First Timer

Angusbass · Sun Apr 05, 2015 2:03 pm

New to welding. I have a Powerarc 200ST. I was practicing yesterday. I ran some lincoln e6011 3/32 and e7014 3/32. The 6011 rods would burn really fast and would turn off on me. Couple of time the rods stuck and turn red really quick. I was running about 80 amps. The 7014 rods i had trouble keeping them on. I was using 87 amps. Puddle on the 7014 rods were more noticeable than the 6011. I was using 3/8 piece of scrap metal that was not cleaned. Could that be a problem? I was able to burn about 8 rods. Breaker started tripping. Going to have to get an electrician out here.

p4nh4ndle · Wed Apr 08, 2015 11:07 am

Angusbass wrote:New to welding. I have a Powerarc 200ST. I was practicing yesterday. I ran some lincoln e6011 3/32 and e7014 3/32. The 6011 rods would burn really fast and would turn off on me. Couple of time the rods stuck and turn red really quick. I was running about 80 amps. The 7014 rods i had trouble keeping them on. I was using 87 amps. Puddle on the 7014 rods were more noticeable than the 6011. I was using 3/8 piece of scrap metal that was not cleaned. Could that be a problem? I was able to burn about 8 rods. Breaker started tripping. Going to have to get an electrician out here.

I also recently got a 200st (instead of the vanilla Powerarc 200, but that's another story). 80amps for 3/32 e6011 is waaaaay too much. I think I had a pretty good time running that rod at about 65, maybe less. Still ended up with some charred flux one or two times.

The PA200st seems to run hotter than the old transformer buzzbox I was using previously and will let you run a really short arc length. Don't bother trying to run 6011 in the 6010 port, either (unless you're just really curious). 6011 welds fine on the normal port and seems to be ridiculously hot on the 6010.

Haven't had any chance to run 7014 with the 200st yet. Those are truly "drag rods" and, incidentally, run exceptionally well on a simple AC machine. Just let the rod rest on the base metal and pull it along at a nice steady pace (flat or horizontal) - great looking welds are your reward. Cleanliness counts with all welding, but more so with 7014, 7018, etc, than 6011/6010. Also, get some 3/32 7018; the PA200st runs those like buttah.

Definitely get an electrician to upgrade your service. Although welding can be, wiring is not a hobby.

soutthpaw · Wed Apr 08, 2015 11:32 am

Angusbass wrote:New to welding. I have a Powerarc 200ST. I was practicing yesterday. I ran some lincoln e6011 3/32 and e7014 3/32. The 6011 rods would burn really fast and would turn off on me. Couple of time the rods stuck and turn red really quick. I was running about 80 amps. The 7014 rods i had trouble keeping them on. I was using 87 amps. Puddle on the 7014 rods were more noticeable than the 6011. I was using 3/8 piece of scrap metal that was not cleaned. Could that be a problem? I was able to burn about 8 rods. Breaker started tripping. Going to have to get an electrician out here.

How much SMAW welding experience do you have? These sounds like normal beginner problems. Sounds like you are long arcing as you run the bead. Yes the cleaner the metal the better. But once started, 6011/10 will burn through dirty/rusty metal pretty good

Angusbass · Sat Apr 11, 2015 6:41 pm

First timer is correct. Thanks for the replies. How many amps are you running the 3/32 7018 rods? 1/8 7018? I went back and ran them at about the recommended amps and what a difference. I noticed that the 3/32 6011 ran good on the regular setup as well. At the moment all I'm doing is burning rods side by side for practice. Gonna take up some home projects once i can lay a decent bead.

p4nh4ndle · Tue Apr 14, 2015 1:21 am

You can use around the same welding amperage with a 3/32 7018 rod as you do with a 1/8 6011/6010. I've found it's around 90 amps. I've usually start at ~120 amps with a 1/8 7018, but usually end up bumping that up to 125 or more. I'm seriously a beginner too and sometimes make some really poo-looking welds, usually due to long-arcing, so take anything I have to say with a grain of salt. Check out Jody's videos and try to apply his tips and tricks in your practice.

Just to say I tried it, and get a feel for what the auto body guys have known for years, I ran a few 3/32 6011 rods on straight polarity (DCEN) the other day. I ran some vertical downhill beads on the edge of some 1/4" scrap. Talk about a low penetration arc!

soutthpaw · Tue Apr 14, 2015 1:38 am

Try 6013 for low penetration

ShaunBlake · Wed May 20, 2015 12:44 am

soutthpaw wrote:Try 6013 for low penetration

Without penetration, what kinda weld will you get? Is this good only to bridge gaps in sheet? (I don't get it! <sob>)

Wed May 20, 2015 1:59 am

Low peno, not no peno. As compared to other electrodes, the arc characteristics of the 6013 isn't as bitey.