When I started my mobile welding rig I bought two 100ft of 2/0 leads to run SMAW on my Trailblazer 301G. This heavy cable isn't too bad to wrangle when needed, but a little on the stiff side and there are those few jobs where something lighter is all that is needed, not to mention a little more nimble in the hand. Also, grounding directly to the work can sometime pull and push things exactly where you don't need them.
In response to this minor problem, I have been on the look out for some light gauge cable I could run for those close to the truck jobs. In my search I have found the cost for such cable, even quite used stuff, to be way more than I wanted to pay. However today, while I was in my local Lowes, I found my solution. The 16ft Kobalt jumper cable set are made with #2 very flexible cable and run just under $30. While there I bought a light duty electrode holder for $7 and then to the weld shop for some Tweecos for $15. Using the black ground clamp provided, I was able to assemble a very nice set of light duty leads, good up to 250 amps, and for much less cost.
Also, a while back I made some supplemental grounding straps/clamps to help my MIG processes but have found them to be extremely useful on some stick jobs.
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Stick Welding Tips, Certification tests, machines, projects
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Everlast PowerTig 250EX, PowerTig 185 Micro, PowerArc 160STH, Miller Trailblazer 301G, Millermatic 140 Auto-Set
lazerbeam wrote:You could also add the new cables to the heavy cables at the end so you would have a light weight "whip" at the end.
Totally awesome idea!!!
Everlast PowerTig 250EX, PowerTig 185 Micro, PowerArc 160STH, Miller Trailblazer 301G, Millermatic 140 Auto-Set
fdude,
Yes I have used them and they work beautifully. Hot? Whoever told you that is misinformed. Firstly, the 2 gauge wire used in theses jumper cables is almost a half inch in diameter. Secondly, the Miller Trailblazer 301G manual, under "Selecting Weld Cable Sizes", shows this gauge wire has a 60-100% duty cycle at 200 amps, and a maximum of 250 amps at less than 60%. So based on my personal observation coupled with Miller's specification, I am quite satisfied.
Will they hold up over the course of time? So far so good, but if they fail I'll be sure to let you all know. Thanks for the inquiry, it was a good question.
Nils
Yes I have used them and they work beautifully. Hot? Whoever told you that is misinformed. Firstly, the 2 gauge wire used in theses jumper cables is almost a half inch in diameter. Secondly, the Miller Trailblazer 301G manual, under "Selecting Weld Cable Sizes", shows this gauge wire has a 60-100% duty cycle at 200 amps, and a maximum of 250 amps at less than 60%. So based on my personal observation coupled with Miller's specification, I am quite satisfied.
Will they hold up over the course of time? So far so good, but if they fail I'll be sure to let you all know. Thanks for the inquiry, it was a good question.
Nils
Everlast PowerTig 250EX, PowerTig 185 Micro, PowerArc 160STH, Miller Trailblazer 301G, Millermatic 140 Auto-Set
I just found two 50' rolls of brand NIB Hobart #2 gauge welding wire on Craigslist, for $75. total. Deals can be found, you just have to look for them. I also saw a brand new 100' lead of #2 and #1 for $75 each, but I didn't buy them because I didn't need them. Maybe I should buy them and sell them for a lot more.
"Let's light the fire an' brief on guard.". RIP Lt. Col Stan "Red Dog" Nichols. USMC. Fighter Pilot. Korea, Vietnam. MCAS El Toro.
That's a mighty fine deal there, Tombstone. I looked on Craigslist for months for such a deal. In fact, I just bought 80 LBS of 1/8 Excalibur rod for $40 and a full can of 6010 5P+ for $50. But been looking at the rod for months.
I've used my little stinger set now extensively. I took the suggestion of putting a female connector on the end of my 2/0 cable too. Works out nice. They are holding up real well and there are no heat issues. Some jobs I can back right up to and use the blue, others I just lay the blue at the job and pull enough of the big-mutha out to get the job done. It's so fine.
There is 100 ft of heavy 2/0 cable stored inside on each side of the top, long narrow boxes of my utility bed. The ground lead is on the left, and the electrode lead is on the right. Easy to deploy and keeps it safely under lock and key. The trailblazer 301G is a kickass machine with very generous axillary power source.
I've used my little stinger set now extensively. I took the suggestion of putting a female connector on the end of my 2/0 cable too. Works out nice. They are holding up real well and there are no heat issues. Some jobs I can back right up to and use the blue, others I just lay the blue at the job and pull enough of the big-mutha out to get the job done. It's so fine.
There is 100 ft of heavy 2/0 cable stored inside on each side of the top, long narrow boxes of my utility bed. The ground lead is on the left, and the electrode lead is on the right. Easy to deploy and keeps it safely under lock and key. The trailblazer 301G is a kickass machine with very generous axillary power source.
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Everlast PowerTig 250EX, PowerTig 185 Micro, PowerArc 160STH, Miller Trailblazer 301G, Millermatic 140 Auto-Set
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