Just started workin' on this one. One thing I noticed is that the root pass is very prone to heating up during the filler and cap passes; causing a decent "wedding band" root to end up looking like a sagging piece of shit.
I used a 3/32 tungsten and filler metal, but I have the option of using a 1/8 should I want to.
Had to swap out the Northern Tool helmet for my buddy's Speedglas too. (better visibility by far)
Anyone got any suggestions as to how I can improve the quality of my weld? (I'll also be doing 3G, 5G, and 6G soon)
Ok, I would set it up like this. Sharp bevel, "no land" 3/32" gap, 1/8' or 3/32" tungsten, doesn't matter too much, 1/8" filler I think will be the key here, about 125 amps for root, your good at 145 for hot pass. I would turn it back to about 125 for fill and cap passes. I think what your doing is making a thin root pass with the 3/32" filler and your hot pass is penetrating too deep and maybe sucking the root pass back toward the face of the plate and flattening the root side. Maybe... A heavier root pass should help. If you don't want to use 1/8" filler, then don't run your hot pass as hot as what you have been. that might keep it from sucking back.
75 amps is fairly cold, unless its stainless... If mild steel, around 125 for the root. If your instructor is teaching you how to keyhole, then maybe 75 amps. I don't keyhole the root with tig. I set a gap 1/32" smaller than the filler, and run over the filler without seperating it from the puddle. To do that you need more than 75 amps to break the edges down. But, there is not just one Right way to put a root pass in with a TIG. You could ask 5 welders and get 5 different answers.
Yea we are using the keyhole method.
I keep hearing from a lot of people that the more passes you can fit into a grove weld the better, as opposed to using a larger diameter filler rod or increased wire speed.
Any thoughts on this?
I keep hearing from a lot of people that the more passes you can fit into a grove weld the better, as opposed to using a larger diameter filler rod or increased wire speed.
Any thoughts on this?
The strongest weld you can do, is 1.5 to 2 times the diameter rod or filler you are using. 3/32"rod=9/64"-3/16" bead or 1/8"rod=3/16"-1/4" bead and so on. Some people will disagree but tests done by people alot smarter than us have proven it. Im not at all saying that if you don't go by this your weld is not sound. Im just saying that stringer beads are stronger than weaves.
Puritan wrote:Just started workin' on this one. One thing I noticed is that the root pass is very prone to heating up during the filler and cap passes; causing a decent "wedding band" root to end up looking like a sagging piece of shit.
I used a 3/32 tungsten and filler metal, but I have the option of using a 1/8 should I want to.
Had to swap out the Northern Tool helmet for my buddy's Speedglas too. (better visibility by far)
Anyone got any suggestions as to how I can improve the quality of my weld? (I'll also be doing 3G, 5G, and 6G soon)
marcusharvy
- marcusharvy
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Joined:Fri Dec 28, 2012 2:53 am
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Location:2560 N Shady Maple Ridge Rd, La Crosse, WI 54601
Have You undergone welding certification test? When You start with 3G and 6G You can think of giving this and getting certified. Rest whatever You have been doing is sufficient to improve and rest practice would do.