Welding Tips and Tricks

Sure does favor a Lincoln but I have no idea. Obviously copper wound because it’s HEAVY. Been burning 1/8” 6011’s with it so it works! It was in the barn when we bought our place so I’m glad it works. However, as you can see, there ain’t a mark on it making trial and error the only way to get the heat right which is a pain but doable.

My guess an old Lincoln. The copper in it is worth more than the machine.

tungstendipper wrote:My guess an old Lincoln. The copper in it is worth more than the machine.

Yep. I cringed when my sister hauled a similar one, but with a dial, that was burned up to THE DUMP! I told her she threw away a bunch of money. Made me sick.

Stoked that this one works well though. This post is an attempt to gain knowledge of how it’s intended to work in terms of which taps do what.

dirtroadoutlaw wrote:

tungstendipper wrote:My guess an old Lincoln. The copper in it is worth more than the machine.

Yep. I cringed when my sister hauled a similar one, but with a dial, that was burned up to THE DUMP! I told her she threw away a bunch of money. Made me sick.

Stoked that this one works well though. This post is an attempt to gain knowledge of how it’s intended to work in terms of which taps do what.

I wouldn't worry, most of the weight is the heavy steel core the copper is wrapped through.

Plus many are actually copper coated aluminum wire.

As it works, and if you are so inclined, it would make a nice restoration/refurb project.

Case probably needs some metalwork and repairs, re-doing the wiring/electrics, undoing the 'hacks' that previous owners over it's looooooong life have made, etc.

Of course it makes no sense from a value/commercial standpoint but a nicely restored and fully working one would definitely be in the 'fun' and 'conversation starter' category.

Bye, Arno.

Arno wrote:As it works, and if you are so inclined, it would make a nice restoration/refurb project.

Case probably needs some metalwork and repairs, re-doing the wiring/electrics, undoing the 'hacks' that previous owners over it's looooooong life have made, etc.

Of course it makes no sense from a value/commercial standpoint but a nicely restored and fully working one would definitely be in the 'fun' and 'conversation starter' category.

Bye, Arno.

Specific knowledge of the different taps is what I’m after. That’s the whole purpose of the OP. That’s something that would be required for refurb anyhow. There isn’t a single identifying mark on the thing.... anywhere. The blue paint is oviously not original either. I posted here in case anyone had experience with one like it or, perhaps, owns one or something. Also, the only real “hacking” done was the removal of the on/off switch which doesn’t concern me very much since the breaker serves the purpose and is easy to get to. The Vise Grip pliars on the terminal looks to be more necessary than hacking because it makes switching outputs much easier. Those taps have a very firm grip on the terminal when plugged in which makes for a great connection. I will likely resort to having an assistant check each output with a meter while I burn rods. I’d love to be able to at least know what the original tap markings were.

Pretty sure all buzzboxes were tapped for aprox. 40, 60, 75, 90, 105, 120, 165, 150 ,175, 200, 225, regardless of year or model.

Demented wrote:Pretty sure all buzzboxes were tapped for aprox. 40, 60, 75, 90, 105, 120, 165, 150 ,175, 200, 225, regardless of year or model.

Understood... but those are 11 ranges. Since I have 3 work taps and 3 heat taps then it looks if there are 24 options as to what the end result will be at the electrode. Without the markings or knowledge of them, it’s just a trial & error deal. Like I said, I don’t have any information about this power source whatsoever. My post is simply a shot in the dark at gaining knowledge of it. I thought of consulting Lincoln directly but I doubt there would be any success. I dare say that, if they still made equipment as well made as this, they’d have probably run themselves out of business. Such is the same case as my old Ford 8N. You won’t find any of today’s tractors still going strong in 66 years. I may reach out to Lincoln and see if they can tell me anything since it looks so much like their cabinet.

Contacted Lincoln via phone. E-mail sent with picture and waiting. The man I spoke with was very helpful and wants to see if he can help. He suggests that it could be AC/DC because of the number of taps but I wouldn’t know. We’ll see I suppose.

Is there a rectifier bridge inside, or do the taps lead straight out?

Demented wrote:Is there a rectifier bridge inside, or do the taps lead straight out?

Haven’t looked.

Guy at Lincoln emailed me back with a PDF conversion of the photocopied operator manual. It’s a Lincoln AC-180-T. Document dated January 1959. The 8 electrode terminals are 20, 40, 60, 80, 100, 125, 150, and 180. The three “work” terminals are low, medium, and high allowing a little adjustment to the general heat setting chosen with whichever electrode terminal . This is how I’ve been doing it without knowing the intended ratings so that’s great.

Thank you for your replies, fellas.