To whip a root or not to whip that is the question

koolkat3551 · Mon Mar 21, 2016 12:20 pm

I usually run my 6010 open root pass with a drag technique, I will start whipping in and out if it gets hot or if the fit up changes. I have seen people in the past just use a whip technique and it lays down a really nice weld bead, they also tell me that every welder should be able to whip a root pass for the simple fact that the fit up may not be good or that they can leave the same amperage to run both there root and 3/32 7018 without changing it. This would be beneficial if the machine was far away from the welding area and you did not want to waste time to bump up the amperage for the hot pass. What exactly is the best way to become efficient at whipping a root pass?

Poland308 · Mon Mar 21, 2016 5:39 pm

If I whip as needed and then switch to a 3/32 7018 I run about 75-80 amps. Maby up to 85. Unless I really need some heat.

koolkat3551 · Tue Mar 22, 2016 12:28 am

I am referring to an open root 6010. Do most people that whip a root run a little hotter?

Diesel · Tue Mar 22, 2016 1:00 am

I've done both. Gotta say, as far as I know it makes no difference is the quality of the weld. Passed cert tests with both. No need to worry about turning up or down that's what a firewatch is for. Lay the root in and finish it out.

Poland308 · Tue Mar 22, 2016 7:04 am

I was referring to the 6010 root when I said whip. For me it's more about working with the fit up that determines if I whip or not. And at 75-80 amps you can also run a 3/32 7018 with out running down to you welder to make a change.

koolkat3551 · Tue Mar 22, 2016 11:19 pm

@ diesel, that is very true, a fire watch can turn your machine up for you but it is also wise to let them know what dial to turn up and how many amperages. I told my fire watch once before to bump me up 10 but he turned the gear range I think from 75-125 to 125 to 175 or so. Long story short he bumped me up about 50 amps instead of 10. Good thing I could tell it was running way too hot to handle.

koolkat3551 · Tue Mar 22, 2016 11:31 pm

Your absolutely correct poland308, I think it is beneficial to learn how to put in a root pass with hotter settings close to 80 amps. That way after your root is put in you are ready to rock with the 3/32 7018 and don't even have to mess with your machine. I have been out of the welding game for about 6 years now, when I had my hand in x-ray quality welds I would experiment here and there to see what I could get away with. I would run my root at 1/8 gap and run about 75 amps or so, Once I got the hang of this I may bump up my amps a bit as long as I was comfortable, It does get hot at first but as soon as you get the hang of it, it seems to work better as a bigger gap will have a little more airflow and help with cooling a bit but I would only advise on 6 inch pipe and above until a person gets the hang of things. I would run my root just like I explained then jump up to 1/8" 7018 for my hot and cap and would never have any issues burning through my root or even have porosity, my thinking was running a bigger filler rod would introduce a higher amperage and would also speed up production. I guess when you are a plant hand you may have a little more freedom to experience with different amperages to find out what works and what is on the ragged edge. hopefully with much practice I can get back into the swing of things as I liked it very well looking through my welding lens for the majority of the day.

Diesel · Wed Mar 23, 2016 4:55 pm

koolkat3551 wrote:@ diesel, that is very true, a fire watch can turn your machine up for you but it is also wise to let them know what dial to turn up and how many amperages. I told my fire watch once before to bump me up 10 but he turned the gear range I think from 75-125 to 125 to 175 or so. Long story short he bumped me up about 50 amps instead of 10. Good thing I could tell it was running way too hot to handle.

If my fire watch doesn't know which dial to turn, he's probably not working for me. That does happen tho. This country is gonna crash and burn. I say we take some warning labels off some stuff and have fun. If you don't know gasoline is flammable, I highly doubt you can even read.

DLewis0289 · Sun May 01, 2016 5:14 pm

3/32 is a pretty tight gap for an 8" pipe using 1/8" rod, just run a little hotter. Depends a lot on what you are doing. For example if you are doing a WPS for a pipeline job (pipe going in the ground), you just get tight and boil the 5P down hand all the way. Powerhouse, process plant Section IX stuff what you are talking about I think, I stay right tight on the keyhole "tapping" until I start to come around to the top of the pipe (5G/6G etc). Then I might start what you call whipping, which is just adding a little distance to give the puddle a little extra time to freeze up while gravity is at work. If you see someone whipping overhead or vertical up he is racing against failure in my opinion.

Here is a 6" I set up with an 1/8" Gap / Nickel Land - 1/8" 6010 at 85 amps (Trailblazer). Nice and steady just tapping the keyhole, no whipping. One thing I didn't understand when I was young that what was the big deal over this land thing. I was my dad's and grand dad's apprentice and they would give me hell more for an inconsistent land more so than a nickel or dime. What ever you choose in land and gap take the time to make sure it is the same all around the pipe.

When welding pipe for 2000+ psig MAWP, perfect is every time, not just test time.

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