[Danylo66]

Hello, 100 A may be not enough for the 3/32 (going up I use 105 110A with 7018 rods)

Your welder if the actual model have 70v Ocv (open circuit voltage)
https://www.everlastgenerators.com/site ... 40ST_0.pdf
seem to have correct capacity for a small unit, even 6011 can be used thay say.

You are may be loosing amps because of the electrical circuitry ?
The kitchen oven do it OK , because the real cooking of those rods is to make code work,if you have less heat, dry longer, but what happen when you get your rods hot from the oven is that they attract the moisture of the air, so this is the moment to put them in a sealed box.

It is moderately humid here and I use Lincoln 7018 -1, as I said among the cheapest rods for about 23€ for the large packet of about 4,6 KG (and they are resistant to moisture at least somehow)

You may want to try your 3/32 rods at the max amp rate written on the box 90 100 A ?

The rod should go glowing red before the end may be the last third. If not your inverter is cheating .

To do so with the 1/8 you need 160A unless those are 6013 1/8 with a max allowed of 120A , so in that case use the max , again the rod should glow red before its end .

if you have not enough amps the 1/8 7018 will stick easily

The Open current level is written on the identification card of your welder



Regards

Okay I'll give that a try. The kitchen oven that is. The machine does not seem to have a problem with 1/8 inch rods. I set it to about 105 amps and it burns in nicely. 6011 rods however, this machine does not weld with them. It's a he'll of a mess. Spatter like crazy and in the end there is no am at to cover and protect the weld. I'll try the kitchen oven tomorrow. Thanks again.

Sent from my SM-A520W using Tapatalk

[Danylo66]

Hello, 100 A may be not enough for the 3/32 (going up I use 105 110A with 7018 rods)

Your welder if the actual model have 70v Ocv (open circuit voltage)
https://www.everlastgenerators.com/site ... 40ST_0.pdf
seem to have correct capacity for a small unit, even 6011 can be used thay say.

You are may be loosing amps because of the electrical circuitry ?
The kitchen oven do it OK , because the real cooking of those rods is to make code work,if you have less heat, dry longer, but what happen when you get your rods hot from the oven is that they attract the moisture of the air, so this is the moment to put them in a sealed box.

It is moderately humid here and I use Lincoln 7018 -1, as I said among the cheapest rods for about 23€ for the large packet of about 4,6 KG (and they are resistant to moisture at least somehow)

You may want to try your 3/32 rods at the max amp rate written on the box 90 100 A ?

The rod should go glowing red before the end may be the last third. If not your inverter is cheating .

To do so with the 1/8 you need 160A unless those are 6013 1/8 with a max allowed of 120A , so in that case use the max , again the rod should glow red before its end .

if you have not enough amps the 1/8 7018 will stick easily

The Open current level is written on the identification card of your welder



Regards

Okay I'll give that a try. The kitchen oven that is. The machine does not seem to have a problem with 1/8 inch rods. I set it to about 105 amps and it burns in nicely. 6011 rods however, this machine does not weld with them. It's a he'll of a mess. Spatter like crazy and in the end there is no am at to cover and protect the weld. I'll try the kitchen oven tomorrow. Thanks again.

Sent from my SM-A520W using Tapatalk

[olek]

Hello, slight correction, 105A I use for welding uphill a corner. (because heat raise , the piece will get very hot soon)
Flat, 7018 will weld better at 115A.. (up to 120 down 110) - corrected by your 15A cheat to test

if when it is said 105 you only have 90 you are too low in amps
the bead shape and how it goes is supposed to tell us if the amps are good.
Those rods like to have enough amps it also dry them sooner when welding

your welder have automated arc force, so even with too little amps it may add some amps when you get a very small arc.

You have a nicediscussion on how to check if your welder provide the amps it display :

http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?73 ... Stick-guys

look at that nice table with amps http://weldingweb.com/attachment.php?at ... 1512313058

[olek]

Here are welds done with 7018-1 Lincoln

I did not weld for 2 months (just once) so the first thing to me is padding
Here 2G position . WIth 2 small pieces of steel I an burn rods for hours

As you can se there is no porosity

3/32 98A




THen after on hour 1/8 110-115 A (the hand begin to be more steady, and the eye see better the puddle







Feel good after 2 hours, tomorrow I will fulfill that angle with 1/8
I think it is the simplest method to learn (whith a few tricks from the forums)

Usually I grind as soon as a bead is wrong, so the next have chances to be better, but here it was late so I had to leave my starts (I sticked a few times) and the waving straight beads

[Danylo66]

Here are welds done with 7018-1 Lincoln

I did not weld for 2 months (just once) so the first thing to me is padding
Here 2G position . WIth 2 small pieces of steel I an burn rods for hours

As you can se there is no porosity

3/32 98A

Okay cool. I'll try again but not sure how to post pictures using tap talk.

Sent from my SM-A520W using Tapatalk

[Danylo66]

Here are welds done with 7018-1 Lincoln

I did not weld for 2 months (just once) so the first thing to me is padding
Here 2G position . WIth 2 small pieces of steel I an burn rods for hours

As you can se there is no porosity

3/32 98A

Okay cool. I'll try again but not sure how to post pictures using tap talk.

Sent from my SM-A520W using Tapatalk

[olek]

Here are welds done with 7018-1 Lincoln

I did not weld for 2 months (just once) so the first thing to me is padding
Here 2G position . WIth 2 small pieces of steel I an burn rods for hours

As you can se there is no porosity

3/32 98A

Okay cool. I'll try again but not sure how to post pictures using tap talk.

Sent from my SM-A520W using Tapatalk

You use the tag but you need a link to the picture. Not all links work from my cell phone (your images should be public first)
It is easier from the puter so I wait to be home to send pics.

Something is Wong with your Tapatalk as it send twice..
Regards

[Danylo66]

Here are welds done with 7018-1 Lincoln

I did not weld for 2 months (just once) so the first thing to me is padding
Here 2G position . WIth 2 small pieces of steel I an burn rods for hours

As you can se there is no porosity

3/32 98A

Okay cool. I'll try again but not sure how to post pictures using tap talk.

Sent from my SM-A520W using Tapatalk

You use the tag but you need a link to the picture. Not all links work from my cell phone (your images should be public first)
It is easier from the puter so I wait to be home to send pics.

Something is Wong with your Tapatalk as it send twice..
Regards

I Don't know what it's doing it gives me an error message when I try to send. I'll send pics using the comp.

Sent from my SM-A520W using Tapatalk

[Danylo66]

Here are welds done with 7018-1 Lincoln

I did not weld for 2 months (just once) so the first thing to me is padding
Here 2G position . WIth 2 small pieces of steel I an burn rods for hours

As you can se there is no porosity

3/32 98A

Okay cool. I'll try again but not sure how to post pictures using tap talk.

Sent from my SM-A520W using Tapatalk

You use the tag but you need a link to the picture. Not all links work from my cell phone (your images should be public first)
It is easier from the puter so I wait to be home to send pics.

Something is Wong with your Tapatalk as it send twice..
Regards

I Don't know what it's doing it gives me an error message when I try to send. I'll send pics using the comp.

Sent from my SM-A520W using Tapatalk

[olek]

When you will be "padding" have a bucket of water to "quench" and get rid of the extra heat.

every 2 or 3 beads with 2/32 , every 2 with 1/8 ; Just a fast pass in the water, no need to get totally rid of the heat you need some to dry the pieces.

I suggest that you begin with medium amps regulation, for instance 95 for the 2/32 on 1/5^steel , then raise amps 5 by 5 until the slag peels of almost by itself (you must go slow enough to obtain this)
Then look if there is not too much heat, (no undercut , not too much spatter, I have almost zero with the amps I use, not at the max) Note the good regulation for next time

Try to have steel at least 5 mm (1/5 ") it is harder with thinner steel.
hold the stinger as a brush for painting, very quietly, and focus on the puddle (not the arc, but with 7018 there is a cone at the tip of the rod so the arc is not very bright, you feel it is very small as 1-2mm but part of the arc is in the rod.)

The first motion to learn, it is an easy one, take a 80 degree angle with the stinger horizontal (for instance) and simply lower your arm while the rod go smaller. This create an even advance.
If your angle is too large you will advance too fast, the only thing is to be sure the puddle do not pass the rod.
I used a 85 degree, to 80, angle when padding (the first bead in the corner I had a too strong angle , did not see the puddle well enough in the center and it is too thin)



Very important not to start "cold" so once the rod is lightened make a small circle to create the puddle, if , as many beginners, you begin to advance without seing the puddle the rest of the bead will not have enough heat; You really need to see a pool of weld, round, a little ovale, size 2x to 3x the weld of the rod , when you advance it must follow., if not and it enlarge there is too much amps or heat. (or you are too slow, but this is rare, beginners have the other tendency, to rush)

When I was beginning I find easier to make beads from the upper top toward me (on a flat piece, you can incline it a little)
But in real life I doubt we often weld in that direction. Anyway for padding, all directions should be explored I think.

Good beads !