90 Amps 3/32 rod arc force at 50%
Ok I'm on a first attempt streak this week. Today I tried out 7018 uphill. I also tried a bit of 7014 and 6011. I didn't make any real attempt with 7014 and the fast freeze rods are still kickin my butt. I think I'll be making some sort of holder so I can get more comfortable. I've just been clamping things in the vise and propping my elbow on it.
90 Amps 3/32 rod arc force at 50%
90 Amps 3/32 rod arc force at 50%
Nick
I haven't done much welding with 3/32" 7018s, or 3/32" rods in general, but almost 100% of my work is welded with 1/8" 7018. That being said, your weld looks a little hot and a little fast to me. Don't be afraid to weave around a bit to keep your puddle width consistent as you're moving up, and constantly pay attention the angle of your rod, you'll get the feel for it 
. Good first effort and good luck!
. Good first effort and good luck!
Afsatcom.
Being careful about where that elbow goes.
Study welding postures.
Your lower body stance enables more options for motions of your upper body.
Relaxed shoulders, upper arms and elbows. (Imagine trying to draw or write, if the elbow and shoulder joints were stiff or locked).
Imagine a structural steel welder trying to weld around a fixed pipe joint at 45 degrees for the first few times.
That posture and coordination will need to be developed.
Tanks.
Alexa
Being careful about where that elbow goes.
Study welding postures.
Your lower body stance enables more options for motions of your upper body.
Relaxed shoulders, upper arms and elbows. (Imagine trying to draw or write, if the elbow and shoulder joints were stiff or locked).
Imagine a structural steel welder trying to weld around a fixed pipe joint at 45 degrees for the first few times.
That posture and coordination will need to be developed.
Tanks.
Alexa
Ok didn't really understand much past careful about the elbow.Alexa wrote:Afsatcom.
Being careful about where that elbow goes.
Study welding postures.
Your lower body stance enables more options for motions of your upper body.
Relaxed shoulders, upper arms and elbows. (Imagine trying to draw or write, if the elbow and shoulder joints were stiff or locked).
Imagine a structural steel welder trying to weld around a fixed pipe joint at 45 degrees for the first few times.
That posture and coordination will need to be developed.
Tanks.
Alexa
While messing with the 6010s I found out real quick that the cotton FR jackets won't stop much. Went out and got a leather jacket. My elbow was fairly close and I could feel my forearm gettin warm but nothin crazy.
KG1275,
The bead is convex. I believe it was fast but too hot don't seem right. Or is it just the pic making it look that way? And I was using a bit of an inverted U movement.
Nick
- Otto Nobedder
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Alexa makes a good point about general posture.
I've burned a lot of 7018, many times on a barge or floating dock on a busy lake, or from a fully extended boom-lift in the wind, with nothing to prop on. Having your lower body stable and comfortable makes a big difference in controlling the rod and keeping your upper body comfortable, whether you're working from a solid or moving surface. Welding a straight bead on a stationary surface while what your standing on moves 18-20 inches will wear you out fast if you're not standing in a comfortable, flexible position.
That said, I agree with KG1257. That's great for a first attempt at F3 7018. A more consistent bead will come with time and practice, but I see only one tiny spot of undercut in that pic, where the bead makes it look like you moved up a tad too far to fill in the toe below it.
If I had a picture of my first try at 7018 "up", I'd burn it...
Steve S
I've burned a lot of 7018, many times on a barge or floating dock on a busy lake, or from a fully extended boom-lift in the wind, with nothing to prop on. Having your lower body stable and comfortable makes a big difference in controlling the rod and keeping your upper body comfortable, whether you're working from a solid or moving surface. Welding a straight bead on a stationary surface while what your standing on moves 18-20 inches will wear you out fast if you're not standing in a comfortable, flexible position.
That said, I agree with KG1257. That's great for a first attempt at F3 7018. A more consistent bead will come with time and practice, but I see only one tiny spot of undercut in that pic, where the bead makes it look like you moved up a tad too far to fill in the toe below it.
If I had a picture of my first try at 7018 "up", I'd burn it...
Steve S
My vise isn't really at the best height for welding. I was on a knee reaching up. If I'de been on my feet, I woulda been bending over making it even more uncomfortable. So my next little project will be to build a small rig that I can adjust the height and position on for practicing. Anyone got any good ideas?
I guess I should also mention that I've run maybe a dozen 7018 rods total and probably need to get a better feel for it overall. That being said, I never really got an impression that the puddle was about to fall out. I could see the slag running but the metal stayed with me the whole time.
I guess I should also mention that I've run maybe a dozen 7018 rods total and probably need to get a better feel for it overall. That being said, I never really got an impression that the puddle was about to fall out. I could see the slag running but the metal stayed with me the whole time.
Nick
Remember, when out in the real world you don't always get t weld it in the most comfortable of positions.
You've got to "stick it in the corners". Just hold the rod at the toe and watch the puddle swell. Then move
swiftly across the puddle to the other toe and hold. There's no need to hang in the middle. It will fill itself.
Try to learn to weld with either hand. Some day you may have to weld it with your off hand.
You've got to "stick it in the corners". Just hold the rod at the toe and watch the puddle swell. Then move
swiftly across the puddle to the other toe and hold. There's no need to hang in the middle. It will fill itself.
Try to learn to weld with either hand. Some day you may have to weld it with your off hand.
- Otto Nobedder
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A pipe inside a pipe, with a t-bolt through a nut welded to the outer pipe, gives you infinite height adjustment. For the upper pipe, weld angle at 90 and 45*, and just tack your practice to the angle (or rig a way to clamp your vise to it). Cheap and easy way to practice any angle, position, and height.
You'll find these in practice and testing booths all over. Hell, if you act vaguely interested in taking a class, your local vo-tech or community college will give you a look for free.
Steve S
You'll find these in practice and testing booths all over. Hell, if you act vaguely interested in taking a class, your local vo-tech or community college will give you a look for free.
Steve S
bobby_dean75
- bobby_dean75
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I'll jump in here and say that I think your amperage is pretty close, or within 5 amps to the hot. I usually run 3/32 7018 at about 85 amps, I also almost always run a 6011 root pass for the joint you pictured. I've found over the last 17 years that I've been welding, by no means am I claiming to be an expert!, that 85 amps for DC-EP is really close to perfect for a mild steel weld like you've shown- ie. pipe, angle iron, heavier plate, gussets, and brackets. It allows me to run an 1/8" 6011 or 6010 root pass and goo directly to my 3/32 "hot pass" and cover with great results. My humble opinion as a Journeyman Millwright is your speed my be a touch fast for the amperage you're running. My rod angle is usually horizontal to around 15* up, or towards the direction of travel. Also as already stated, a very small "Z" weave my help fill the "toes" in and give you a bit more time to read your puddle. Keep posting pictures of your attempts, that is a great tool! Good Luck! Bobby.
williejack
- williejack
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Lot of Good Advice on This,Great First Attempt,Agree with all Advise on the MATTER ,Otto mentioned the 1 spot of undercut if you Look closer at that same area I believe You Will See a little Slag Inclusion.Also Bobby is On the Money with the Z pattern hold the corners shoot across, center will fill itself,step up about 1/16 on the z Pattern and you will be lovin it Quickly,Keep On Burning!