PeteM wrote:olek wrote:
I will buy a less dark screen , (the actual is numb.11 but not recent )I suppose there are different qualities for those fixed darkening glasses, may I have advantage to buy them from 3M for instance ?
Regards
That is a good idea. 3M makes good products. A #10 shade is typical for most welding parameters. 11 gives me some problems.
Its also a good idea to have a piece of suede or other type of coverage on the back of the hood to block ambient light from entering. This will reflect off of the lens and reduce your visibility (to virtually zero).
For what its worth, those welds seem to be coming along just fine.
Hello, yes good idea to add a light cloth. Indeed light coming from the back is a big hassle. BTW ' I did use very often a strong light 500w on my left.
But when natural light Is available I try to avoid the 500w.
Is it a good idea to train to use' only', the light from the arc (which can be really small when I touch the puddle or drag)
Hopefully my fixed darkness hood 3M have filtered air intake this makes it much closed, a bit heavy but only with the lcd hood I have those light réflexions.
Happy to read that 11 is too dark for you, as it is the same for me.
Yes progress.. I did make a 3F with 6013 on an old support full of slag due to bad work done some time ago.
and repair on cast iron 'open root :, using inox electrode esab 308 on the iron Very happy I did get good full penetration with not too large keyhole,and re cap correctly that pipe made of grey cast-iron. (with my first jobs on that one despite small beads I did hear some crack sounds and when I tried the 308 I had also a hot crack the first time.)
Today all went well. Hammered with the slag hammer not too strong but immediately. Those electrodes are really easy to work with. Better than the NiFe electrodes.
BTW I will V shape grey iron with the plasma cutter, the disk grinder and also milling carbure tools, and try to check with a reactive to see if the HAZ is smaller with plasma than with carbide disks.
Regards
https://goo.gl/photos/kk56g2K7wqFVWT8g8
Is that 3h acceptable? 3vpasses, different beads for the last, stringer beads and descending from the top pics.
Are the stringer beads supposed to have no drops (or almost?)
Less or more amperage than when waving up ("I'm not happy of my stringer up l
When you have slag inclusions as I did have in the upper section , is it possible to burn them descending with a thick electrode. or more chances going up? Or grinding only solution?
I have seen a problem welder using big 7016 electrodes in 2h position (to weld new wear pieces on a rock breaking machine), and he did make 3 beads (4mm), on each joint, leaving the slag.
I did do so on the block with some 6013, and the slag seem to be burned correctly.