I would like to know if this is a good welder? I've already agreed to purchase the machine so hopefully the answer is yes Oh well I thought about asking the forum after I agreed so either way I don't believe in backing out on my word. That being said we have agreed on $200 which seemed like a pretty good price and it is supposed to be a functioning machine. The guy I'm buying it from doesn't use MIG so I think he just wants it out of the way. I was looking at the manual and this thing seems like a beast (195 lbs). So any help you can give on quality of welder and what parts tend to break would be good or pitfalls to look for. The gentleman I'm getting this from said it hadn't been used in a while and was used in an auto body shop prior to him getting it about 3 years ago. Thanks for the info,
I don't know the history or reputation of the thing, but usually transformer machines are pretty reliable. It appears to be a bit old, but a versatile box. Mostly a MIG box, but capable of TIG, probably only Scratch start. Doesn't appear to have a high duty cycle either. For $200, its probably worth owning
It runs however I haven't had a chance to weld with it yet. The guy I bought it from got it free and then tried to run flux core wire with it set up for solid. I think he was also running 0.024 when the rollers are set for 0.030 or 0.035. Not entirely sure, as my handle implies I have twins that I take care of, so haven't had a chance yet to really look closely at everything. I plugged it in at the guy's house to make sure it turned on and spun the rollers but that's about it. I have another question. I noticed that the parts for the torch are kind of expensive and was wondering if it would be worthwhile to switch out the Snap On torch for an HTP torch? I was also wondering if the HTP flexible neck torches are good or not? I'm trying to get a small fabrication shop started so I was thinking the flexible neck could be handy. Thanks for the help everyone I really appreciate it. I did offer to let the guy keep the welder after I told him why it didn't work but he said he was happy using his stick machine with 1/16" 6024 electrodes. I'm a Newb so I didn't know that they made 6024 or that you could get them in 1/16". I thought it was interesting. Once again thanks for the help,
Typically, the torch is easily swapped. You need only verify what size you have currently (I suspect a 17 or 20) air-cooled. A flexible head torch is very handy, but, you MUST also get a gas valve backed type. Your machine doesn't have a solenoid to initiate gas flow (Argon for TIG) when you strike an arc. So you have to open the valve, then arc, weld, then close the valve.
(this is a link to what I'm referring to) https://store.cyberweld.com/weavatigtopa1.html
I finally got the machine wired up and after some initial stupidity on my part the machine welds really well. About the only issue is that the gas solenoid seems to be a little sticky but I think that will clear up over time. I'm thinking about changing the liner in the gun and was wondering about where would be the best place to purchase one and how to size it. I ask the size question because USA Weld has a couple options but one says for 0.024-0.030 while the other says for 0.035. I rarely use 0.024 but it seems odd that the one liner only covers 0.035. I usually use 0.030 but would like the option to use 0.035 as well as most of the the tips that I got with the machine are either 0.035 or 0.045. Right now I'm running 0.030 wire and it seems a little tight in the gun hence the reason I was thinking that the liner might need to be changed. Maybe it's just because the machine sat for 3 years or so without use. Either way I would appreciate some opinions on which liner or what brand of liner would be best for my set up. Thanks for all your help guys it is very much appreciated,
Thanks. That's what I was thinking about doingthat but didn't know if it would work. I was practicing with the machine this evening and noticed that most of my beads were very porous. After double checking my settings I cranked up the CFH but that didn't seem to help at all. So it took the diffuser out and flushed it with air and put everything back together and still no help. Now I'm wondering if I might need a gas solenoid. One other thing that I noticed is that after adjusting the flow rate on my gauge I have to close it or the tank because the flow doesn't stop when the machine is off? I pressure tested the inlet hose into the machine with my lungs prior to hooking up the bottle and didn't notice any leaks so I was curious if this is normal? My Harbor Freight machine came with a Harris gauge ball type valve as well but it didn't leak down when I turned the tank valve off unless I hit the trigger on the gun. I'm afraid that's the only other Mig I have used so I don't know what if this is normal or not. I expected a couple issues with the machine I just want to know what I need to fix so I can get to laying some good beads. Thanks for all your help,
Sounds like your solenoid is the issue. You should only be flowing gas with the tigger pulled and the tank open. If the gas is still flowing after releasing the trigger, or the machine is off, the solenoid must be stuck open.
I pulled the right side panel off and sure enough the gas solenoid was cracked. Just to make certain I turned the gas on and I could hear it leaking. I'll order a new one tomorrow and probably get a new liner for the gun as well. Thanks for all your help everyone.
So I have a new liner in the gun and I have installed a new gas solenoid. I used Jody's technique for measuring the wire feed speed for each setting so that is known. Now the only thing I don't know is what does each heat setting stand for? I'm guessing that at one time there was a chart for it but there's nothing in the manual and no chart on the welder. I'm hoping that someone who has one still has that chart and can let me know as it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks everyone for your help,
For the heat/dial, divide the OCV by 12 to get an approximated value per increment. Or use a meter to measure the output.
For wire speed, time the output and measure it for every 10".
MIG welding is more "feel and eyes" than dials. How the weld sounds and looks drives the decision about heat/speed but that comes with more experience. Older machines don't have "autoset" features, so you'll have to do some experimenting to get it right.
Thanks for the reply. I did get the wire speed all figured out. I think I was having some ground issues because I took some bare 6 gauge copper wire and wrapped it around my ground and then did some adjusting of the stick out (along with running the 0.030 wire through my finger ) and after that the welder seemed to run a lot better. Now it is putting down some very nice looking beads if in my inexperienced hands so I'm very happy. Thanks to everyone for all your help with this adventure I really appreciate you all taking your time to help me out.
Oh well I thought about asking the forum after I agreed so either way I don't believe in backing out on my word. That being said we have agreed on $200 which seemed like a pretty good price and it is supposed to be a functioning machine. The guy I'm buying it from doesn't use MIG so I think he just wants it out of the way. I was looking at the manual and this thing seems like a beast (195 lbs). So any help you can give on quality of welder and what parts tend to break would be good or pitfalls to look for. The gentleman I'm getting this from said it hadn't been used in a while and was used in an auto body shop prior to him getting it about 3 years ago. Thanks for the info, 
) and after that the welder seemed to run a lot better. Now it is putting down some very nice looking beads if in my inexperienced hands so I'm very happy. Thanks to everyone for all your help with this adventure I really appreciate you all taking your time to help me out.