Welding Tips and Tricks

Is it possible to put in a good uphill root on 5g? I’m in school and have never seen a good root uphill in 5g not even from the instructors. I am always either under flush or about to sag/drip, and if I do get good reinforcement it is almost always eaten out and undercut on the edges (usually uphill). I also have trouble jamming the rod in there without it sticking which I think contributes to the weld being undercut and not filled in completely. I am using a Lincoln invertec 275 and I have messed around with the heat and arc force but not got anywhere with it. Any tips, videos, or pictures where someone welds a 5g root uphill and makes it look right would be greatly appreciated.


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Uphill, your heat needs to be reduced from flat. Undercut (under-fill really) is a travel speed problem. It takes lots of practice so keep working on position and posture, and be sure you can get a good eye line to the puddle.

We talking stick? What rod ? What size?

Like Poland said, we need some more info.

What size pipe, which type of electrode and what size?

Long time ago in welding school I welded a lot with an old Invertec 300. I loved that machine, but it took some time getting used to. The arc on that thing was fierce and the heat always felt at least 20A higher than what the display said.
You have to learn to read the puddle and adjust the parameters to what You see. Don't go by the dails or display.

You have to learn to read the keyhole when welding pipe . If its not opening up then both walls aren't breaking down you maybe able to adjust arc length to open it up minimally in a pinch . If your key hole is opening up ti much then you need stab the rod in the bevel and reduce amperage. Weldiding pipe is hard, anyone who says it isn't, hasent done it . For me 6g was easier then 5 g . 5 g can be a real pain sometimes ,but is easier then 6g in the sense that both side of the weld are similar in position .

Also if you are getting undercut it can be from traveling to quickly or not having a big enough landing , i typically like to run a 3/32 land , with a nickel gap . Run 1/8th 6010 5p+ at 90 to 95 amps . But you have to stab the rod in there with high arc force , and go fast. If your dripping your moving to slowly.


And to address your sticking issue . Normally is your sticking your heat isnt high enough not always but most likely . In a good situation normally running 90 amps I establish my arc let the rod heat up and stab it in , if it sticks i turn it up or open my gap . If my land is not ideal on a field fit up and its sticming when I stab it the key hole and dripping , run a 1/16th cut off wheel in your gap and add to the land . Also if your welding sch40 don't be afraid to lay the bevel back a little more it will help .

Hope any of this info has helped, also my normal machines I use is , xmt 304 and 350 Miller, and Lincoln invertec 350 , and Everlast power arc 300 .
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What are the setting y’all are using for 6010? I’m usually having to burn hotter for 3/32’s with an arc force of 4 but I get lack of penetration... on the Miller machine I usually just select stiff 6010 and burn 70-75 amps for a root and get nice penetration...

My go to on a 6010 root for pipe is 3/32 gap 1/8 inch land. 1/8 6010 @ 80 amps.