. There are so many machines to choose from, it's kind of overwhelming. I'm looking at a BestArc BTC500DP. Both "7GEN" and "10GEN" models are available at a hefty discount. (https://www.amazon.com/bestarc-BTC500DP ... R3YLC?th=1)
I have watched a few YouTube reviews and they speak well of both of these models. I would generally assume the the newer 10GEN would be "better" (have better features), but honestly, I don't know enough to even appreciate the differences between these two models - or any other models, for that matter.
If anyone can provide any guidance, it would be very much appreciated. Thanks!
- Blaise
i wouldn't bother with a plasma cutter. a grinder will do everything you need. far more important things to get before plasma cutters.
also for learning welding, i highly recommend starting with stick. its not as hard as you think and once you get reasonable with that, it makes learning mig and tig a whole lot easier.
also for learning welding, i highly recommend starting with stick. its not as hard as you think and once you get reasonable with that, it makes learning mig and tig a whole lot easier.
tweak it until it breaks
As for your flux core welds looking bad, you need to determine if the machine automatically switches the polarity to DCEN for flux core. MIG and Stick are DCEP usually, though some Stick rods do run on DCEN.
The reason I’m asking is you stated the machine was inexpensive, so the built-in switching is not always guaranteed.
I’m with Tweake, get 5# box of 7018 rods and start padding beads! Use as thick a piece of steel coupon as you can lay your hands. Get a bucket of water and set it beside you. Weld 2-3 beads. Chip off the slag, then drop the coupon in the water to chill it. Pull it out, dry it off, and weld some more. If you don’t cool the metal, your beads will start getting pretty wonky and the coupon will curl badly.
The reason I’m asking is you stated the machine was inexpensive, so the built-in switching is not always guaranteed.
I’m with Tweake, get 5# box of 7018 rods and start padding beads! Use as thick a piece of steel coupon as you can lay your hands. Get a bucket of water and set it beside you. Weld 2-3 beads. Chip off the slag, then drop the coupon in the water to chill it. Pull it out, dry it off, and weld some more. If you don’t cool the metal, your beads will start getting pretty wonky and the coupon will curl badly.
Hey, thanks for the responses!
I appreciate the advice. I had picked up a 5# box of 6011 rods when I bought the welder, and I played with those a bit ... it didn't go well
I would touch the rod to the work piece and it sparked an arc and then went out. This happened several times, and then the rod got stuck to the piece. I wiggled it and pulled it off and tried again. same thing. Tried again and the rod got very stuck! Out of curiosity, I held the trigger (2T) and instead of coming loose when wiggling, the rod got red hot along its entire length and bent into an "S" shape!
OK, I won't do that again! I picked up a box of 7018 and will give that a try when I get a chance.
I'm thinking that the arc might have kept going out because I got a bit startled when the arc started and moved the rod just far enough from the piece to extinguish the arc.
Just guessing here, but I will definitely try again!
Thanks again for the feedback!
I appreciate the advice. I had picked up a 5# box of 6011 rods when I bought the welder, and I played with those a bit ... it didn't go well
I would touch the rod to the work piece and it sparked an arc and then went out. This happened several times, and then the rod got stuck to the piece. I wiggled it and pulled it off and tried again. same thing. Tried again and the rod got very stuck! Out of curiosity, I held the trigger (2T) and instead of coming loose when wiggling, the rod got red hot along its entire length and bent into an "S" shape!
OK, I won't do that again! I picked up a box of 7018 and will give that a try when I get a chance.
I'm thinking that the arc might have kept going out because I got a bit startled when the arc started and moved the rod just far enough from the piece to extinguish the arc.
Just guessing here, but I will definitely try again!
Thanks again for the feedback!
I'm such a noob - the only thing I know is which end of the torch to hold ... I think
It takes a bit of time to become comfortable starting stick rods. The sparking has an ingrained habit of “short circuiting” response in people.
You might try lighting them up this way:
Move to the end of the piece, lay the side of the rod on the edge (the thickness of the piece you’re practicing on) and the slowly raise the rod until the tip barely brushes the flat surface. Expect it to light up, use your other hand to slide the rod between your fingers very lightly and then just slowly move along the path of travel.
Between welds, look at the end of the rod. There will be a hard film of slag on the rod. That needs to be cleaned off for easier restarts. Use a scrap file and just sweep the rod once or twice to get back to bare filler with the outside slag in tact.
If you post some pictures of your welder, including the screens when you struggle, perhaps someone can offer adjustment advice to help you out. And indicate what size filler, rod, or wire diameter when posting for advice.
You might try lighting them up this way:
Move to the end of the piece, lay the side of the rod on the edge (the thickness of the piece you’re practicing on) and the slowly raise the rod until the tip barely brushes the flat surface. Expect it to light up, use your other hand to slide the rod between your fingers very lightly and then just slowly move along the path of travel.
Between welds, look at the end of the rod. There will be a hard film of slag on the rod. That needs to be cleaned off for easier restarts. Use a scrap file and just sweep the rod once or twice to get back to bare filler with the outside slag in tact.
If you post some pictures of your welder, including the screens when you struggle, perhaps someone can offer adjustment advice to help you out. And indicate what size filler, rod, or wire diameter when posting for advice.
cheap multi welders do not always work with 6011. your problems could easily be the machine. i have one thats much the same. an easy rod to start with, which works well on cheap machines, is 6013.
what did you have the rod in?
stingers don't have triggers and 2T is a mig function.
could you post a picture of your setup please.
tweak it until it breaks
@tweake Yeah, you're right. I mixed myself up a bit 
... I also played with .030 flux core, and I was thinking about that when I said I held the trigger. When the stick was stuck I just kind of watched it. I guess the right thing to do when a rod sticks is to open the stinger to release the rod (and break the circuit).
Sorry for the confusion. I'll post a pic of my setup. Probably can't do that until Wednesday.
Thanks so much for your help.
... I also played with .030 flux core, and I was thinking about that when I said I held the trigger. When the stick was stuck I just kind of watched it. I guess the right thing to do when a rod sticks is to open the stinger to release the rod (and break the circuit).Sorry for the confusion. I'll post a pic of my setup. Probably can't do that until Wednesday.
Thanks so much for your help.
I'm such a noob - the only thing I know is which end of the torch to hold ... I think