[snoeproe]

I briefly owned an older ac/dc TBolt like yours several years back. They are great machines. Will burn almost any rod out there. They run 7018 real well. As far as mild carbon steel, all you need is 7018 and 6011 for electrodes. I can’t remember if the TBolt ran 6010 well?
On my 250 Lincoln, I use 7018 and 6010 90% of the rods it burns.
I weld a pile of 1/8” sheet metal these days with 1/8” 6010 rod (Lincoln 5p+ only) I find it much easier to weld the lighter sheet metal with the fast freeze cellulose electrode versus welding it with 7018.
That’s all I buy, 6010 and 7018. I don’t bother with that other stuff.
Fixing holes is nothing to worry about. You need to get yourself to the point that you can recognize when your about to burn through and either whip out (If your using cellulose rod) or break your arc if your using an iron power or low hydrogen rod so that you don’t burn through. With enough practice you will get there.

I need at least a 3 amp adjustment to see a slight change in my heat. 5 amp adjustment for a noticeable change in heat. That’s me anyway. You need to be able to notice your changes in amp settings on the machine and how they change the behaviour of your weld puddle. That come with more experience.

[Poland308]

Every amp adjustment knob will be a little different. But try to only go 3 to 5 amps at a time. You should be able to see a difference even with adjustments that small. If you don’t then it migh be more of a technique problem.

[Oscar]

Repairing a blown hole with a stick electrode sucks, but I been there a couple of times. Way easier with a fast freeze like a E6010 or E6011. Can also be done with other rods, but the more fluid weld pool that you get with other rods makes it tougher ; depending on the thickness of the part, you almost need a sacrificial steel part right next to it, so you can whip out to let the puddle cool, without having to extinguish the arc so then you can go right back to it to fill it and add more metal. I don't recommend it at all, lol. As for amperage adjustment, I can barely tell 5A, more like 8A for me to tell the difference.

[jtap]

Good information. Thanks.

Would it be ok to switch from say a 7018 where I blew through to a 6010/6011 faster freeze rod to try to fill the hole, is that an acceptable thing to do?

Also, should I always clear the slag after I stop welding before starting again? These are the type of things that the welding videos don't usually show me because these guys are doing near perfect welds. If I'm pulling off because I feel like I'm about to blow through and need to restart, what are the "rules" on how to do that? Wait for it to cool? Quench it? Clear the slag and wire wheel it?

I know that all my practice has been the easy stuff (straight lines and outside fillet welds) but I have this job I want to do which is inside corner welds. I don't even have the tools yet to be able to grind those down. I need to buy a very hard (tungsten/carbide) bur bit for my dremel from the research I have done so far. Those inside corners are going to be much tougher than the stuff I have been trying so far.

Just thought of something else...I know seeing the puddle is super important but sometimes I have a hard time with it. I get a lot of light coming in my helmet (from the back side) and it just seems too bright in my helmet and hard to see the puddle sometimes depending on the sun and positioning. Maybe I am being too scared of the light and have it set too dark. For the rods we have talked about running...what shade level would you guys run? Maybe I should have different settings that would better allow me to see the puddle. That could be just as important as all these other things, maybe more so. These are the settings possible on my helmet:

Another thing I thought of which ties in to oscar mentioning a piece of "sacrificial steel" is, can I use a piece of copper plate with these rods like you can with tig welding to run off onto when you are done running a bead?

[tweake]

Good information. Thanks.

Would it be ok to switch from say a 7018 where I blew through to a 6010/6011 faster freeze rod to try to fill the hole, is that an acceptable thing to do?

i say no because that ruins the point of using a low hydrogen rod. generally let it cool helps a lot and you often can repair with the same rod your using.

Also, should I always clear the slag after I stop welding before starting again? These are the type of things that the welding videos don't usually show me because these guys are doing near perfect welds. If I'm pulling off because I feel like I'm about to blow through and need to restart, what are the "rules" on how to do that? Wait for it to cool? Quench it? Clear the slag and wire wheel it?

cleaning the slag off is always best practise. with some welds in some situations you may even need to grind the stop.

Just thought of something else...I know seeing the puddle is super important but sometimes I have a hard time with it. I get a lot of light coming in my helmet (from the back side) and it just seems too bright in my helmet and hard to see the puddle sometimes depending on the sun and positioning. Maybe I am being too scared of the light and have it set too dark. For the rods we have talked about running...what shade level would you guys run? Maybe I should have different settings that would better allow me to see the puddle. That could be just as important as all these other things, maybe more so. These are the settings possible on my helmet:

Another thing I thought of which ties in to oscar mentioning a piece of "sacrificial steel" is, can I use a piece of copper plate with these rods like you can with tig welding to run off onto when you are done running a bead?

light coming in the back is a problem. sometimes put a cloth over the back of your head to block the light.

i run shade 10 for a lot of stuff, but it varies depending on lighting conditions, amps used and how reflective the material is.

delay setting for when it turns off. set it a bit on the long side you don't get flashed by an accidentally restart.

run off plates can be steel, usually tack them on to the bit your welding. then grind off when finished. there is a few vids on using them.

[Poland308]

It is common to fill a hole with 6010 and then pad beads of 7018 over top.

[Oscar]

Good information. Thanks.

Would it be ok to switch from say a 7018 where I blew through to a 6010/6011 faster freeze rod to try to fill the hole, is that an acceptable thing to do?

Also, should I always clear the slag after I stop welding before starting again? These are the type of things that the welding videos don't usually show me because these guys are doing near perfect welds. If I'm pulling off because I feel like I'm about to blow through and need to restart, what are the "rules" on how to do that? Wait for it to cool? Quench it? Clear the slag and wire wheel it?

I know that all my practice has been the easy stuff (straight lines and outside fillet welds) but I have this job I want to do which is inside corner welds. I don't even have the tools yet to be able to grind those down. I need to buy a very hard (tungsten/carbide) bur bit for my dremel from the research I have done so far. Those inside corners are going to be much tougher than the stuff I have been trying so far.

Just thought of something else...I know seeing the puddle is super important but sometimes I have a hard time with it. I get a lot of light coming in my helmet (from the back side) and it just seems too bright in my helmet and hard to see the puddle sometimes depending on the sun and positioning. Maybe I am being too scared of the light and have it set too dark. For the rods we have talked about running...what shade level would you guys run? Maybe I should have different settings that would better allow me to see the puddle. That could be just as important as all these other things, maybe more so. These are the settings possible on my helmet:

Another thing I thought of which ties in to oscar mentioning a piece of "sacrificial steel" is, can I use a piece of copper plate with these rods like you can with tig welding to run off onto when you are done running a bead?

Depending on how the puddle ran, sometimes the termination of the weld bead doesn't have slag covering it. It is always a good practice to clear the slag near it, but depends on the project. If it's a BBQ pit (for example), and the puddle termination is clean & clear of slag, then I can re-start right there and it won't matter. Obviously for load-bearings structures, it's quite different. One "trick" that can sometimes work depending on the rod, is to long-arc it. When you long arc it just the right amount, it increases the arc voltage to the point where the arc flares out and helps slightly push the slag back just a little bit more than usual. This can help clear the slag perhaps just enough if you need it to. Again, it depends on the rod as they all run just a little bit different, but generally speaking I have found this to be the case. You don't want to long-arc it too much or too long though, since the you can get large BB's deposited.

To grind inside corners with a dremel will be an exercise in futility. It just won't have enough power. Straight air die grinder with a long taper aluminum oxide grinding stone is what I would do.

You can use a chunk of copper, but that is generally a lot more $$$$ than a small piece of thick steel. If you're willing to sacrifice $$$$, then go ahead, lol.

For the light coming in from behind the helmet, the best I have encountered is this:

https://www.amazon.com/Black-Stallion-J ... B07P9VL7HK



I bought strips of velcro from Home depot. One half attached to the helmet. The other half that attached to the hood, I had to use adhesive (like gorilla general adhesive, like "goop"), and then I stapled them, because the velcro adhesive is not enough to attach to cloth, just smooth clean surfaces. This way I can attach and detach from the hood when I put the jacket on, or take it off. It completely blocks out ALL light. I highly recommend it.

[Chris C]

I don't get it, Oscar. Your link takes me to a welding jacket. Only thing I can figure is it mentions the jacket has a hood. Is that what you've modified to attach to the helmet with Velcro?

[TraditionalToolworks]

I don't get it, Oscar. Your link takes me to a welding jacket. Only thing I can figure is it mentions the jacket has a hood. Is that what you've modified to attach to the helmet with Velcro?

You need to use your imagination! (or get creative)

How about this:

https://www.amazon.com/Black-Stallion-A ... ref=sr_1_4

[jtap]

i say no because that ruins the point of using a low hydrogen rod. generally let it cool helps a lot and you often can repair with the same rod your using.

cleaning the slag off is always best practise. with some welds in some situations you may even need to grind the stop.

light coming in the back is a problem. sometimes put a cloth over the back of your head to block the light.

i run shade 10 for a lot of stuff, but it varies depending on lighting conditions, amps used and how reflective the material is.

delay setting for when it turns off. set it a bit on the long side you don't get flashed by an accidentally restart.

run off plates can be steel, usually tack them on to the bit your welding. then grind off when finished. there is a few vids on using them.

Appreciate the info. Thanks. I turned my shade from 12 down to 11 last time I was welding. Sounds like I could probably go to 10. Delay was set to the 10 o'clock position. Sounds like you think 3 o'clock would be better.

[jtap]

It is common to fill a hole with 6010 and then pad beads of 7018 over top.

Seems reasonable, especially on some hobbyist stuff that doesn't need the 70k psi strength.

Depending on how the puddle ran, sometimes the termination of the weld bead doesn't have slag covering it. It is always a good practice to clear the slag near it, but depends on the project. If it's a BBQ pit (for example), and the puddle termination is clean & clear of slag, then I can re-start right there and it won't matter. Obviously for load-bearings structures, it's quite different. One "trick" that can sometimes work depending on the rod, is to long-arc it. When you long arc it just the right amount, it increases the arc voltage to the point where the arc flares out and helps slightly push the slag back just a little bit more than usual. This can help clear the slag perhaps just enough if you need it to. Again, it depends on the rod as they all run just a little bit different, but generally speaking I have found this to be the case. You don't want to long-arc it too much or too long though, since the you can get large BB's deposited.

To grind inside corners with a dremel will be an exercise in futility. It just won't have enough power. Straight air die grinder with a long taper aluminum oxide grinding stone is what I would do.

You can use a chunk of copper, but that is generally a lot more $$$$ than a small piece of thick steel. If you're willing to sacrifice $$$$, then go ahead, lol.

For the light coming in from behind the helmet, the best I have encountered is this:

https://www.amazon.com/Black-Stallion-J ... B07P9VL7HK

[pic]

I bought strips of velcro from Home depot. One half attached to the helmet. The other half that attached to the hood, I had to use adhesive (like gorilla general adhesive, like "goop"), and then I stapled them, because the velcro adhesive is not enough to attach to cloth, just smooth clean surfaces. This way I can attach and detach from the hood when I put the jacket on, or take it off. It completely blocks out ALL light. I highly recommend it.

Ok. Sounds like I need to get an air die grinder. Yet another thing to shop for. The hood looks like a nice long-term solution. I'll try the towel when I'm having problems and see how that does.

Your long-arcing trick sounds interesting, yet advanced. I'll give it a try and maybe use it one day.

[Oscar]

I don't get it, Oscar. Your link takes me to a welding jacket. Only thing I can figure is it mentions the jacket has a hood. Is that what you've modified to attach to the helmet with Velcro?

Yes, it's a hooded welding jacket. I needed a new jacket anyways.

I don't get it, Oscar. Your link takes me to a welding jacket. Only thing I can figure is it mentions the jacket has a hood. Is that what you've modified to attach to the helmet with Velcro?

You need to use your imagination! (or get creative)

How about this:

https://www.amazon.com/Black-Stallion-A ... ref=sr_1_4

Now that looks cumbersome, lol. Yea, in my pic it only shows the hoodie part, but it's a whole jacket. I bought the medium but I should have bought a small, the medium is like XL. Got it for $60 from cyberweld.

[Chris C]

Thanks, Alan, that works.

[tweake]

Depending on how the puddle ran, sometimes the termination of the weld bead doesn't have slag covering it. It is always a good practice to clear the slag near it, but depends on the project. If it's a BBQ pit (for example), and the puddle termination is clean & clear of slag, then I can re-start right there and it won't matter. Obviously for load-bearings structures, it's quite different. One "trick" that can sometimes work depending on the rod, is to long-arc it. When you long arc it just the right amount, it increases the arc voltage to the point where the arc flares out and helps slightly push the slag back just a little bit more than usual. This can help clear the slag perhaps just enough if you need it to. Again, it depends on the rod as they all run just a little bit different, but generally speaking I have found this to be the case. You don't want to long-arc it too much or too long though, since the you can get large BB's deposited.
.

i was trying to avoid that discussion.

it really depends on what rod your using. don't bother doing that with rutile rods as you will get slag inclusions.
with basic rods you can get away with it, but again its not best practise.
i'm open to correction as always but afaik with basic rods your actually welding through a thin layer of flux all the time.
which is why the old leave the flux on when padding beads trick works, the flux melts and your welding through it as per normal. but there is a huge debate about of thats a good thing or not.

the usual long arc trick is to strike ahead of the weld, long arc it, bring it back to the starting point, hang for a moment to pre heat, then drop it down and run. really handy for those rods that tend to run a bit cold at the start.
but this brings up another debate on if its better to clean it but let it cool down a bit before you use the next rod, or just get another rod going as fast as possible.

[jtap]

i was trying to avoid that discussion.

it really depends on what rod your using. don't bother doing that with rutile rods as you will get slag inclusions.
with basic rods you can get away with it, but again its not best practise.
i'm open to correction as always but afaik with basic rods your actually welding through a thin layer of flux all the time.
which is why the old leave the flux on when padding beads trick works, the flux melts and your welding through it as per normal. but there is a huge debate about of thats a good thing or not.

the usual long arc trick is to strike ahead of the weld, long arc it, bring it back to the starting point, hang for a moment to pre heat, then drop it down and run. really handy for those rods that tend to run a bit cold at the start.
but this brings up another debate on if its better to clean it but let it cool down a bit before you use the next rod, or just get another rod going as fast as possible.

I'm a newb and I can tell that when that base metal is hot the rods run a bit differently. So it can make it easier to start, I have noticed. I kind of like running the next rod on hot metal...I feel it doesn't change as much as I run the rod. Less variables for me considering I'm not too great at managing them all right now.

[cwby]

I do a lot of repair work on old equipment & fence work with used oilfield pipe. I nearly always run a stringer bead with 6010 in order to clean the joint & fill any holes or fitment errors (sometimes unavoidable if the piece I am repairing was torn apart by 4 or 500 horses). The 6010 will weld through rust & paint & once brushed & ground gives a good clean base to finish the weld with 7018. Mis-fit joints or holes can be filled easily by "pulsing the arc", whipping to build up the sides, or starts & stops to let the metal cool. Once the stringer is solid you can grind it smooth, taking the "wagon tracks" completely out of you like & then run 7018 pass clean.
Torch cut & saddle oilfield tubing with a coating or rust inside & you WILL have holes & gaps if you are in production mode. Fast freeze rods will allow you to fill gaps faster than grinding & fitting the junky steel. Again brush & grind the high spots & you can lay a nice 7018 cap.
Don't use 6013, but have welded with them on an AC machine. 7014 has some applications, but for me they are not needed often, but I keep some in the welding box just in case.

[Chris C]

Question:

Does 6010 freeze faster than 6011, or is the main reason it's chosen is because it cuts through rusty and painted surfaces?

Never mind...............I just remembered 6010 won't work with my AC Tombstone welder! DUH!!

[cwby]

Yeah 6010 is a DC rod. I use engine drives & DC. 6011 runs on both AC & DC. Otherwise they are about the same.

[Poland308]

Only difference between 6010 and 6011 is a few additives that allow the arc to stabilize on ac current.

[Lax.Jax]

Hi jtap,

Just to add to thee discussion. First of about the brand. I would also give +1 for Lincoln and ESAB brands for serious projects and just my personal opinion is that you should have a stick oven if you will be welding something important like structure that can endanger someone if they are to walk on it or use it in any way. Just to be safe I would use the stick oven but that is just my opinion and how I feel

For practice, you can use pretty much any brand that is not too expensive and not a total ripoff when it comes to the quality. Its best to buy a small batch of a few brands and see which work for you for practice.

http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/shi ... -rods.html <<< This is a very good source about the stick electrodes. You can learn a ton about the various types and uses

All the best!

[jtap]

Hi jtap,

Just to add to thee discussion. First of about the brand. I would also give +1 for Lincoln and ESAB brands for serious projects and just my personal opinion is that you should have a stick oven if you will be welding something important like structure that can endanger someone if they are to walk on it or use it in any way. Just to be safe I would use the stick oven but that is just my opinion and how I feel

For practice, you can use pretty much any brand that is not too expensive and not a total ripoff when it comes to the quality. Its best to buy a small batch of a few brands and see which work for you for practice.

http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/shi ... -rods.html <<< This is a very good source about the stick electrodes. You can learn a ton about the various types and uses

All the best!

Thanks for the input and the link!

[jtap]

Ran a bunch of 1/8" 6013 the other day (a bunch to me anyway, 20-25 rods) I was joining some thick metal pipe to some propane tank wall which wasn't very thick. Worked out well. They are Hobart from a 10# box.

I was playing around with these 3/32" 6011 rods and they don't want to run at all. They are the lincoln rods from the shelf at HD or Lowe's. So much sticking with them. I'm not sure what I would need to do technique wise to keep them running. Tried them on AC and DCEP. They just want to stick and when I get it going they don't want to stay going. Went from 40 amps to around 85. Tried a few settings in there. At each setting before I changed it, I ran some 3/32" 6013 (same lincoln brand) and it ran no problem on all the same settings.

I'm going to try some 7018 soon. I also have 10# of 7014 1/8" to mess with.

[Oscar]

Ran a bunch of 1/8" 6013 the other day (a bunch to me anyway, 20-25 rods) I was joining some thick metal pipe to some propane tank wall which wasn't very thick. Worked out well. They are Hobart from a 10# box.

I was playing around with these 3/32" 6011 rods and they don't want to run at all. They are the lincoln rods from the shelf at HD or Lowe's. So much sticking with them. I'm not sure what I would need to do technique wise to keep them running. Tried them on AC and DCEP. They just want to stick and when I get it going they don't want to stay going. Went from 40 amps to around 85. Tried a few settings in there. At each setting before I changed it, I ran some 3/32" 6013 (same lincoln brand) and it ran no problem on all the same settings.

I'm going to try some 7018 soon. I also have 10# of 7014 1/8" to mess with.

I'm surprised it can't keep 6011s lit. Surely it should be able to. What gauge leads are you running? Let's see a picture of your ground clamp? How are the connections inside the machine? Pristine condition? Or are they corroded to hell and back?

[jtap]

I'm surprised it can't keep 6011s lit. Surely it should be able to. What gauge leads are you running? Let's see a picture of your ground clamp? How are the connections inside the machine? Pristine condition? Or are they corroded to hell and back?

The machine is pretty clean inside and didn't have much corrosion. I had just taken it apart and cleaned all the switch contact points and the ground. This picture was from before I cleaned it.



The leads are 4 gauge. I will get a pic of the ground clamp. I could up the amps more but the machine sticker says 40-85 amps for 3/32" 6011. I have been following those guidelines. If it sticks I keep going up by 5 until it runs or until I hit the top of the range they gave me.

The plate I was using was rusty and I didn't feel like getting out my grinder to clean it (but I thought that was supposed to be ok for 6011) and the 6013 rods were running fine. Same ground clamp spot. Same amperage. The ground clamp spot was a bit rusty too.



Chart picture:

[Oscar]

Ground clamp is beefy, I have one of those on my 300A MIG. Could have just been the spot you put the clamp on. I can only assume you are holding a tight arc, ≤ 1/8"? Also are those bare aluminum(?) connectors inside the machine? If so, hadn't seen that before.