Welding Tips and Tricks

Might try a good heating... 500* done slow and even, like with the chuck spinning and a rosebud stationary.

Then try the other steps again while hot.

Just a thought.

Steve S

Gearbox to hold it.

Heat sounds fair, now. The chuck should feel some heat.

maybe heat and a good penetrating solution. melted candle wax is good. another is a mix of atf and acetone.

Heat and beeswax, does some amazing things when it comes to threads.

Len

Hey AnvilJack, I have a Mill/Drill similar to yours. Here a couple of pics:

It is very similar. But, is your Mill set up in your workshop: very nice decor.

My floor remains a slab of concrete, and my pictures are ... different to yours. Nice screen, too.

So, what is left after you've made the chips fly?

I've seen a lot of things on the wall behind a machine tool, but that's the first time I've seen framed "still-life--floral".

Half-naked lady on a ten-year-old calender, sure.

I think I like it.

Steve S

Keep in mind, my wife has ACTUALLY SAID, "Honey, would you move this transmission so I can take a shower?"

Not kidding...

Steve S

Hey everyone, first of all, Merry Christmas!!
This room used to be a "Lanai" in my house. I converted it to my small machine shop. I have made small parts with this mill but mostly mill square, rectangular tube & piping for welding.

Off doing a lathe course: good fun.

And picked up a lot of milling cutters (a hundred or more) for $200; local university closed it's engineering course.

And the lathe clings to its chuck. In a few weeks I will have time to give it one more opportunity to cooperate and let go, or it will go on sale, to be replaced by a new one. So much for bargains.

Do you have a back gear on your lathe? If so, try engaging that. It might give you enough torque with a breaker bar between the chuck jaws to free it. It just worked on mine.

Other Steve

In the course I am doing we work on Hercus lathes, old, with belt drive, and I know how to engage the back gear on those machines.

It seems "odd" to me, but the lathe I have, a Chinese-made BV20-1.1, is a geared drive and I cannot find any way of locking the spindle.

I have been quite tough on it, and am afraid to do more, since I might damage the gears. I still haven't tried the heat idea, which just might work. I have a lot going on right now -- construction work. So, I will give the chuck another work out, but in a few weeks.

Though it sounds cruel on the machine I still believe from experience that " shock " will always win over torque when removing a chuck - & leaving the gearbox in it's lowest speed will provide sufficient resistance of the the spindle turning to allow you to shock it even though it will move a bit each time - it's less likely to cause damage than attempting to lock the spindle - 2 slightly less common methods - if you have access to a large pneumatic nut gun ( like 1" drive ) or bribe a local tire fitter to call round - try to obtain or make a large piece of hexagon to grip in the chuck that you have an impact socket to fit & let the nut gun have a rattle on it for a while - or ( going to get some hate for this ! ) make up a hefty piece of round bar that can be clamped in the chuck with a spigot protruding that fits well into the tailstock to help support the load - weld an arm at right angles to this at least 12" long to use as a " slogging " wrench & let it see the 14lb hammer like you meant it ! - good luck & hope to hear you got the better of it when time allows.

Locking a chuck without a lock,, open headstock , insert rag between chuck gear and main drive gear ,,, locked

Thanks for the ideas.

I will try everything, shortly.

I was reading every post on this thread to make sure i understand what is happening. i was looking online what this BV20 lathe might look like so in what i have seen is that the headstock spindle has a tapered thread adapter for the chuck and in my experience if you do heavy machining in this kind of chuck it would stuck real good, but it is a small lathe I don't think it done some heavy cutting. I think the previous owner might accidentally bump the chuck on the tool turret. As the other suggest shock might do the trick . If you can't find a big pneumatic impact wrench and a hexagonal bar try clamping across the chuck a iron bar the biggest the chuck could accommodate and give it a good whack, just protect the lathe bed. Don't worry about the chuck it could handle the beating. My suggestion is base on my experience I did run my turret to the chuck ( i was inexperience and stupid that time) and the chuck got stuck to the headstock big time. Guess what its also a Chinese made bench lathe.

Didnt realize theres a mill & lathe thread here.

I bought a Rusnok 18" mill about 30 years ago at a yard sale, sold as a heavy duty drill press.

It is WWII surplus from off some navy ship.

It is both a vertical & horizontal mill, the horiz part does not have a motor, (it would be in the base, base is made by the 'Singer sewing machine company'). It 'would' be infinitly adjustable speed control, has a crank on the side & an adjustable pulley inside.
I have not seen a horiz mill since hi school metal shop back in the '60's!
Question: Is it worth getting a motor and setting it up as horiz? It looks like some form of taper through the horiz shaft. prolly morse?
Mounting cutters in the vert is a collet setup & someone had made about 30 collets from 1/8" up to 1/2" I have several cutters with 1/2" shanks, & also do (fairly) precision drilling with it.
No one Ive ever talked to ever heard if this one, Rusnok yes, just not this one.
Anyone?

I'd fix it up.

Further, I'd research what ship it came from. It's possible it's historically significant.

Steve S

this site is pretty good for old machinery...
http://vintagemachinery.org/home.aspx

They may not know about that specific mill, but if you post pictures, someone may be able to help.

Other Steve

delraydella wrote: but if you post pictures, someone may be able to help.

A few pics:
Weighs well over 1000lb.
18" bed
The lever is for 'drill press' drilling, just over 2 1/2". It came with a 1/2" chuck with 1/2" shaft, use 1/2" collet.
4 speeds, motor is set offset on large circle, rotate to loosen belt, change pulley grooves, rotate to tighten.
Original light!
Has an electric power feed motor (reversable) for bed with settable tabs for stopping feed. It is super slow, set for max travel, you could go fix lunch & eat it before feed stops.

Its pretty neat.

I'd spend the time to clean it up - maybe not a full on restoration - but get it up & working - a mill is a useful tool to have & that sort of age machine is so much better built than modern stuff - I have some mills & although I don't use the horizontal that often I still comes in handy at times - people see them as old fashioned - but when I need to cut splines of any length it's still my preferred method - still use a shaping machine on occasion - maybe I'm showing my age !

wquiles wrote:

AnvilJack wrote:Would those members who have lathes and mills mind showing us some of their work, please?

I have been doing machining for myself and for others since 2005, initially on flashlight parts, although now also on shaving stuff with Titanium, and I have a few of those projects here in my Hobby website:
http://www.atdms.com/


I made my own adjustable, 1000 lumen flashlight from scratch:



Lots of boring flashlight parts:



Lots of small custom parts:



Lots of grooves on flashlight parts:




Made my own LED shop lights for the lathe and mill:





Making custom parts for a diving flashlight:



Titanium shaving brush:



Titanium handle for DE/satety razor:



Knurling on brass for a DE/safety razor handle:



And not directly related to the lathe/mill, but I also do my own electronics as well (design, layout, solder, program, etc.):



Will

to begin the work with the use of this all machines and tools is something like achieving e real time work,it helpful and truly fascinating.

The BV20 lathe has a new home, an owner who is certain he can free up the chuck. Thanks for all your help: I felt my efforts were sure to be damaging teeth in gears, etc.

Anyway, a new lathe, Chinese, from ebay, now sits alongside my mill.

I try to work on each of them a few hours each week.

Well I hope the new one works out for you - but lathes & other machine shop stuff I would not even consider an import - they are good at imitating electronics - machinery is a different matter - look around & find a good domestic one - as long as it's been maintained anything from the 50's up to the 80's will still give good service in my opinion.

Yep, I'm still at it, and still have a long way to go.

In my wandering on the Internet, I found these sites, which might help other people getting started with machining.

https://sites.google.com/site/lagadoacademy/home

http://electron.mit.edu/~gsteele/mirror ... intro.html

http://techtv.mit.edu/genres/24-how-to/ ... ine-shop-1

Cheers.