Welding Tips and Tricks

Hello,
I am in midle of practicing for welding certification and from time to time I need some pointers on how to do thing the right way.

How do I need to owerlap welds for vertical up T jount. By how much and in what order? Only stringer beads are aloud.

This one was done in flat position, total of 5 passes. I was dooing this the way Bubba told us to do

Looks good to me. Nice overlap on beads, no undercut, nice and flat. Well done.

plain ol Bill wrote:Looks good to me. Nice overlap on beads, no undercut, nice and flat. Well done.

Thanks for replay. There was a small problem that you can see on second picture at the beginning of top weld. That was because I switched from using a welder that had arc force and hot start to a welder that does not have those functions... But I adjusted my hand and my tie ins are good again.
My question was for vertical up welding on a T joint with stringer beads. Can I overlap them in same order as flat T joint or in different order?

I did not find that explanation ot this page or anywhere else on internet
http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/arc-welding.html

For this flat T, I was using same system as shown in this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ojFZ__4t7ck

My English is not the best but Im traying to explayne my self as best as possible.

This is my first time doing vertical T joint.

First did it from right,center to left. Left side was done with litle side to side motion.


















And than right, left and center with slow heavy pass.









I did get some small undercuts at the tie ins ..

Would like to hear Your toughts on this one

I don't know how much it really matters on the order you go, but I was always told left to right. However just like any other rule, it can and will be broken in the field. Sometimes you just need to get the job done and text book rules cannot be obliged by.

The order isn't too critical. The only caution I would add. when you got to the point where you welded one on the left then the right leaving a groove in the center is watch out for slag trapped at the toes of the welds in the grove which you might bridge over on your last pass. . It's fine most of the time but if it's a weld that will get exrayed then you might be leaving yourself open to slag inclusions.

Thanks for the input. At this point Im just practicing my hand so Im not taking out grinder and cleaning all of trapped salg. I tried to go from left to right and just overlap welds buy 50% and it turns out to be the best.



I did overhead and it went very good. It was easy to make tie ins but I had hard time starting a arc because of lower amp setings. After I setted the amps to what I would usualy use for flat weld than it went normal.




Now Im going over to open root welds and it is not going very well
This was my 4-th try
Im using Bohler Bohler AWS 6013 rutil/celulose electrode on 6mm tick metal. 30% bevel on each side and 2mm land, 2.5mm gap.
This is how back side looks like.






It starts ok but then it gets narove in the middle and because of that Im getting a lack of penetration... But last 4cm gap is still normal 2.5mm. Only the middle gets sucked in. Any advice on this one?
And what should be the height of a weld at the back side of the plate?

You can't open root with 6013. The flux composition is not made for that and you will get a lot of slag in there. You need 6010 or 6011. Honestly, not trying to bag on you, but throw that 6013 away. You want 7018 or some form of xx18. I know it sounds snobby, but its just not practical.

7018 is to much for 6mm plate, Ill get to it when I start practicing on 10mm ticknes... and here in weld scools 6013 is a must for open root. 6011 dont exist among this lands (I was told that by two weld instructors and by one supplier) and im not sure why they dont use 6010 i wish they would
I found this last night and it seams to be very posible to do 6013 open root
http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?19 ... dcen/page2

It is only a mater of know how and practice.. now back to grinding those bevels lol

My advice would be to burn a lot more rod. Most inspectors would look you out before you got finished. Not trying to be the grumpy old butthead here - just telling like it is.

Order doesn't matter much. Its just like MIG welding... Some people are gonna say push, others are gonna say pull. But in the end either works. I've always gone left to right and it works for me.

Looks good, just like Poland said, watch those toes, rake em good. Why are you running cold on overhead? Overhead is just like flat (except overhead lol). Stay tight as hell and just burn it, not going to get into trouble unless you start long arcing and doing crazy movement.

DLewis0289 wrote:Looks good, just like Poland said, watch those toes, rake em good. Why are you running cold on overhead? Overhead is just like flat (except overhead lol). Stay tight as hell and just burn it, not going to get into trouble unless you start long arcing and doing crazy movement.

That or you get a hot glob landing right in the crevice of your elbow or hands lol. I have scars from learning the hard way.