Welding Tips and Tricks

Hello, can you tell me something about those beads ? they where done at 148 -158A with 6013 electrodes for the sake of going straight from left to right, which was very difficult for me at that point

I see I am doing better , going back to basics after struggling on 3F , but still have too much spatter often, I did that block while standing and holding the stringer with both hands (very supple, I noticed that helps) one hand and a 3d support should be better probably

Thanks (sorry the images are not complete, they are reduced by the forum software , the album is there https://goo.gl/photos/Kp6bKfp1K4Mk557o9 )

whip and pause, as the angle underside was a little strong and not very clean

that is my 3d month, of training alone, so I am a little slow, but not so young (just in the head
I did some decent restarts

beads not very convex , are they OK ? Thanks

Whip and pause is for 6010 and 6011.

Steady straight drag is all that is required on easy flat beads like those.

MinnesotaDave wrote:Whip and pause is for 6010 and 6011.

Steady straight drag is all that is required on easy flat beads like those.

Yes I know that, I wanted to level the bead above that portion,


I think it worked (I was not sure it could be done with 6013, but it was interesting to try)
DO you think it is important to run straight beads without ANY manipulation (even very small ? My arm is less tense if I make small moves (but I will work on that and try to run thin but precise beads)

Then , only speed is supposed to change if I see the heat going up or the puddle enlarging too much ?
Is it also better to use one hand only if possible ? (the second one is more or less passive anyway)

Regards

Slight side to side it also pretty normal.
But either way your hand should not be tense, relaxed is the key.
One hand or two hand, just relax and let the rod do its thing

If you like to do one handed, a thing that I and a lot of other people do is put your other hand behind your back and hold on to a belt loop, pocket, waist band, etc. It helps to stabilize your torso and shoulder girdle.

This is especially usefull if you are standing up and doing vertical or overhead. People wobble quite a bit, especially when their hood is down. (for any number of reasons )

Thank you for the useful tricks and ideas

I will test the stabilizing hand, indeed difficult to stay without moving when the hood is down (learned a new word, thanks

I generally use only one hand, but the second one helped nicely for the block, when in the end I switched back to one hand (but the other was grabbing the table) I felt so much the quietness of the other, that I think I will try to switch again, I think the sustained hand learns to stay quiet and can repeat the sensations later.

A good grip handle just in front and below the piece gig should be excellent. I will make that , plus a protection for the poor vice...

I had no much luck dragging whatever the rod angle used the bead was too round, and did not want to enlarge, I wonder if better than dragging, lightly touching the piece from time to time help to keep the arc lenght, providing a tactile repere.

Best regards and many thanks again