[Saz]

I need something in my life- a better way to cut metal. I am just a garage hobby guy, and I like to tinker with just about everything. I am collecting enough stuff to make a new table and cart, but I need soemthing that will cut consistent angles on angle, round and bar stock. I am thinking a chopsaw. Do I go the abrasive or dry saw route? OR how about a horizontal bandsaw? Seems like the horizontal bandsaw could "walk" side to side a little easier? I am not looking to drop 2K on a saw, but the Evolution Rage 2 has peaked my interest, and I can get it from Sears for about $185..... Thoughts?

[Tom Osselton]

I'm using the 14 " Evolution and am more than happy with it you could go with the rage it depends on what your cutting size wise for future projects a bandsaw has a more useful cut range and is a good starting point.

[LtBadd]

Chopsaw...NO
Bandsaw...maybe
Drycut saw...slamdunk

HERE is a link to a previous discussion that may help you decide.

[Farmwelding]

Don't cheap out on anything for cutting. Go with the bandsaw of it is good and somewhat accurate or the dry cut saw. Just remember blade price and don't ruin the blades. Once you learn to use the band saw you will get great cuts.

[exnailpounder]

Chopsaw...NO
Bandsaw...maybe
Drycut saw...slamdunk

HERE is a link to a previous discussion that may help you decide.

I agree with this. I screwed around with abrasives for a long time cause it was cheap but everything in my shop had an inch of black dust on it and I had some horrendous shop boogers all the time and it was loud and slow. I got a bandsaw but it was too slow and too much of a pain to keep it cutting straight and then I bought the Dewalt drycut saw and it was like meeting God...I don't know why I torture myself like I do. I think I paid $600 and change and it was worth every penny. I have a Milwaukee Porta-Band for small stuff to save the blade on the Dewalt but both do a fine job.

[Poland308]

I think my preference would be for the band saw. But it's a lot more money. Probably because I've only worked two places that had cold cut saws and neither of them could miter. The new ones have come a long way with there features and really are probably the best bang for your $

[dynasty200sd]

I need something in my life- a better way to cut metal. I am just a garage hobby guy, and I like to tinker with just about everything. I am collecting enough stuff to make a new table and cart, but I need soemthing that will cut consistent angles on angle, round and bar stock. I am thinking a chopsaw. Do I go the abrasive or dry saw route? OR how about a horizontal bandsaw? Seems like the horizontal bandsaw could "walk" side to side a little easier? I am not looking to drop 2K on a saw, but the Evolution Rage 2 has peaked my interest, and I can get it from Sears for about $185..... Thoughts?

Like other's have, I too started out using an abrasive chop saw. I then obtained an inexpensive horizontal bandsaw. Each tool has a dedicated purpose with secondary abilities, is how I look at it.

With what you are looking for advicewise; to start out this is the dry saw I am going with; Evolution EVOSAW380.

Quickly looking at current online pricing, they are pricing at around $375-400. This is a little more than what you are wanting to spend, though as others suggested; spend a little more for you'll get your money back in savings due to the amount of cuts that can be made before blade needs changing.

If wanting a nice horizontal bandsaw; this Baileigh BS-210M is my pick. I was sold on it after watching a video ZTFab made showing how accurate it is in how thin it can cut slivers of metal from parent piece. Thing is though, it has a MSRP of $2595.00.

[sedanman]

The Evolution 380 is $408.20 on Home Depots website. Open a Home Depot account and take 6 months to pay for it with no interest and get a one year, no questions asked return policy

[DennisCA]

I am thinking about this as well, also a hobby guy in a garage and I believe my preference would be for a bandsaw, the milwaukee deep cut 5" saw to be precise, then fitted with a DIY table like this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h2uWx7xl1go

Also a question of money and this seems to give most capability for least money spent. And I don't want something that throws metal dust around. Also I want a vertical, I am used to working wood and I have a 24" cast iron monster

I also don't have a lot of room left anymore, so I need to be able to just plop it down under my welding table when not in use.

[entity-unknown]

Here's Jody's instructions on building his portaband saw stand which I and several others have copied which you'll find threads in the project section of the main forum. I spent about $140 ($170 with 20% off coupon) at Harbor Freight for my portaband saw. After building my stand I get perfectly straight cuts every time now! And I didn't spend $600-$3000 plus I had fun building the stand myself

http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/por ... stand.html

Projects section of the forum:
http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/viewforum.php?f=9

Here's his build video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y4kTUPB4HZM

Super simple and personally I think it was a great first time welding project since you're not likely to kill anyone or regret any screw ups on your welds so long as you get things straight. If you don't then you can fix it and still not care.

The one thing I did differently than most is I added a mechanical cable tension based trigger system with a lock bar to turn the saw on and off. The lock bar is setup so it locks in place so you can use both hands to guide your part in rather than one hand on the trigger. It's easy to turn off with a quick kick or push on the lock bar and I could even operate the setup with my foot if I wanted to.

Here's my project thread showing the cable system:
http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... =9&t=10095
P.S. apparently a thread jacking of fancy whiskey took place which is a fun read in itself

[wormworksfab]

I am in a similar position. I am in welding school, working on my own side projects at home (and eventually hope to take on some side work as my skills improve) and am in need of a better way to cut metal. I have a metabo cordless porta-band which is awesome for small stuff, but am currently using a 4.5 electric grinder for cutting anything i can't with the porta-band. I am working on designing a ladder rack for my truck, which will use 2x2x11ga tubing, and need a good way to cut 45s for fit up of everything. I am working with a pretty limited budget. Was looking into abrasive chop saw, but seeming like it will be in my best interest to just go the dry saw route? Especially as I want something that will allow me to grow into some and won't want to instantly be upgrading or getting something different. Is that evosaw380 the way to go?

[One of a kind]

I have a bandsaw but I still use my chop saw for cutting rebar and making cuts where a welded joint prevents the bandsaws vice from holding the steel.

[electrode]

I have a bandsaw but I still use my chop saw for cutting rebar and making cuts where a welded joint prevents the bandsaws vice from holding the steel.

Is that a Ridgid when it actually had the cast iron base? I bought one just after they cheapened the base and almost returned it. Then I decided I could deal with it. Mine:
https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/14-inch-ab ... ff-machine

[homeboy]

My personal experience--Evolution 380 14in saw. Used an abrasive for years and had no idea how horrible it was until I got the Evolution!! A few moments of setup and you can make very accurate cuts consistently.No dust just chips that don't go far. If you are carefull the supplied blade gives excellent service .My original blade has been sharpened twice and the teck said if I don't get stupid probably 4-5 more at $20.00 a pop. I just built a utility trailer -cut every piece with new blade that was used prior a fair bit and the blade is still like new. The rage saw is a lighter version with a non releasable clamp- you have to thread each way and with a straight control handle. The 380 has the "D" handle which is nice for bench work. I looked at Dewalt but wasn't sold on the clamping system. It cuts fast and clean and very accurate. One thing that greatly helped accurate cuts is a twin thread movable adjustable roller stand I made that just sits on my cutting table which is very stable and allows for dead on accuracy. I just cut some 5inx1/4in flat on edge and was aprox. 1/64 from square!! Short story long--its a great saw!!

[One of a kind]

I have a bandsaw but I still use my chop saw for cutting rebar and making cuts where a welded joint prevents the bandsaws vice from holding the steel.

Is that a Ridgid when it actually had the cast iron base? I bought one just after they cheapened the base and almost returned it. Then I decided I could deal with it. Mine:
https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/14-inch-ab ... ff-machine

electrode, it's Milwaukee with a cast aluminum base. It's been a good chopper.

[electrode]

I have a bandsaw but I still use my chop saw for cutting rebar and making cuts where a welded joint prevents the bandsaws vice from holding the steel.

Is that a Ridgid when it actually had the cast iron base? I bought one just after they cheapened the base and almost returned it. Then I decided I could deal with it. Mine:
https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/14-inch-ab ... ff-machine

electrode, it's Milwaukee with a cast aluminum base. It's been a good chopper.

Thanks for the info. You must have bought it years ago because now even Milwaukee has switched to the stamped steel base like all the other brands. Mine works fine but I sure wanted the cast base. I can always make a base if I see the need I guess.

[Tom Osselton]

My personal experience--Evolution 380 14in saw. Used an abrasive for years and had no idea how horrible it was until I got the Evolution!! A few moments of setup and you can make very accurate cuts consistently.No dust just chips that don't go far. If you are carefull the supplied blade gives excellent service .My original blade has been sharpened twice and the teck said if I don't get stupid probably 4-5 more at $20.00 a pop. I just built a utility trailer -cut every piece with new blade that was used prior a fair bit and the blade is still like new. The rage saw is a lighter version with a non releasable clamp- you have to thread each way and with a straight control handle. The 380 has the "D" handle which is nice for bench work. I looked at Dewalt but wasn't sold on the clamping system. It cuts fast and clean and very accurate. One thing that greatly helped accurate cuts is a twin thread movable adjustable roller stand I made that just sits on my cutting table which is very stable and allows for dead on accuracy. I just cut some 5inx1/4in flat on edge and was aprox. 1/64 from square!! Short story long--its a great saw!!

No complaints with mine it's a great saw!

[cornmuse]

Since I got a 'deep throat' Milwakuee portaband, I rarely use my abrasive chop saw (Ryobi 14" 35 yr old almost all aluminium saw), or my handheld hacksaws either!!

-c-

[WildWestWelder]

For a chop saw I have a 10" cold saw. Once you use one of these you will want to see how far you can throw your abrasive saw. They are more expensive but oh what a difference.

For big cut off work I have a DoAll 916 horizontal bandsaw. For my vertical I have a DoAll 1612. Both are nice saws.

[pgk]

I have a cheapy 4 x 6 band saw and a used Scotchman Cold Saw, the cold saw almost leaves a milled like finish but for what I do I don't need a edge like that plus the coolant is kind of a mess, I find myself using my bandsaw more than anything else. I thought about selling off the cold saw and getting a Ellis 1600 but my work area is small and would take up room that I currently don't have to spare. Those dry saws are nice, my brother has one and swears by it plus they are lite and compact, unlike the 700lb Scotchman! LOL

[Fly]

No question, the 14 " Evolution cold saw is my most used saw. I have many saws in my shop. Being
a retire tool & die maker I kept all my saws from over the years. But the most used saw in my shop
is the 14 " Evolution. Alum or steel it cuts it faster clean & with no heat. You can pull the metal
from the saw & it is barely warm.
Fly

[homeboy]

One thing I noticed when researching for a cold cut saw was that the older reviews for the Evolution 380 noted some complaints about the design. As the reviews got closer to present time these deficiencies were corrected and when I bought mine in 2015 all had been addressed. That indicated the company was listening and trying to improve their product. Dewalt on the other hand has had long standing complaints with their clamping system which recent reviews indicate has not been satisfactorily rectified. That was a main factor in my decision which to buy.

[Rupes]

I bought a 14" Slugger dry cut saw. It had the best clamping system of the saws available here. That was the main prerequisite, it had to have a good clamp and accurate miters, well reasonable ones in any case.

I had years ago a chop saw and sold it. I then had a cheap bandsaw, very accurate no complaints except for one. Took forever to cut. Was ok though I could set up and have a smoke while it did its thing. However as I said slow, and also quite bulky.

Dry saw is a no brainer for me. Perhaps in production you could calculate cost per cut etc and maybe there are better options, but for a home user its great. Sits on a shelf, pull it out cut up 20 bits of stock in ten minutes and put it away. Gold. Same thing on a bandsaw takes 40 mins. All my aluminium I do on my Milwaukee 12" sliding compound wood saw. Just put in a aluminium blade.