Welding Tips and Tricks

Hello all, as per the subject title. I've heard some negative comments about the 6013 electrodes. I know that the 6011's are a deeper penetrating electrode but I plan on welding a wider pad on the side stand of my bike and the tubing isn't too thick. I don't want to take a chance of burning a hole through it. Thanks

Both rods have 60000 psi tinsel strength. But different characteristics during and after the weld. How thick is the tube? And what’s the purpose of the weld. Is it to just add thickness for wear or is it going to be structural?

https://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/C ... nElectric)

https://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/C ... nElectric)

These are from Lincoln. Look at the mechanical properties.

Poland308 wrote: How thick is the tube? And what’s the purpose of the weld. Is it to just add thickness for wear or is it going to be structural?

Dollar to a donut the tubing is 0.063

the tubing is is just a tad thicker than 1/16th and the flat stock that I'm welding it to, is 1/8th. I'm trying to shorten the kick stand and also enlarge the foot print area so that the kick stand doesn't sink in the black top during very hot days. Thanks

In my limited experience I have grown to dislike 6013, not because it's not a good rod, it actually lays a bead nice when the surface is horizontal for me. I find it pretty "runny" when trying to use it on vertical.

But the reason I have grown to dislike it, is that it doesn't penetrate very well at all.

Here's some tests that were done by a gent over on WeldingWeb that are often referred to, but this was done on another forum. Unfortunately he doesn't test 6010, but does 6013, 7014 and 7018.

https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/v ... p?t=790428

https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/v ... p?t=791248

https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi- ... &th=293919

The point is that 6013 only took 3 wacks with a 4 pound sledge to to basically pop off the weld, where the 7018 took 18 wacks and the weld folded over didn't actually separate, until he beat the plate in the other direction.

6010 is a fairly harsh arc that penetrates well, in my experience, but if you plan to run stick on 1/16" tube, you might be better off with 6013. Doesn't seem like your weld is structural and the 1/16" tube is going to present problems with most stick. The small diameter 6013 that you can find available is like running a wet noodle, something else to consider. You can get 1/16" 7018 from Tractor Supply (Hobart), not sure if that would be a consideration or not. They also have 6010 in 1/16" diameter as well. Any of the 1/16" diameter stick rods are flimsy, like a wet noodle.

This applications seems better suited for tig, my $0.02, I realize we all need to work within our means and tools we have.

6012s are better for finer work. They have a more efficient arc but are still nice and smooth to use. Slag is controllable compared to 6013. I know they are rare in the USA.

I don’t think I’d use 6010 on something that thin unless it was 3/32. Even then only if I had no other options.

well, tried the 6011 and sure enough, burnt a hole. was able to patch it up using 6013's. just welded everything up with the 6013's. it just needs to hold the bike up, not support a building. only have a stick welder for the occasional hobby welding thanks for everyone's input.

weldin mike 27 wrote:6012s are better for finer work. They have a more efficient arc but are still nice and smooth to use. Slag is controllable compared to 6013. I know they are rare in the USA.

i think one of the big catches with 6013 is there is so many different types around, designed for doing different things.
from pipe welding to auto body.

i tend to ignore tests where they do not say what brand, model, spec rod they are using.

Truth. There's a big difference between brands. Some use actual ingredients and others use dirt with dye in it and call it flux.

All this talk about 6013 I figured I had found a box of them laying here so I would run a few beads.

I'm not so sure it doesn't run nicer going vertical.

I've been advised against 6013 for anything that will be outside in cold temps as the metal apparently gets brittle in colder temperatures. So I mostly just use 7018, but I have a pack of thin diameter 6013s, useful to have anyway.

6013 don't love vert up.

Deposited weld material strength is more about joint configuration than weld metal. Any 60 rod has 60000 psi tensile strength, but a little reading on how tensile strength is measured will put that parameter in perspective.

Poland308 wrote:Deposited weld material strength is more about joint configuration than weld metal. Any 60 rod has 60000 psi tensile strength, but a little reading on how tensile strength is measured will put that parameter in perspective.

+1. The physical characteristics of the bare rod bear little consequence on the final welded joint characteristics, which is a product of many influencing factors.

DennisCA wrote:I've been advised against 6013 for anything that will be outside in cold temps as the metal apparently gets brittle in colder temperatures. So I mostly just use 7018, but I have a pack of thin diameter 6013s, useful to have anyway.

ALL metals get brittle at colder temperatures. How much is usually quantified by the Charpy V-notch measurements, which are done in controlled environments. Even then, those tests are subjected to temperatures well outside the norm of standard use. Something like -50°F, or there-abouts. Only a few places get that cold. And even then, that doesn't mean that the metal will shatter if you smack the part with a tree branch. Those tests have a specifically determined notch created for the sole-purpose of facilitating and propagating a stress fracture, and thus large-scale crack that leads to complete failure.

Low hydrogen processes or rods are required for low temp work. Mig and tig are low hydrogen processes by nature. For stick you need fresh or hot 7016/18.

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