[mArc]

I'm just back from a hardware shop and an industrial and welding supplier.

The hardware shop had the ubiquitous 6013s and some 6010s, but those were only available in 3.2 mm (1/8"). Probably a bit thick for the type of plate I'll mostly be working with. But I might give them a try.

The welding supplier carries rods by Afrox (with their own codes) and Lincoln Electric "easy arc". 6013 fills 70% of all the shelves, but they do also carry 7018-1 (not sure what the "-1" stands for), 7024, and a whole range of stainless, cast iron and "problem steel" electrodes, e.g. 308 ("L", I think), 309, 312-16, 316.

BUT, what disappointed me: there were no 6010s or 6011s. They would have to order those in a package of 20 kg (40 lb)!

And 7014s, which is what I'm actually looking for, weren't even on their ordering catalog.

They gave me a handful of 6013s, to compare with my current ones, plus a few 312-16s ("problem steel"). I'm considering to buy some 7018s, but the smallest package is 2 kg (4 lb), and they're not cheap. So I'll visit some other shops too.

What I did find, was a #12 lens for my shield. I'll try this in stead of my #9.

I'll report back later. Regards to all,
Mark

[Ultralow787]

mArc,
It is interesting to read about the trouble you are having in South Africa obtaining different rods. Hard to believe, but interesting just the same. Afrox was called Canox here in Canada, and they are now Linde. In between, they reverted back to BOC gases (which represents British Oxygen Company).
It would only make sense that if your suppliers have access to a few of the rods, that they would have access to the entire product lines for each supplier.

Good luck with your search and keep us posted on your progress!

[rahtreelimbs]

For another noob I can state that 7014's are a great rod to get started with. They start/restart real easy.

[mArc]

Hi all,

Here's some more feedback.

I spoke to two of the workshops here. They mostly use Afrox electrodes, and specifically Afrox "Vitemax" is touted as the best electrode for mild steel, and this is (you guessed it!) a 6013 electrode.

Then I actually took my DC inverter welder to one of these workshops and experimented together with them. We tacked together similar test pieces as I had done, and tried different angles, currents, etc.

Firstly, I was definitely running too cold - especially for penetration of a corner. And I think that the current dial on my DC inverter is possibly calibrated too low. So we cranked the juice up. With DECP, I got a reasonably good corner penetration at an indicated 110A, but with much spatter and a rather uncontrolled arc. Then I remembered having read on the endless internet that DCEN (straight polarity) makes more heat in the workpiece, so I changed to DCEN. Here, I good quite a nice weld with about 105A on the dial. However, it was more difficult to strike the arc without it sticking.

Secondly, things appeared to get better when I changed my travel angle (drag angle) from about 30° to about 45°, "blowing" the slag away from the puddle. Still, the puddle was mostly covered with molten slag, so it was difficult to see what was going on.

I tried both my types of rods, the Eurasia 6013 and the Lincoln Electric Easy-Arc 6013. I was actually more comfortable with my original purchase, the Eurasias.

Well, at least now I know it can be done - I have a starting point from where to continue! From here, it's practice and more practice. If I get the chance, I'll post a few pics.

Thanks to all, and regards,
Mark

[GWD]

Sounds like you are on the right path.

Post up some more photos and keep us informed.

I'm not very well acquainted with 6013 but a 45-degree stick angle seems a bit too much. However, if the guys you dealt with do it that way then follow their lead.

You might try 0 to 10-degrees just to see what happens. After all it is just practice.

[GWD]

Jody's video this week is about 6013. Give it a look for some tips (and tricks).