PeteM wrote:Turn your hand back and forth while holding the stinger, don't wave your wrist like a windshield wiper.
Lift your whole wrist/arm up as you move through the weld to keep your stick angle good and prevent reaching with the electrode. That will help avoid long arcing and porosity.
And yeah, those gold lenses at #10 din will be like a whole different ball game for seeing what is happening. Will likely be a significant improvement.
Depending of the size of the electrode (here I mostly have 3/32 7018 left so no much choice) I may decide how large my motion will be, as because ther is no direct heating in the corner, the sides should be near of it enough (?)
I also try to make my left right motion whith an advancing into the corner, (sort of horizontal V ) so the arc lenght is kept the same; Is it a good way of doing ? (I am thinking, may be the longer arc when going right left allows to keep some heat into the corner, so the weld will flow in it naturally, in that case keeping a constant arc lenght will be counter productive (?)
Thanks, I am not sure I understand, I move my hand arm etc so the rod is always pointing the same direction
I did try to make a small left to right move with the wrist but as the angle change while the stick is wearing I am not sure it is advantageous
I will try to make one with the best arc placement today (I had too much undercut at the begin pass yesterday, I forget arc force it was at 20% but enough to stiffen the arc apparently
When mounting, is the goal to recover a little the precedent bead as when padding ? The precedent bead is cold at the moment I come back on one side. (I tend to place the arc at the apparent thickness of the precedent bead )
So really Z wave ? I find "natural" the feel when making a small arc (inverted smile) I suppose it allows more cooling under ?
But also with smiles extended as a small J letter, I was told this is the way for 3G with 6013 while reverted smile is good for 7018 , which one is flowing the most ? (or it is only because of the more present slag, smiles and J allow the slag to go down, while with the inverted smile 6013 would run in the precedent bead creating inclusions.
for the christmas tree my instructions are : begin at the right side then go immediately left and then move a little the angle to go in the corner a little higher with a little pause in the corner, then again right left , etc AMps 2/3 max of the ones on 1F .. (I guess the rod almost 90 deg horizontal for the sides) the intention is good penetration in the angle, as this is done with only one pass, no more beads, it may be considered a gain of time.
I probably can lower heat more, if I consider the 2/3 I may use 65Amps , I will give a try it may give better control, but the arc force may be necessary may be at 10 20% as sticking will be the norm ;Regards)
Thanks all for your encouragements, it was worth doing some training each day or almost
For instance I think raising arc force and lowering amps may fight too strong spatter while allowing enough penetration.
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