Stick Welding Tips, Certification tests, machines, projects
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Looks good to me

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DeepSouthWelder
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weldin mike 27 wrote:Looks good to me

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Thank you very much.
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No problem mate

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gnabgib
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I was called on to do welding on universal beams supporting a 1st floor on a new residential build. The beams, around 8 IIRC had holes cut through the web at places for services, plumbing and wiring. Now I didn't know what I was expected to do until I saw the job and the beams had been heavily painted along with having builder's glue where LVL blocking was attached. The Engineer required stiffener plates attached between the flanges and at right angles to the web and either side of pipework. So space either side was around 50-80mm and no height to work with. Tight as anything with almost no proper rod angle from the sides and pretty much zero on the bottom flange, I also had no means of getting the paint or glue off. Conventional angle grinders only. I tried at first without much luck in fact they could have hired someone off the street and got the same results because trying weld with those angles, paint, PVC pipe 15mm away, AND wires was absurd to say the least and I should have walked away once I saw what I was expected to do. It's unbelievable that the services were installed before everything was checked by the engineer and what was he trying to achieve by requiring the plates when a reinforcing plate under the bottom flange would be doable and might do a better job anyway. Thoughts?
Poland308
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Gussets are a standard practice. You may have to bend your rod about half way from the stinger at odd angles to get in to some of those spots.
I have more questions than answers

Josh
gnabgib
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Poland308 wrote:Gussets are a standard practice. You may have to bend your rod about half way from the stinger at odd angles to get in to some of those spots.
Yes, maybe I'm using excuses and ok bending or using shortened rods might have been an answer but the weld on that bottom flange would have required a mirror to see what I was doing. With all the paint and glue I had amperage up 135 where normally 110-115 would have been good and was still not getting any proper or consistent arc. I've done enough site welding now to know what the possible problems are but never anything like this. My point about the gussets was, if a 200mm web has a 80mm hole cut through it then the structure of it remains the same. Anyway someone wasn't doing their job when the services were put in so I'm just a bystander in this case and paid for the day's work.
Poland308
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I've used the citric paint striper before it smells like oranges and it works in about 10 min. It just washes off with water.
I have more questions than answers

Josh
gnabgib
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Poland308 wrote:I've used the citric paint striper before it smells like oranges and it works in about 10 min. It just washes off with water.
Ok, thanks and in future I'll just have to remind myself to expect the worst;)
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When working with Architects and builders, Always expect the worst...
Poland308
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Made a pedestal mount for my vice and hopefully a future Hossfeld bender. Plan on putting some drop in anchors in the concrete if I need too. But the base is a 10in 300 lbs blind flange I pulled out of a scrap bin. The top one is a 4 in 300 lbs blind flange with a piece of 4 in sch 40 between. Welded with 7018 3/32 at about 90 amps.
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I have more questions than answers

Josh
DeepSouthWelder
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I did a little bit of trailer repair a few days ago,used 1/8 inch 7018s at 120 amps AC.
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What's the reason behind all the beads?

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plain ol Bill
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Nice looking stand Josh, but you are definitely going to want drop in anchors for a Hossfeld if you use it manually.
Tired old welder
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Red, blue, yellow, purple, and Hypertherm silver equip.
DeepSouthWelder
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[quote="weldin mike 27"]What's the reason behind all the beads?

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Mike, I have a habit of overdoing things, it makes me feel better to overdo something than to just get by .
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Poland308
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Yup I will probably put some 5/8 in drop ins in my garage and outside in the drive for those nice days. Or when I just need the space.
I have more questions than answers

Josh
gnabgib
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weldin mike 27 wrote:When working with Architects and builders, Always expect the worst...
You mean like, when at the end of the day I said I was too busy and could only do that day, he said "Well could we borrow your welder?" It's a Kemppi MasterTig, so you can guess my answer. Even if it was $200 job I wouldn't. Man, some people!
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Give me my makita..... Umm Kemppi back mate.

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Revocide
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Hi guys

Here's some welds I did at my short welding course on basic stick welding.

Cheers

Revo
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Stacking em up.
Stacking em up.
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How do you like your fillet
How do you like your fillet
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jroark
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Those look pretty good to me.
jroark
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Honest opinion time. These are some uphill stick welds I did today. Trying to dial in my machine. I've been running to hot and I think I'm getting it close now.
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Poland308
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How hot is too hot? And is that 7018?
I have more questions than answers

Josh
gnabgib
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jroark wrote:Honest opinion time. These are some uphill stick welds I did today. Trying to dial in my machine. I've been running to hot and I think I'm getting it close now.
Other than not knowing the amperage. I see undercut on the edge and by the buildup in the middle that you need to spend more time on the edges and less in the middle, and eliminate that accentuated ripple effect by tighter upward travel. So, move faster side to side but hold longer on the edges
Poland308
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That's what I noticed too. You might try less advance as you weave up.
I have more questions than answers

Josh
Boomer63
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The only comment I would add (concerning that collection of vertical up stringers) would be to say that it seems mounded up; Make sure you are going 'snap' through the middle!
jroark
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Thanks for the suggestions. It's a 7018 3/32 rod and about 75-80 amps. When I started welding I stick welded and for about eight years I've mig welded so I'm trying to knock the dust off. Thanks again.
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