[martinr]

Lincoln Electric make much of whipping the electrode to control the heat input into the pool, for example, to control the keyhole in a root run. But they do this with cellulosic electrodes eg the Fleetweld (E6010). My understanding is that if you try this with a rutile rod (eg E6013) (and maybe a 7018 low hydrogen), there is a danger of slag entrapment in the weld. (In Lesson 1.10 of the Lincoln book New lessons in Arc Welding, they use a whipping motion both to keep the puddle hot as well as cool, but I struggle to get my head round that.)

I'd much appreciate the expert view on this.

Martin

[Otto Nobedder]

Hi, Martin,

With 6010, I've used "whipping" in repair and structural welds where the gap is not constant and I have an area wider than my electrode to fill.

I have done similar with 7018 to fill gaps, but I can't call it "whipping", as the pace is much slower. (The slow pace keeps the slag molten and reduces the risk of inclusions, though I've only done this in non-critical situations.)

If you have a good fit and a constant gap at the size of your rod diameter, there is no real need to whip a 6010 root. (At least the way I was taught.)

Your mileage may vary...

Steve

[martinr]

Many thanks, Steve, for your sound advice. It makes perfect sense. I'm sure that you are right: if the gap and rootface are correct - for the rod size and current - and the travel speed is constant and the technique is also right, there should be no need to whip, So rather than becoming adept at whipping the electrode, I should turn my energies to getting everything, especially the current setting, right for the joint conditions. Then at a later date, master whipping for those occasions when the fitup is variable.

Many thanks also for advising on the different technique with 7018s.

Martin