[TraditionalToolworks]

Not a reprint. But I think your experience is a good reckoning.

I wanted to be fair to them, their machines are not bad machines, it's more to do with their service and support.

Even Miller ( I have a max star 210 in the shop for a warranty control board, that’s less than 6 months old and has maybe 20 hrs of arc time) has a percentage of failure. The true question comes down to when you have a failure (not if) how does the manufacturer handle it? If you buy a ( Top) manufacturer machine you may have already paid for the better service.

Yeah, but the thing is Miller will take care of your machine, and even in the case of Miller if I buy from my LWS, they would give me a loaner when my machine is in for repair, same with the Lincoln if it was to take any amount of time.

We need to be fair about this also. Can I expect to get that type of service for a machine priced in the low end of AC/DC Tig machines? I don't think so...but I'm a bit surprised that Mike goes to the length he does and offers what he does, since he pays for the shipping both ways if there's a problem. I have not read of problems with the Primeweld though, they've been out for about 2 years. Everlast and AHP OTOH seems to have more cases than I would expect to see. Not trying to point any finger at them, just what I observe on the Internet. There has also been a lot of discrepancy between the recollection some people who's opinions I value and people like Mark who works for Everlast...maybe amnesia is a part of it, that I don't know...

Anyway, despite my problems with Oleg, as I said, we did overcome them, just that it left a bad taste in my mouth after the problems with Mark arose. Those are things I am long to forget.

We'll see when the Primeweld gets here in the next week or two. I hope it was the right decision, but even if not, I can return it per Mike, for a refund. That's pretty darn fair, IMO, considering he knew my concerns with the stick. I honestly thing it will be fine. Probably just keep my Everlast as it's so light and small. Keep one up at the new shop/house at Clear Lake and keep the other at my house in San Jose.

[cj737]

Probably just keep my Everlast as it's so light and small. Keep one up at the new shop/house at Clear Lake and keep the other at my house in San Jose.

If you want a SMALL 6010 capable machine, look here: https://www.millerwelds.com/equipment/w ... ers-m30132

When I say small, I mean SMALL. You'd best put a tracking device on it in case you forget where you put it down because you'll be wont to find it again if leaves are blowing about.

I worked on a job as a stand-in for a buddy who had fired several crew members, and he needed somebody to help out on a project. A new, younger crew member who was just getting started in the field could only afford a small welder and had bought the thing. He ran the piss out of it all day for 6 straight days, 6010 1/8" rods on 240v field power. He even had the thing slung over his shoulder with a strap moving around the site. Looked like a backpack welder that could almost fit in his tool belt
But it and he, welded beautifully. I was working off a PipePro 350 and couldn't see a difference in the outcomes.

Have never used an Everlast, so have no opinions on them.

[TraditionalToolworks]

If you want a SMALL 6010 capable machine, look here: https://www.millerwelds.com/equipment/w ... ers-m30132

When I say small, I mean SMALL. You'd best put a tracking device on it in case you forget where you put it down because you'll be wont to find it again if leaves are blowing about.

cj,

Yeah, I've seen those and I agree, that looks like a great machine. My Everlast is pretty similar in spec, will do down to 5 amps, will stick weld up to 160 amps, but the one thing is it won't do 6010. I have never tried it, so don't know...I have done 6011 which it is spec'd for, and I'm ok with that. My Everlast will also tig up to 200 amps. There is one other Everlast model similar to mine, with full digital and it will do 6010, the Power Tig 200T. I possibly should have gotten it at the time but I wanted the potentiometers. Ironically the Primeweld has pots also. My Power i-Tig 201 is kind of a hybrid of analog/digital. It is digital but has analog pots on it.

Have never used an Everlast, so have no opinions on them.

I've had pretty good luck with mine. I originally bought the PowerArc 200ST which was primarily a stick machine that did do 6010. I decided to exchange it to the i-Tig 201 before I used it as I really wanted HF for tig and tig is more suitable for the toolmaking I typically do. It weighs 28 lbs., the Maxstar is about half the weight...but I have 200 amp tig...

Ultimately I would prefer to have a better welder, with the Primeweld I'll have 2 inexpensive Chinese welders...

I typically prefer better tools and most of my woodworking and metalworking machines are vintage industrial 3-phase machines.

[Oscar]

Probably just keep my Everlast as it's so light and small. Keep one up at the new shop/house at Clear Lake and keep the other at my house in San Jose.

If you want a SMALL 6010 capable machine, look here: https://www.millerwelds.com/equipment/w ... ers-m30132

When I say small, I mean SMALL. You'd best put a tracking device on it in case you forget where you put it down because you'll be wont to find it again if leaves are blowing about.

I worked on a job as a stand-in for a buddy who had fired several crew members, and he needed somebody to help out on a project. A new, younger crew member who was just getting started in the field could only afford a small welder and had bought the thing. He ran the piss out of it all day for 6 straight days, 6010 1/8" rods on 240v field power. He even had the thing slung over his shoulder with a strap moving around the site. Looked like a backpack welder that could almost fit in his tool belt
But it and he, welded beautifully. I was working off a PipePro 350 and couldn't see a difference in the outcomes.

Have never used an Everlast, so have no opinions on them.

Lunchbox stick welders RULE! Stupid cooler is bigger than the welder

[TraditionalToolworks]

Oscar,

That HTP 200 TLP is one I have my eye on if I ever want a dedicated stick machine. HTP has a killer sale on those right now. However, more than I paid for my Primeweld. Completely different beast though.

The question I have to ask myself is, do I need 6010? I keep answering in my head, "no". I have 6011 capability with my green weenie, but I prefer 7018 better if I have clean material.

I guess another question could be do I even need AC ? Hard to justify in some cases as much of my work is done on steel. I have wanted the ability to do aluminum to save weight on some projects though. Now I will have that capability, but I feel that AC is a bit overrated for most hobbyist. Some of my projects are stuff that aluminum is not even well suited for, like the driveway gate. Aluminum also costs more.

The Primeweld is not super heavy, the manual lists it at 40 lbs, although Amazon listed the shipping weight at 90 lbs, so the extras add up to quite a bit weight. There is a regulator, pedal, cords, torch and consumables. It's a big boy, 28" tall, 12" wide, 22.25" deep.

It does come with a camera lens, err, I mean "Hand-hold Mast" as stated in the Chinglish manual... This is the title of the manual for the PDF document. "未命名 -1" That said, I actually think it's a better manual than my green weenie manual.

I'm going to look but think I have some 1"x2" .093" thick tube I could use for a welding cart.

[Oscar]

The question I have to ask myself is, do I need 6010? I keep answering in my head, "no".

That's because you haven't ran 6010 on this HTP lunchbox. One 6010 electrode later, and you'd be on the phone with HTP ordering one. Nah, but seriously, I'm about to make a video on it just for the heck of it. I'll probably run some cheap 6010s instead of my Lincoln 5p+/6p+ good stuff. Save those for real projects, lol.

[TraditionalToolworks]

That's because you haven't ran 6010 on this HTP lunchbox. One 6010 electrode later, and you'd be on the phone with HTP ordering one. Nah, but seriously, I'm about to make a video on it just for the heck of it. I'll probably run some cheap 6010s instead of my Lincoln 5p+/6p+ good stuff. Save those for real projects, lol.

I treat every project of mine like it's real. I prefer to use the best I can without breaking the bank. I doubt using the Lincoln 5p+/6p+ will break the bank for you...you only live once!

I think you understand what I was saying though, I will probably weld aluminum the minority of the time. Same with 6010 rod, I don't really need it as I can do 6011.

Now, a septic tank and leach field is something I am going to need for CERTAIN!

[cj737]

Some of my projects are stuff that aluminum is not even well suited for, like the driveway gate. Aluminum also costs more.

Actually, aluminum is a perfect choice for your gate; its highly resistant to corrosion, its lightweight and thus "fairs" better swinging, and is easier to move (requiring less HP in an electric motor). Yes, it costs more initially, but when you add up the other expenses and ongoing maintenance needed for steel in an external environment, the TCO comes out probably ahead.

[TraditionalToolworks]

Actually, aluminum is a perfect choice for your gate; its highly resistant to corrosion, its lightweight and thus "fairs" better swinging, and is easier to move (requiring less HP in an electric motor). Yes, it costs more initially, but when you add up the other expenses and ongoing maintenance needed for steel in an external environment, the TCO comes out probably ahead.

Indeed what you say makes sense. I think I need to compare the price of aluminum vs. steel. Most gates I see are made out of steel, I just kid of assumed that was because of cost. Most people paint the gates, so would be hard to tell if it was painted what type of steel it was anyway.

And I completely agree with the motor, less weight relates to less strain on the motor.

Honestly, this is a vary small part of the overall picture, just to get where I'm currently at with the plans, engineering, permit fees, taxes, excavating, et al...it's becoming a money pit...and the problem is I'm trying to bankroll it out of pocket...but pocket is pretty empty at this point...

This is my dream house, I want to leave it to my kids. I have been dreaming about this for 20 years since I bought the property.

[TraditionalToolworks]

Hooya! My Primeweld is on the way...got a notification this evening!

One thing I forgot about was getting some aluminum filler, so ordered some Blue Demon 4043 off Amazon tonight as my LWS was bought by Praxair and are now closed on Sat. They also close at 5:00pm, so to be safe I ordered online.

I have plenty of filler for steel, stainless, silicon bronze, etc...and have all the consumables I need, but don't have any aluminum filler.

I may have the machine before the filler, but I think Primeweld is in NJ, and UPS usually takes their time to get to Cali from back east.

For anyone thinking about a Primeweld Tig 225, they will be back in stock on May 11th, you can get on the email list by going to the Primeweld website.

[cj737]

One thing I forgot about was getting some aluminum filler, so ordered some Blue Demon 4043 off Amazon tonight as my LWS was bought by Praxair and are now closed on Sat.

I stopped buying 4043 a few years back. I use 4943 for most welding, 5356 for exterior applications, 4047 for cast repairs and have never looked back.

It is my experience that 4943 wets in better, retains its appearance versus getting grainy by nature (4043) and it certainly has not done me wrong. Only place I still get stuck using 4043 is in the spool gun on my multi-process machine.

[Oscar]

One thing I forgot about was getting some aluminum filler, so ordered some Blue Demon 4043 off Amazon tonight as my LWS was bought by Praxair and are now closed on Sat.

I stopped buying 4043 a few years back. I use 4943 for most welding, 5356 for exterior applications, 4047 for cast repairs and have never looked back.

It is my experience that 4943 wets in better, retains its appearance versus getting grainy by nature (4043) and it certainly has not done me wrong. Only place I still get stuck using 4043 is in the spool gun on my multi-process machine.

FYI Washington Alloy also produces ER4943 (how I don't know). Perhaps they have a license to do so. I don't know about their pricing because they never respond to my emails. Baker's Gas still has the best pricing IMO.

[TraditionalToolworks]

I stopped buying 4043 a few years back. I use 4943 for most welding, 5356 for exterior applications, 4047 for cast repairs and have never looked back.

It is my experience that 4943 wets in better, retains its appearance versus getting grainy by nature (4043) and it certainly has not done me wrong. Only place I still get stuck using 4043 is in the spool gun on my multi-process machine.

cj,

Thanks for that tip, I knew about 4943 but wanted to be safe and it seems that most people weld 6061 with 4043. I will definitely put that on the list of filler to try. I don't have a problem buying some filler, I only got 2 lbs. last night, 1/16" and 3/32". That might even last me quite a while, but will pick up a lb. of 4943 to try when I see what size I'm using most.

But tell me something. I have some chunks of 7075 that I have used in the past to mill. I have read in the past that 7075 is not weldable, is that so or does one of these other alloys work for it? In the past I would opt for 7075 for milling when buying from SIMS as they charge the same price for both 6061 and 7075 for scrap, and did have a lot of Kaiser stamped blocks....but I think most of the sheet is 6061. I don't have very much sheet, nor do I blocks for that matter, but I know I have a few pieces of small sheet that is definitely 6061.

What gives on 7075-T6 ? ye? ne?

FYI Washington Alloy also produces ER4943 (how I don't know). Perhaps they have a license to do so. I don't know about their pricing because they never respond to my emails. Baker's Gas still has the best pricing IMO.

I normally use Washington Alloy as my LWS stocks it and has it for sale by the lb. This may have changed since Praxair bought them out, I'm not sure. They still had the rack of WA in the front when I was there last about 4 or 5 months ago...However, online it's hard to find so I bought Blue Demon last night. I didn't want to buy 10 lbs. of filler off the bat, until I find what I will like to use.

[Oscar]

7075 no unless you some how have super exclusive access to the nano-particle filler wire that was invented a year or two ago.

[TraditionalToolworks]

7075 no unless you some how have super exclusive access to the nano-particle filler wire that was invented a year or two ago.

No, don't have any exclusive access and I've heard that's hard to find, although a quick google showed one guy said he pulled some out of his arse...

I am not sure if SIMS is open during the shelter in place, but they do have *some* aluminum for sale by the pound. I have a small amount of 6061 plate, should at least let me get my feet wet...or better yet, get a puddle wet.

Now for the wait, machine is coming UPS ground...although it's free shipping. Beggars can't be choosers!

[TraditionalToolworks]

Here's a follow-up to my Primeweld, at the request of BillE. I'm not too fond of posting my welds as I am not a professional and mostly because these are also my very first alu welds I've made. But I just want to show the machine does work for me. I can probably be harsh on myself here.

Got the welder a few days ago and got out in the shop a couple eves to test it out on carbon steel. Welded some 1/16" carbon steel coupons, no real issues for me, had a very smooth arc, it was responsive...etc..I did spend some wasted time in trying to figure out the knobs, most of which do not do too much with the pedal plugged in... (no worries)

Haven't tested any stick as I have an issue with my garage, the springs on one side snapped so I can't open the garage door, and I am not wanted to test stick without some ventilation. Some irony here as stick was one of the main reasons I was holding off...

All said, I need to get some hood time in on alu, but that's probably true for my steel as well. I am more than happy with the welder for $775, I think it would be hard to find a comparable welder other than the AHP with similar features unless spending $1200-$1500 for another green weenie. Not a lot of options in this low end. Probably would get better stick capability in a $1500 green weenie (i.e., E6010) at twice the price.

This is no Miller Dynasty or HTP build wise, it's an inexpensive Chinese inverter, but probably a very good machine for anyone working in their home shop as I am. I do hope to have a better welder one day when finance permits.

[TraditionalToolworks]

Got a little bit of hood time in tonight, getting rid of my scrap angle.

I'd like to get some 4943 filler or 5356 filler to compare.

[Simclardy]

Don't worry about posting pictures. You will get better. It looks like a great starter. You said it, time under hood=better welder.
If you divided the cost by your hood time over the next year, i think it will be a good value.
Cheers

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

[cj737]

You’re heat soaking the material. More amps to start 140-175, get a puddle then taper back to keep it wet only. More filler shoved in. Quench the material between beads in a bucket of cold water. Use 3/32 filler. It’s a lot more convenient for practice.

[TraditionalToolworks]

Don't worry about posting pictures. You will get better. It looks like a great starter. You said it, time under hood=better welder.

Agree 100%, and don't think I'm gonna bombard you with pics of my crappy welds, mostly wanted to show people in this thread that it's not burning up my metal and I think that says something for the level of welder that I am.

If you divided the cost by your hood time over the next year, i think it will be a good value.

I would say a better value than my Everlast, but I would also say it was a good value and it offered me a way to get into tig. I understand the difficulty in tig and the fact of how awkward it is for most of us. The Everlast at least helped me get over that initial hump. I see a lot of people posting crusty burnt pics of their first tig attempts. There is certainly a curve, which I'm not over, but luckily I'm not at the beginning.

I'm relying on folks like you for help!

[TraditionalToolworks]

You’re heat soaking the material. More amps to start 140-175, get a puddle then taper back to keep it wet only. More filler shoved in. Quench the material between beads in a bucket of cold water. Use 3/32 filler. It’s a lot more convenient for practice.

Ah, I do have a bucket of water but haven't been using it. I keep it there in case of fire or other, but good reminder I should dunk the piece in there.

Yes, it's getting hot and how I blew that hole in that piece from the other side. Have also cracked a couple pieces due to heat... I will try the technique you mention, raise the amps, start out higher and taper it back. What about in regard to pumping the pedal? I've used that technique before to provide a pulsing effect. I have even tried pulse on this welder to be honest and just keeping the pedal even for the most part.

I will use 3/32" filler, it does seem easier for me. I will also get some 4943 or 5356 filler also, you mentioned you use 4943 quite a bit I believe.

I'm not a pro, so try to heed the advice from people who do this a lot, like you, Josh, Simclardy, et al. In fact, I hadn't really considered the Primeweld until I read your comment up near the top of this thread. I'd much rather have an HTP and thought I would hold out for one. With the shelter in place I just wanted something I could start aluminum with and probably, although I don't like to admit it, my angst towards Everlast for the crappy service and support. Most of my projects will probably be steel. I am happier with this welder than my green weenie, but still, as I mentioned it was a help to me to get started with tig and it still works perfectly fine to this day.

[Simclardy]

One suggestion that might help is to run some beads without filler to get some muscle memory on pedal action.
Pumping the pedal will probably just add another difficulty at first but at the end of the day it's fine, just keep practicing.
I don't do it for a living, but i try to learn every time. I always want to improve.
Cheers

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

[TraditionalToolworks]

One suggestion that might help is to run some beads without filler to get some muscle memory on pedal action.
Pumping the pedal will probably just add another difficulty at first but at the end of the day it's fine, just keep practicing.
I don't do it for a living, but i try to learn every time. I always want to improve.

I've had some good luck with pumping the pedal on square tube miter projects over the past couple years. Had good enough results I didn't need to grind them and didn't feel embarrassed. What I do is only weld on the sides of the tube, and and I grind a bevel on them. The most difficult is the inside corners. On the outside I leave them sharp and don't bevel them, then just run the tig torch down and seal them in so it looks clean. Even if I didn't weld the inside corners, just the face miters would get me enough strength. On some I have left the inside corner un-welded, seems strong to me.

I've done some pulse in the past but feel it's kind of a crutch, but it is easier and gets decent results, so in that regard maybe just yet another tool to have in the bag of tricks.

[cj737]

If your machine has Pulse, then stop bumping the pedal. Learn to use the pedal to gradually increase and taper off when you're welding.

If you're getting cracks, mostly those occur due to snapping out of the weld at the end (see all the fisheyes in your beads?). You need to add a bit more filler at the end, begin tapering the heat a dab or two before finishing, and then hold the torch over the end to wash it with argon while it cools. This makes a huge difference.

For pulse on your 1/8" material, try these settings:

200 Peak
1.2 PPS
40% BKGND
Full pedal

That will give you a good hot blast, and stiff chill, and a slow enough pulse rate that you can focus on the puddle and filler without playing the pedal. Shove filler in there too.

I always like to scribe my material to run drills. Make parallel tracks about 1/8" apart leaving room between sets. You only need 6-8" long pieces of flat stock. Make your beads fill to reach-but not extend past the width of the tracks. Lay beads between these tracks. This will help you watch the puddle and understand how much filler you need to add. It will also build very good consistency on your fine motor control (tiny muscles in your hands).

Dunk between sets, dry. Repeat. Get back to us when you've laid 50# of 3/32

[TraditionalToolworks]

cj,

Thanks for the tips, I will follow them and hope to improve some of my techniques.

I wanted to post this pic in case anyone has the old Primeweld and doesn't care for the pedal. This guy does a pretty nice and simple mod for the old pedal. I've seen some of his other videos, some are pretty humorous. Not sure what's up with the Russian accent and the vodka affiliation, but he doesn't us the accent in this video.

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