[Hvacr]

Ok, well i have improved, i can almost weld a straight line. The pics are of 1/8" 7014 rod on a 3/16" plate DCEP AT 132 to 138 amps approx. the pic makes the beads look more convex than they are but given the side view pic with the rod piece to show a height comparison, are the beads too high? What else does anybody see to help me correct poor technique? Should i continue with practice 7014 beads, go on to another rod or attempt a lap joint with the 7014 next. I know anything practice wise is better than nothing but i would like to spend my time welding in a somewhat structured way so i don't keep or develop bad habits that will be harder to coRrect later.
Thanks all!

image.jpg (97.94 KiB) Viewed 1335 times

image.jpg (97.94 KiB) Viewed 1335 times

[MinnesotaDave]

I would increase your amps, start doing half overlap beads until you can make everything straight and level - pretend you are doing a buildup of a worn part to be machined flat - that would mean even fill without holes or valleys.

Once you've burned enough rods for that result - you are ready to move on to lap joints - which will go fairly quickly since you already put in your muscle-memory time on the plate padding drill.

This process saves time in the long run, and saves you money on practice material.

Keep at it

[AKweldshop]

Too cold and too fast of travel.

[Aleksi86]

dle

[Aleksi86]

That Minnesotadave tip is good. Making straight lines at the plate so deep you can see them good in helmet down. Allso try old style basic helmet different shades, I havent found Autodarkening helmet whic shows buddel near as good then like 10-11 shade old helmet. Here a pic i practised to keep my stick skils in memory 7018 Esab 125A Making that litle cirkle/loops makes thoos beads spaced much more better and traveling slow. My first welds looked bretty similar, but it takes some time to get your hand steady. If you are comfortable id vice you to start learnig welding by one hand by propping somewhere (like keeping other hand to your elbow to steady it)? Its first hard but like a packet after rods you notice how much "wider" movement you can do..Learn harder-more then others and likely you will end up been better them.

[Louie1961]

I agree with Dave...more practice. You are moving too fast on some beads in the middle of the plate. Look at the shape of the bead you are leaving behind. when you see a bead with sharp peaks or points like that, it means you are moving too fast. But don't worry it is just practice that you need. Focus on speed, rod angle and consistency. with a 7014 or 7018, drag it slow and steady...no need for jerky movements or any whip and pause type of thing. If it helps you can make really tiny lower case "e" movements, or loops or zig zags, but it has to be very small movements, not even as large as when MIG welding.

You are not yet looking at the puddle I think. Don't watch the arc, watch behind it and judge your forward speed by how the puddle is filling out. You want to keep the sides of the puddle consistent as you move forward.

[Hvacr]

[quote="MinnesotaDave"]I would increase your amps, start doing half overlap beads until you can make everything straight and level - pretend you are doing a buildup of a worn part to be machined flat - that would mean even fill without holes or valleys.

Once you've burned enough rods for that result - you are ready to move on to lap joints - which will go fairly quickly since you already put in your muscle-memory time on the plate padding drill.

This process saves time in the long run, and saves you money on practice material.

Keep at it [/quote

Thanks Dave for having a look and your good advice, left a question when responding to Louie1961 below, any thoughts?

[Hvacr]

I agree with Dave...more practice. You are moving too fast on some beads in the middle of the plate. Look at the shape of the bead you are leaving behind. when you see a bead with sharp peaks or points like that, it means you are moving too fast. But don't worry it is just practice that you need. Focus on speed, rod angle and consistency.

You are not yet looking at the puddle I think. Don't watch the arc, watch behind it and judge your forward speed by how the puddle is filling out. You want to keep the sides of the puddle consistent as you move forward.

Louie1961,
Thank you for taking time to look and respond. I too think you are right about the puddle, i got so focused on trying to make a straight line i ended up looking to the sides of the puddle and making corrections as i went. I do have a question though: when i drag the rod it feels like it is digging in deep to the metal and then comes out, sort of a bump, bump, bump feel, is this the flux coming off or is it me hesitating? I cant tell. When this dig or bump occurs if feels like i should move faster cause as i said it feels like it will go thru the plate. I guess i could tack weld two plates together to have a thicker surface, DUH! Also i think i shake too, i may be holding onto the electrode holder like a vise grip........

[Hvacr]

Too cold and too fast of travel.

Thanks for looking AKweldshop, your observations seem to be the consensus too. I want to go from A to Z without going thru B,C,D,.......etc.

[Hvacr]

[quote="Aleksi86"][quote="Aleksi86"][quote="Hvacr"]

Aleksi86, thank you for your advice and for looking at the pics. Your welds look great, something to aspire to! I too noticed the puddle is easier for me to see with a fixed shade 10 lens the auto-darkening helmet i have doesn't provide as good a view. Now if i can just remember to look at the puddle! Thanks again.

[Louie1961]

not sure what to tell you. 7014 beads should generally be smoother in appearance. You seem to be experiencing erratic travel for some reason. I would try to slow down, watch the puddle fill out on the sides, and generally try for a smoother movement/progression. Maybe work in a slight side to side motion to try and slow yourself down. 7014 shouldn't have the stack of dimes look. It should be a mice smooth bead with fine ripples.