Good evening everyone.
I have a Moghilev CM-300 inverter, max specs - 300A and 4mm electrodes.
The first thing I did with my machine - was a barbecue grill, using E6013. But... reading articles and watching videos made me realize that E6013 has a light to medium penetration and I cannot use it in all situations.
As I want to make things that will be under stress in cold weather, I may need another electrode type, something for a strong weld with good penetration of the materials I will use - and here's the tricky part - I don't have an adjustable temperature oven for those electrodes that need to be baked before use.
I would like to know which electrodes will do the job for stressful cold timeswithout baking. The materials I will use will be iron and steel.
Thank you in advance.
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TraditionalToolworks
- TraditionalToolworks
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FWIW, I have used 6013 on various project and there is nothing wrong with it, IMO.thunder wrote:The first thing I did with my machine - was a barbecue grill, using E6013. But... reading articles and watching videos made me realize that E6013 has a light to medium penetration and I cannot use it in all situations.
Don't believe everything you read on the Internet!
Abe Lincoln
6013 has 60,000 lbs. of tensile strength, do you think a BBQ is going to exceed that? If your 'que sees 200 lbs. of charcoal and meat I would be shocked. People have been using 6013 for years on buzz boxes, nothing wrong with it as a welding rod. Gives a pretty good bead, IMO.
Any pics of you 'que? It's something I'd like to do but just not a priority as I use a Weber kettle to grill and a Weber Smokey Mountain for the real stuff...
Alan
Collector of old Iron!
Alan
Alan
hithunder wrote:Good evening everyone.
I have a Moghilev CM-300 inverter, max specs - 300A and 4mm electrodes.
As I want to make things that will be under stress in cold weather,
how cold?
what sort of things? major structural items?
what your talking about is using low hydrogen rods. you don't have to bake them for non-critical use.
also i would say that welder is not a 300amp welder. most likely somewhere between 140 and 200 amp welder.
if its got any info on it for power input that might give a better idea.
pretty common to get fake welders that are simply small welders with the display rigged to show higher amps.
tweak it until it breaks
6011 and 7018s will pretty much do anything you need them to. You might consider 7014s if you live in a very humid area and your rods will sit many months or years unused. but 7018s don't suddenly become useless after sitting out in the open for a little while, odds are you could weld mild steel with a 7018 that had been sitting in an open can stored in your bedroom for a year and it would be stronger than the steel itself, Its just when welding alloys and or anything that might kill someone should it fail that hydrogen embrittlement becomes a major concern.
Look for Charpy V-notch ratings. The higher the better, but as others have said, it all depends what you will be making. Perhaps you are thinking they will be under lots of cyclical stress, but perhaps it's not as bad as you think. Not trying to sound condescending, but you really haven't told us anything about what you need to build. 6013 is medium penetration on DCEP, and light penetration on DCEN. If you hold a tight and consistent arc, and run E6013s on their higher end, I'm sure you will get sufficient penetration.thunder wrote:I would like to know which electrodes will do the job for stressful cold timeswithout baking. The materials I will use will be iron and steel.
Thank you in advance.
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