Welding Tips and Tricks

Lincoln Electric make much of whipping the electrode to control the heat input into the pool, for example, to control the keyhole in a root run. But they do this with cellulosic electrodes eg the Fleetweld (E6010). My understanding is that if you try this with a rutile rod (eg E6013) (and maybe a 7018 low hydrogen), there is a danger of slag entrapment in the weld. (In Lesson 1.10 of the Lincoln book New lessons in Arc Welding, they use a whipping motion both to keep the puddle hot as well as cool, but I struggle to get my head round that.)

I'd much appreciate the expert view on this.

Martin

Hi, Martin,

With 6010, I've used "whipping" in repair and structural welds where the gap is not constant and I have an area wider than my electrode to fill.

I have done similar with 7018 to fill gaps, but I can't call it "whipping", as the pace is much slower. (The slow pace keeps the slag molten and reduces the risk of inclusions, though I've only done this in non-critical situations.)

If you have a good fit and a constant gap at the size of your rod diameter, there is no real need to whip a 6010 root. (At least the way I was taught.)

Your mileage may vary...

Steve

Many thanks, Steve, for your sound advice. It makes perfect sense. I'm sure that you are right: if the gap and rootface are correct - for the rod size and current - and the travel speed is constant and the technique is also right, there should be no need to whip, So rather than becoming adept at whipping the electrode, I should turn my energies to getting everything, especially the current setting, right for the joint conditions. Then at a later date, master whipping for those occasions when the fitup is variable.

Many thanks also for advising on the different technique with 7018s.

Martin