Metal cutting - oxyfuel cutting, plasma cutting, machining, grinding, and other preparatory work.
I have a Milwakee dry cut saw. I have been using the Fredo Metal Demon blades. My previous blade lasted quite a while. I recently purchased a new blade and it only lasted 3 weeks. I'm a hobbyist so I am not using it every day. I'm curious if there are better blades that will last and not having my wife chasing me with a pitchfork because I spent too much? I am only cutting 1/8" or thinner material.
shade-tree
- shade-tree
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I used the original blade on my Milwaukee dry saw on-and-off for 2.5 years until it was stolen and it was only down to 13.5". Blade hardness is a trade off between cutting speed and life. My original was clearly a very hard blade and worked very well on thin (1/8") material. When used on anything over 1/4" it would load up when the metal heated up and would stop cutting. I tried water cooling (dangerous on electrical saws) with little success. I finally used a carbide wheel dressing stick to remove the buildup during the cut and cooled the heavier metal with compressed air - not a good solution but it got the job done. If your blades are not lasting, they are soft and therefore are cutting fast. For your thin stock try a hard one from Milwaukee. They make both types. Blades come in different grades, just like grinder wheels. For heavy stuff switch to the soft blade. There is a reason for inexpensive tools to be inexpensive. As I read elsewhere on this blog, it is not the price - it is the cost.
BTW, all the above relates to cutting 1010 - 1020 mild steel. Use the soft blade on hard steel.
Jon
BTW, all the above relates to cutting 1010 - 1020 mild steel. Use the soft blade on hard steel.
Jon
This guy converted his cold cut saw to a track saw.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o9093a_TV_o
Is there a possibility of a kickback? It doesn't look too safe.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o9093a_TV_o
Is there a possibility of a kickback? It doesn't look too safe.
- weldin mike 27
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Location:Australia; Victoria
That is way cool!
Pete
Pete
WerkSpace wrote:This guy converted his cold cut saw to a track saw.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o9093a_TV_o
Is there a possibility of a kickback? It doesn't look too safe.
Pete
Esab SVI 300, Mig 4HD wire feeder, 30A spool gun, Miller Passport, Dynasty 300 DX, Coolmate 4, Spectrum 2050, C&K Cold Wire feeder WF-3, Black Gold Tungsten Sharperner, Prime Weld 225
Esab SVI 300, Mig 4HD wire feeder, 30A spool gun, Miller Passport, Dynasty 300 DX, Coolmate 4, Spectrum 2050, C&K Cold Wire feeder WF-3, Black Gold Tungsten Sharperner, Prime Weld 225
- TRACKRANGER
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Location:Melbourne, Australia
Pretty impressive.WerkSpace wrote:This guy converted his cold cut saw to a track saw.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o9093a_TV_o
Is there a possibility of a kickback? It doesn't look too safe.
He seems more of a wood worker than a machinist, but the result is great!
EWM Phonenix 355 Pulse MIG set mainly for Aluminum, CIGWeld 300Amp AC/DC TIG, TRANSMIG S3C 300 Amp MIG, etc, etc
- Ratsathome
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What about the "Evolution" range. They are multi purpose saws that do wood and steel and their 14" do 2750rpm?WerkSpace wrote:Regular saws spin too fast.weldin mike 27 wrote:Y U NO BUY A CIRULAR SAW?? HAHA.
Evolutuion works great in a regular saw. Just dont use a cheap one. Needs more torque to cut steel and that equals more power that equals heat which kills cheap saws. If the gears doesnt fail first.
Pictures from my scrap collection:
http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... f=9&t=5677
http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... f=9&t=5677
- Otto Nobedder
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Joined:Thu Jan 06, 2011 11:40 pm
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Location:Near New Orleans
I've used a saw, that looks just like any other circular saw but for the metal-chip catcher, that ran slower and use 7 1/4" dry-cut blades. I've cut 3/8" a36 plate with it.WerkSpace wrote:Regular saws spin too fast.weldin mike 27 wrote:Y U NO BUY A CIRULAR SAW?? HAHA.
For aluminum, I'll use a plain-ol' DeWalt circular saw with a 32-tooth carbide blade.
Steve S
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