Lincoln AC 225 question

682bear · Sun Mar 22, 2015 2:42 am

I just acquired an older AC 225 'tombstone'... with a problem. The on/off switch on the front of the machine will not stay in the on position. When turned on and the switch released, it springs back to the off position.

It is an older machine, in fair to good condition, with a small amount of surface rust, but no dents in the case. I have found a replacement switch online for around $55.00...

Is this machine worth repairing? Also, can the switch be disassembled and possibly repaired rather than replacing it?

It was part of a 'lot' of older welding equipment (mostly junk) that I have very little invested in, so I don't have much in it...

If I replace the switch, what is the chances that something else is wrong with the welder?

Thanks- Bear

Braehill · Sun Mar 22, 2015 4:35 am

Bear,
If you're in need of an AC welder then an older tombstone is a very good welder, almost indestructable. Is it worth a $55 dollar switch, if in all other regards it works, then I would say yes. Only you can decide if it's worth it to you.

You can take the switch out and connect the wires together and see it the welder even fires up, just use the circuit breaker as the switch or if you have a local disconnect, use it.

Len

Sun Mar 22, 2015 7:04 am

Or just throw in a heavy duty switch of another type. (if it works)

Hvacr · Sun Mar 22, 2015 10:08 am

Correct me if i am wrong please, but couldn't a plain 220 volt rated light switch be used only as ameans to determine if it is the switch that is bad. I was thinking if the switch were inserted as a testing device only that the contacts on the test switch would be able to withstand start up amps only, no welding amps of course. This would be $2.00 to $5.00 investment.

Braehill · Sun Mar 22, 2015 10:47 am

I would think that only input voltage would go through the switch other wise it would have to be able to handle the 225 amps that the welder puts out, not likely. I would think that a switch rated for whatever amp draw the welder requires would work.

Len

682bear · Sun Mar 22, 2015 11:57 am

Thanks for the replies... the idea of wiring in a different switch gives me a few ideas...

But, I think I will explore removing the original switch and seeing if it can be disassembled without destroying it first. If it can be repaired cheaply then that is my best option...

If it can't, then I may see if I can find a suitable replacement...

Thanks again- Bear

Mon Mar 23, 2015 6:56 pm

682bear wrote:Thanks for the replies... the idea of wiring in a different switch gives me a few ideas...

But, I think I will explore removing the original switch and seeing if it can be disassembled without destroying it first. If it can be repaired cheaply then that is my best option...

If it can't, then I may see if I can find a suitable replacement...

Thanks again- Bear

If you're going to pull the switch to explore a repair, I agree with a previous post... Bolt the switch wires together, tape up the connection, plug it in, and turn on the breaker. If the breaker doesn't trip, give the machine a go.

Then, you'll know if it's worth fiddling with the switch, or even replacing it.

Steve S

682bear · Mon Mar 23, 2015 10:43 pm

This morning, I removed the switch and found that it was full of dust and dirt. It is an external contact switch, so it is easy to clean and lubricate. After oiling the pivots with light machine oil and applying dielectric grease to the contacts, it works pretty well.

I haven't plugged it in yet, but just checking it with an Ohmmeter for continuity, it seems like it should work.

While I had it apart, I cleaned and greased the selector switch and the fan also...

I don't see any reason why it shouldn't work now, but won't know for sure until I plug it in and try it...

Thanks, everyone...

-Bear