Lincoln 210mp and 6011

AngusinWyoming · Wed Apr 26, 2017 10:23 pm

Hello gang,

I picked up some Hobart 1/8 6011 to try and I can hardly keep it lit. Have any of you found a brand of 6011 that works better. I am sure there is some operator error, but I have burned a couple pounds of it with out much success.

What should I set my hot start and arc force to?

Thanks for any help. I will keep practicing..... Angus

Mike · Thu Apr 27, 2017 7:44 am

Angus, welcome to the forum.
Just keep at it with a short arc length.

Farmwelding · Thu Apr 27, 2017 10:29 am

Keep that rod in there like he said above

I run 6011 all day long with an old AC buzzbox and hobart electrodes. Just hoodtime. 6011s are definitely a little harder to run and keep going.

AngusinWyoming · Thu Apr 27, 2017 10:41 am

Ok I will keep at it.

The only reason I thought there was a problem (other than me), is that sometimes I lose the arc and it picks it back up again when it seems like the electrode has not moved. It was like the welder shut off for a second.

I'll keep at it. If any of you have run 6011 on the 210mp--I would love to know your settings---just trying to eliminate some variables.

Thanks gang.

Angus

MinnesotaDave · Thu Apr 27, 2017 10:52 am

What amperage and other settings are you running?

Are you on DCEP (DC electrode positive)

AngusinWyoming · Thu Apr 27, 2017 12:53 pm

Yes I am DCEP. I tried DCEN too. I went with suggested settings and then increased the amps by 5 several times trying to keep the electrode lit. I increased the arc force several times too.

I will try to determine a "good" setting and just focus on short arc length. Practice is probably the answer.

I am welding on 3/16 steel with 1/8 6011.
Angus

Louie1961 · Thu Apr 27, 2017 4:22 pm

6011s are definitely a little harder to run and keep going.

I couldn't disagree more. 6011s are made with arc stabilizers to run on AC, where the voltage passes through zero every cycle. I have always found them to be every easy to run on DC. If he is having trouble keeping them lit, then there is a problem. OP, you should be running at least 85-90 amps (maybe more), DC electrode positive. Set your arc force to at least 5, if not 7. Check that your work clamp is on the piece to be welded, and you have a good clean connection there.

Farmwelding · Thu Apr 27, 2017 4:36 pm

Louie1961 wrote:
6011s are definitely a little harder to run and keep going.
I couldn't disagree more. 6011s are made with arc stabilizers to run on AC, where the voltage passes through zero every cycle. I have always found them to be every easy to run on DC. If he is having trouble keeping them lit, then there is a problem. OP, you should be running at least 85-90 amps (maybe more), DC electrode positive. Set your arc force to at least 5, if not 7. Check that your work clamp is on the piece to be welded, and you have a good clean connection there.

It depends on where you come from to. I come from all AC starting with 6013 then to 6011. 6011 was more difficult to get used to and I've seen the same with almost every other student. Depends on the person to. We aren't all perfect at everything. All about perspective.

Louie1961 · Thu Apr 27, 2017 4:51 pm

Fair enough, everything is more difficult on AC.

Poland308 · Thu Apr 27, 2017 5:43 pm

I have the 210 mp as well. I've run 6010 and 6011 1/8 off of it. But it can be a bit touchy because it has a lower open circuit voltage than some other machines. I use a Thermal Arc 186 for most of my stick beacause it runs like 90+ volts. There was another thread a while back I posted my amps and I think a few pics about 6010 on the 210mp.