I will have to edit this post in a few minutes/hours to add the pictures sorry about this, you guys should still be able to get the just of the problem.
First post here. I'm a beginner stick welder and I know basics about electrode types and what drag angle to use on different electrodes and what amp settings to use based on thickness of base metal and all that kinda basic stuff. I've gotten pretty good at laying beads, I'll include some pictures of my good beads (I'm sure they aren't perfect but for just repairing simple things around the house I'm sure they are plenty good enough, that's not saying I want to get better though). I'm practicing with things like 6010, 6013, and some of these x-ergon #106 rods I found in m grandfather's stash, and I can't find a ton of info on them but they say they are for multi-steel application and they weld surprisingly well, they are some of my favorite rods.
So I can lay a bead down, melting an entire stick and I rarely run into skips or blobs or wormholes in my beads, but when I transfer this to practicing a t-joint with the same thickness base metal and same type of electrode and adjust my drag angle (correctly) accordingly, I almost never get a nice bead joining the metal. It's always an inch here that's nice looking, then some wormholes or some just nasty looking deposit of metal. Included are some pictures of what I'm talking about. And the thing that bugs me is that it seems almost random when it messes up and when it runs good. One side of a joint will be just about perfect, and when I run the other side it'll be horrific.
I think that maybe it could be the fact that these electrodes have been around here for years. Probably 10-15 years most of them. However the fact that I can lay a near perfect bead with them makes me think that isn't the issue (even though having old electrodes exposed to atmospheric conditions isn't a good idea for any professional work). I guess there's just something I'm missing that I can't figure out myself. Maybe it's as simple as tweaking my amp setting but I've tried a lot of stuff. Like I said sometimes I get a nice looking joint, and then other times I get a horrible looking joint.
Sorry for the long post but I wanted to make sure I get you guys all the details and I hope someone can point out what I'm doing wrong, any info is greatly appreciated thank you.
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t3hPoundcake
- t3hPoundcake
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- weldin mike 27
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Hey mate,
Are you using AC or DC? If its DC its sounds as though you have some nasty arc blow going on.
mick
Are you using AC or DC? If its DC its sounds as though you have some nasty arc blow going on.
mick
- AKweldshop
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More details would help us diagnose and properly prescribe antidotes for treating your welding ailments.
What machine, polarity, current, size of rod, thickness of metal, etc etc????
Need info man!
~John
What machine, polarity, current, size of rod, thickness of metal, etc etc????
Need info man!
~John
Just a couple welders and a couple of big hammers and torches.
Men in dirty jeans built this country, while men in clean suits have destroyed it.
Trump/Carson 2016-2024
Men in dirty jeans built this country, while men in clean suits have destroyed it.
Trump/Carson 2016-2024
- Shield Arc
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A lot of things can cause this. You being new to welding, it could be you're not paying attention to arc length, rod angle, etc, etc. First thing I'd do is put those old rods away, and practice with newer rods for now. Pictures would be a big help. I know this site is a PITA to post pictures on!
- Otto Nobedder
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t3h,
You mention specifically problems with T-joints, meaning fillet welds.
Are you cleaning (grinding) the material for the "leg" of the tee on both sides AND the cut edge? Stuff that's "behind" your weld will screw you up like this.
While I agree, fresh rod will serve you better, if you're padding beads with no or little problem, I don't think the rods are the trouble.
Steve S
You mention specifically problems with T-joints, meaning fillet welds.
Are you cleaning (grinding) the material for the "leg" of the tee on both sides AND the cut edge? Stuff that's "behind" your weld will screw you up like this.
While I agree, fresh rod will serve you better, if you're padding beads with no or little problem, I don't think the rods are the trouble.
Steve S
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