[luckyroo20]

I've been struggling with my root pass for some time. Example: When I am whipping and pausing the puddle feels like its not moving. Other times the keyhole gets too big on me

Can you look at my welding and tell me if I'm getting enough penetration and if you see any defects. Any advice would help. Thanks

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[Poland308]

Sounds like it’s either an uneven fit up, or just a need of more practice. Travel speed, arc length, and rod angle. All three are critical. How many pounds of rod have you burnt in you practice?

[luckyroo20]

Sounds like it’s either an uneven fit up, or just a need of more practice. Travel speed, arc length, and rod angle. All three are critical. How many pounds of rod have you burnt in you practice?

Like 4 pounds

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[Poland308]

Run another 50.

[luckyroo20]

Run another 50.

What amp do u usually run at for the root pass?

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[Poland308]

6010 1/8 open butt. 3/32 gap 1/8 land. 70 -80 amps

[gnabgib]

[quote="luckyroo20"]I've been struggling with my root pass for some time. Example: When I am whipping and pausing the puddle feels like its not moving. Other times the keyhole gets too big on me

Can you look at my welding and tell me if I'm getting enough penetration and if you see any defects. Any advice would help. Thanks[img]

Why whip and pause? Also getting a decent clean bit of steel will help. I do triangular pattern on vertical up, pausing on each side. Some of your beads look crowned in the middle whereas they should have a fairly even thickness across and no one will be able to judge penetration from such a photo.
Sorry, a root pass? Yes well, I wouldn't be doing whip and pause. Set up with even gap and root face and rod pointing slightly up and a very slight weave. I was taught not to weave but found that I got a better result when doing a minimal one.

[Poland308]

It sounds like your having fit up issues. The gap, and land need to be as close to even as you can get if you want a concistant looking weld. Whip and pause, or just a steady drag are just tools you use to get the look you want. If I have a nice even gap and land then I just drag. I just whip and pause if my gap opens up or if my land gets thin. With practice you will begin to see more clearly when things are about to open up on you, and you will just automatically adjust your technique to match the situation as your welding. As for good penetration you either need to be able to see the back side, or be able to cut it apparat to see the cross section.( unless you can afford X-ray or ultrasound equipment). Your looking to see that the cut edge of the base metal was fully broken down and tied in. ( no undercut or original ground edge). Then your looking also at how thick the center of the weld bead pushed through. It needs to be flush or above. Above is called positive reinforcement. This has a maximum thickness above flush but that can change with the situation. often in an average WPS for 6010 its 1/8 inch or less of positive reinforcement.

[tungstendipper]

Run another 50.

Love this! Josh, we are lucky to have your wisdom and knowledge .