[pilot2]

I need help identifying what I think is a problem with some 3/16 7014 electrodes. First a little background. I am an amateur welder at best using a 100 amp AC welder to primarily do repairs on my property and some minor fabrication. I have always used 6013 rods and they work well. About a year ago I had to make an alteration to a fence gate and I tried some 7014 rods. For me they worked noticeably better than the 6013 rods. My welds not only were functional, they looked much better than my 6013 welds. Fast forward one year to this week. I had two small fabrications that I needed to do and tried my 7014 rods. I tried two different rods and could not get an arc. The rods would immediately stick to the work no matter what I tried. I then switched to 6013 rods and was able to complete the fabrications. Cleaning up I noticed the 7014 rod coatings had become discolored apparently as I was trying to strike the arcs. The other new rods in the container are not discolored. I have attached a picture. Any help in understanding the problem is greatly appreciated.

[weldin mike 27]

Hi there,

Welcome along. So they went from working to not working over a period of time?

Moisture can effect the way an electrode runs. With the "general purpose" types you should still get a serviceable weld, but it'll run rough. Not sure why they would stop working entirely, (unless they were super soaked)

Mick

[ex framie]

With the ones in the cupboard, try putting them in the oven at 100 deg C (212 f for you stubborn Nth Americans) for a couple of hours and then try them again and see what happens.

[Artie F. Emm]

With the ones in the cupboard, try putting them in the oven at 100 deg C (212 f for you stubborn Nth Americans) for a couple of hours and then try them again and see what happens.

That "discoloration" sure looks like mildew.

I picked up a small toaster oven to recondition electrodes. I used the oven in the kitchen first time around, and learned that my wife is opposed to this activity. Go figure.

Page 2 of this document shows a reconditioning chart, with temperatures and durations.
http://www.hobartbrothers.com/downloads ... atalog.pdf

[pilot2]

Thanks to all who replied. I live in Southern California where the humidity is generally very low, but after a year in an unsealed container I guess moisture could be the problem. I will try to dry my remaining rods in an oven. I read the post where the wife objected to this. Does baking the rods create a significant smell? I also read in a post on a different topic that a moisture proof rod container can be made from PVC pipe and the correct pipe ends. I will make one of those first and then store the dried rods in it if it turns out that moisture is the issue.
Also to provide additional information: The dark areas on the rods have a bumpy texture and feel like melted black plastic, as thought the rod overheated and something in the coating melted and came to the surface. The black areas are near the clamp end of the rods and not near the arc end.

[weldin mike 27]

I think all this worry is not going to be beneficial. Unless you have a shipping container full of these rods, bin them and start again. Reconditioning rods is not really worth it at home.

Sent from my ZTE T83 using Tapatalk

[plain ol Bill]

100 amp welding machine and you are trying to burn 3/16 electrodes - there's your main problem.

[Poland308]

I had the same thought Bill. Maybe he means 3/32. I hope.

[weldin mike 27]

Another point, I bought an open box of rods from a second hand dealer. 7018s. They looked reasonable, no signs of water damage on the package, but will not weld a pinch. Porosity central. Shield arc posted a photo of doing a bend test with rods that were filled with water, dried out. People talk about "old" 7018s that have been laying around for ever, still working. Not these though, they're cactus. Tent pegs now.

Sent from my ZTE T83 using Tapatalk

[pilot2]

My mistake on the rod size. They are 3/32. Thanks again to all who replied.

[VincenzioVonHook]

I seem to be having the same problem with some murex speedex 13 rods (3/32). I purchased a Unimig 140A DC inverter yesterday and ran my first beads this morning. I had a few 6010 and 6013 (pipearc 6010 and weldskill GP 3/32) and they burned well and I was impressed by my first stick beads.

I went out later on that day and bought a new 5kg pack of murex speedex 13 rods in 2.5mm ( a few $ cheaper than the CIG weldskill 6013) and had some serious trouble starting an arc at the same 80-85 Amps I was using the CIG rods at. Constantly sticking, and when I did get an arc out of them, i had to keep the arc long as hell otherwise flux would run straight up the rod and freeze to the job. I have only pulled 10 or so beads though so it could be me. I turned the amperage up to 95A and it was plain too hot. Too much spatter, fluttery arc and glowing red within 150mm of the rod burning. Stole a couple of Cig 6013's and a CIG 7014 and 85A was back to super clean beads.

All in all, 6013/6010 and 7014 from cig work pearler on my cheap unimig 140, but murex rods, for some strange reason, don't have enough arc force to push the slag to the back of the pool (Even with a 45-40 degree travel angle!) The CIG rods are all old out of a bucket, and most of them have white powder on them......yet weld fine and pass the press and hammer treatment.

I'm pretty sure its me though, with only half an hour or less on a stick welder. I have heard nothing but good things about the Murex rods.