Metal cutting - oxyfuel cutting, plasma cutting, machining, grinding, and other preparatory work.
Aluminium band saw - carry on regardless?
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Hey all.

I now have two old band saws, a 10 inch and a 14 inch. I have given both of them some TLC (new tyres, set up time) and they run great.

My Surface Feet Per Minute speeds are somewhere around 1,400. I am using wood cutting blades to zip through aluminium, from 10mm plate to 3mm wall box section and 1.6mm wall tube. Easy, quick, no heat, hassles or blunting of blades.

When I search online, it seems opinion is divided on wood saw speeds/blades for aluminium. Some say it's a bad idea that will end in tears, others say they do it all the time with no problems.

I am inclined to just keep doing what I'm doing, but would value any thoughts you might have on this. Is it worth gearing lower, or should I just carry on as I am?


Kym
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noddybrian
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If it's working for you & gives a good cut with acceptable blade life then stick with it - blade material & tooth profile will have an effect on this - I seem to remember a place I worked at that made truck bumpers etc had a fairly big " Startrite " saw & that ran a bit slower - maybe 900 - but it's a long time ago so not 100% ! if it's a high speed blade your in the middle of the expected cutting speeds for the same material on other machines - if you really want to check there are online speed / feed calculators for bandsaws much like the Miller weld one - but if your happy with the results I don't see a problem.
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If it works, great.

I have used my Jet 14" wood saw with a 1/4" fine tooth blade to scroll cut aluminum. I do wish it ran slower though. The metal cutting saws have step pulleys with four speed positions. The bi-metal blades have HSS teeth so they can handle a lot more heat. Once carbon steel blades reach a certain temp they quickly dull. I touch a piece of paraffin or bees' wax to the running teeth before cutting to keep the teeth from clogging with aluminum. I don't think I want solvent-based lube on the tyres.
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Thanks guys.

I am currently running a 6TPI blade on my small saw, so no need for lube and no chance of clogging. My 14 inch saw has a layshaft and some sort of gear knob, too. I am thinking that I might keep the small saw as it is for aluminium cutting, and gear the big saw down for steel cutting. One saw for each material would be convenient.


Kym
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Erich
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I have cut Aluminum with a Carbide wood blade in my worm drive circular saw. Noisy as all get out but a nice cut and no dangerous grabbing.
Aluminum feeds are not far away from wood, so I say if it works keep doing it.
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Erich wrote:I have cut Aluminum with a Carbide wood blade in my worm drive circular saw. Noisy as all get out but a nice cut and no dangerous grabbing.
Aluminum feeds are not far away from wood, so I say if it works keep doing it.
I have used a wood miter saw with carbide teeth to cut aluminum with wax on the blade.

The worm drive skilsaw sounds like a good way to get aluminum and/or carbide bits in the eyeball since it throws chips upward. I think I'll, at least, wear double condoms and put mom on speed dial for that operation. . . . and a full face shield would be nice.
Lincoln 100 amp transformer MIG w/flux core wire
HF TIG w/no pedal for steel & stainless, Stick w/3/32 6011,7018
Formerly: Victor O/A and Lincoln 225 AC buzz box
Looking to upgrade
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Wood Welder wrote:
Erich wrote:I have cut Aluminum with a Carbide wood blade in my worm drive circular saw. Noisy as all get out but a nice cut and no dangerous grabbing.
Aluminum feeds are not far away from wood, so I say if it works keep doing it.
I have used a wood miter saw with carbide teeth to cut aluminum with wax on the blade.

The worm drive skilsaw sounds like a good way to get aluminum and/or carbide bits in the eyeball since it throws chips upward. I think I'll, at least, wear double condoms and put mom on speed dial for that operation. . . . and a full face shield would be nice.
Although the mitre saw (I have one with a specialist aluminium blade) gives nice clean cuts, I use the band saw whenever I can simply because the mitre saw spreads little aluminium chips far and wide every time I use it. Definitely hazardous to the eyesight, I wear goggles every time. The biggest problem is that because I have sensitive stuff in my shed (half built engines, etc.) there is no way I would use the mitre saw there. It has to be used outdoors.

So most of the time its the band saw that is used.



Kym
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