Welding Tips and Tricks

What is the best way to cut square sock, such as square tubing, angle iron, flat bar etc? Thickness ranging from 1/8” to 1/4”z
I’ve got a chop saw, it’s slower than Christmas on 2” square tubing @ 3/16”, and not always square. I’ve used Zip disk, but that’s pretty slow also. I’ve got a Milwaukee portable band saw, it’s ok.. but I’m not the best at keeping it straight.
I was looking at dry cut saws, with carbide blades, but found some people saying they don’t work well on say 2” square tubing over 1/8” thick.
Also looked at the dry cut circular saws.
Would like the dry cut chop style, with the base, and clamp if it would work.
What do y’all use?
Thanks

Band saw. Heavy duty one with a liquid cooled blade

I got tired of my Dewalt chop abrasive saw. Never cut square, made lots of noise and sparks and it was dirty. I'm a furniture builder that occasionally has to weld some tubing for various commissions. So time is not much of an issue for me I just need accuracy and less mess.

I purchased a Klutch 4 1/2" x 6" horizontal band saw. OK, sure it was built in China, but if you pay attention to blade set up it is great. It will make repeatable square tubing cuts at all angles. I mostly use tubing from 24 ga up to 3/16" I'm very happy with the little saw. Again, I don't do 'production' work or need fast output.

Oh, the little saw did not break my weekly brewskis allowance........

Carbide blade on a chop saw. Just cut up 1.5x1.5x187 tubing all morning on it. Welded it up this afternoon. Some decent cutting oil, and a metal cutting (slower speed) proper saw, works fine.

A horizontal/vertical bandsaw would be my preference, but I don't have one here at the house, but do in the shop.

I have a cordless metal saw it eats 2" tubing no problem. I don't have a dry cut chop saw but after seeing how well those. Carbide blades work on my little circ saw something like an Evolution dry cut saw is high on my list.

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I hear the evolution saws have poor build quality. Tough to keep to square and so on.

On the cheap, my next thought is a SKILSAW brand worm drive saw. The Milwaukee and Makita make metal cutting saws that run at 3600ish rpm. The worm drives clock in at 4400.

I have all three: 14" abrasive chop saw, EVO Rage2 carbide chop saw, water-cooled 7x12 bandsaw. Bandsaw wins hands down for cutting square because everything on it is adjustable. 14" carbide saw comes in a close 2nd, as it cuts pretty square. Abrasive saw is the worst if it has a cheap stamped frame because the whole thing flexes when you apply the necessary pressure, but it will cut 2" x 3/16" wall tube if you orient it properly, in the vertical ♦ orientation.

jrgreene1968 wrote:What is the best way to cut square sock, such as square tubing, angle iron, flat bar etc? Thickness ranging from 1/8” to 1/4”z
I’ve got a chop saw, it’s slower than Christmas on 2” square tubing @ 3/16”, and not always square. I’ve used Zip disk, but that’s pretty slow also. I’ve got a Milwaukee portable band saw, it’s ok.. but I’m not the best at keeping it straight.
I was looking at dry cut saws, with carbide blades, but found some people saying they don’t work well on say 2” square tubing over 1/8” thick.
Also looked at the dry cut circular saws.
Would like the dry cut chop style, with the base, and clamp if it would work.
What do y’all use?
Thanks

I have the Evolution 380 with 14in blade and have cut lots of various tubing up to 3in, mainly 1/8 and 3/16 to 1/4 using the supplied jig that clamps the stock on a 45% instead of flat. Cuts much easier and gives longer blade life. With proper setup pretty much perfect square or miter cuts are the norm. Had an abrasive saw before.

jrgreene1968 wrote:What is the best way to cut square sock, such as square tubing, angle iron, flat bar etc? Thickness ranging from 1/8” to 1/4”z
I’ve got a chop saw, it’s slower than Christmas on 2” square tubing @ 3/16”, and not always square. I’ve used Zip disk, but that’s pretty slow also. I’ve got a Milwaukee portable band saw, it’s ok.. but I’m not the best at keeping it straight.
I was looking at dry cut saws, with carbide blades, but found some people saying they don’t work well on say 2” square tubing over 1/8” thick.
Also looked at the dry cut circular saws.
Would like the dry cut chop style, with the base, and clamp if it would work.
What do y’all use?
Thanks

I have the Evolution 380 with 14in blade and have cut lots of various tubing up to 3in, mainly 1/8 and 3/16 to 1/4 using the supplied jig that clamps the stock on a 45% instead of flat. Cuts much easier and gives longer blade life. With proper setup pretty much perfect square or miter cuts are the norm. Had an abrasive saw before.

jrgreene1968 wrote:What is the best way to cut square sock, such as square tubing, angle iron, flat bar etc? Thickness ranging from 1/8” to 1/4”z
I’ve got a chop saw, it’s slower than Christmas on 2” square tubing @ 3/16”, and not always square. I’ve used Zip disk, but that’s pretty slow also. I’ve got a Milwaukee portable band saw, it’s ok.. but I’m not the best at keeping it straight.
I was looking at dry cut saws, with carbide blades, but found some people saying they don’t work well on say 2” square tubing over 1/8” thick.
Also looked at the dry cut circular saws.
Would like the dry cut chop style, with the base, and clamp if it would work.
What do y’all use?
Thanks

I have the Evolution 380 with 14in blade and have cut lots of various tubing up to 3in, mainly 1/8 and 3/16 to 1/4 using the supplied jig that clamps the stock on a 45% instead of flat for 90's. Cuts much easier and gives longer blade life. With proper setup pretty much perfect square or miter cuts are the norm. Had an abrasive saw before.

PREFACE: How Square?

1) Band-Saws (laydown) work, but require checking... sub 1 Degree is great if blade gets dull walks too
2) Dry-cut (non modified base & back fence) cut good for welding
3) Dry-cut saw (Modified base and Back Fence) cut GREAT
4) Abrasive saw makes a mess

Cold-Saw Cuts GREAT, but I don't have one at home due to cost of machine...

To me I am going to check, double check, and yes triple check every joint prior to welding. At home I use my dry-cut saw with a completly machined base and back fence, if I am heading over to help a friend then it is the stock dry-cut. I will only use my abrasive to rough out tool steel. Since I don't have to do that at home the abrasive saw just draws dust.