Welding Tips and Tricks

Hello all. Nice site. I'm taking a class to learn how to weld just as a hobby, but I would like to be good at it so I was hoping you can give me some guidance. I have many questions but I think I'll start separate threads for them so as not to confuse things. For now I would just like so criticism on my welds and how to practice to keep getting consistent results.

So here are my welds. What do you guys think?

First weld (the one on top):


Second:


Third:


Fourth:

Don't breath any fumes when welding on galvanized metal. Zinc poisoning sucks.

keep a tight arc....tight enough that you feel a slight "grinding sand"sensation in the handle....if you are right handed you should push left....count while you weld, this is for uniform weld appearance, if you twitch/whip /weave- you count on the upstrokes and all your welds will take on a signature ripple...twelve years on the job and that's all i can say to help a newbie without fuckin' you up too bad.

hey those look like my first weld beads

I am new to SMAW also. things i have picked up on is that 7018 is probably the nicest to weld with. way nicer then that 6010 crap.
i prefer DCEP or reverse polarity as it puts more heat into the workpiece and is a more controlable arc.
also, pick your amperage correctly. 7018 or 7014 (if you dont have an oven) the amps is easy to find out. say 1/8" rod, .125" X 1000 = 125 amps. its a great starting point. for the 6010, assume one smaller size. 1/8"=3/32" therefor around 90amps. its not perfect, but its a great place to start.
also maintain about 10deg back hand... or pull.... it will give deep penitration and ya, enough said
get some 7014 1/8" and play dude! 7014 does not need much manipulation (circles, weaves, etc.) but i like to move and pause technique. do not be affraid to close that arc gap, remember to strike, stabilize, build (get material build up and hot, to eliminate porosity), move, and pause at the end for a moment, then brake the arc fast!
best advice is to get some seat time, 3/8" cold rolled plate 6"X8" and stack beads.
oh and use both hands and get comfortable.

I think the most important tip I've learned so far is to ***RELAX***. Relax your stinger hand!!! You need your stinger hand to have a light touch, and if your tensed up your going to be jerky. Keep your stinger hand relaxed, lightly strike your metal and lay your arc in there and just focus on maintaining the puddle. Take a deep breath and calm down.

As for heat settings, you want to be as low as possible while still being able to strike an arc and maintain a puddle. If you bury the rod to where its touching the metal, and the arc doesnt go out, your hot enough. If it sticks, turn it up 5 amps and try again.

If your too hot, the base metal will start melting before you can even start movin the puddle. Splatter everywhere, everythings just out of control as Ive seen it put.

Fiddle around with your machine. Run it too hot. Burn through the metal a couple times so you know whats happening and what it sounds/looks like when your too hot. Dont get frustrated(you will get frustrated, just dont quit.)

Good luck bro keep us updated!

What you need to remember is to be slow and steady. If you are using 7018 you can drag the electrode. If you keep the arc tight and go slow and steady you will eventually be making nice beads.For 7018 100 to 120 should be good on the amperage depending on the thickness.Good luck.

with 7018 and stacking beads you really dont need to manipulate the rod. just rest your hand on the other hand and take it slow. keep the tight arc and just stay with it. its not something you can learn over night. once you get the feeling of running the beads while keeping the tight arc in a flat position, then put the plate vertical and run more beads in the horizonal position. then run them vertical, then overhead. just make sure your comfortable with one before you move on to the next. they say the flat is the easiest, but with me its where i have the most problems, because i never run flat. so it sometimes takes me a minute to get with it...lol... practice, practice, practice!!! thats the only way you'll be a good welder.

so far for me flat is the more difficult than horizontal(which I havnt done alot of) and vertical(which seems to end up being the most im doing) because, at least for me, its more difficult to manipulate the electrode angle. Its not so hard if yuo got the joint running away from you, but when its across your body, which is what I've been told is the best to learn, its alot more difficult unless yuor directly on top of your work piece, which you usually arnt.

don't rule out that good old 6010 rod. lincoln makes 5P and 5P+ - 5P is the red rod you'll hear guys refer to. i use 6010 5P+ for all passes except cap. i like the 5P for that - very good rod for rusty and dirty steel. also doesn't need drying like the 7018 - keep burning brother

yes sir, i've made a couple dollars with 5P