Hey ya'll! Newbie here. Just started learning to weld at my local community college. Looking for a career change!
Flat welding with 6010 and 7018, no real problems there. But attempting a vertical 6010 pass is becoming frustrating.
I start out well enough, but my puddle begins to sag until I'm left with a sad glob. I guess I'm moving too slowly. Any advice?
- Otto Nobedder
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Weldmonger
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Joined:Thu Jan 06, 2011 11:40 pm
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Location:Near New Orleans
The gap you're welding should never be larger than your rod diameter, unless you're doing repairs (a different animal) and have no choice.
It is entirely possible to put in a 6010 root without looking, once you've established the arc. 6010 behaves very consistently, and any difficulties you encounter are likely due to the joint preparation. A properly fitted joint, and an appropriate machine setting, will enable you to jamb the rod into the root and drag it around at a consistent rate.
What are the circumstances of your practice? I'd need more details to try to diagnose your difficulty.
Steve
It is entirely possible to put in a 6010 root without looking, once you've established the arc. 6010 behaves very consistently, and any difficulties you encounter are likely due to the joint preparation. A properly fitted joint, and an appropriate machine setting, will enable you to jamb the rod into the root and drag it around at a consistent rate.
What are the circumstances of your practice? I'd need more details to try to diagnose your difficulty.
Steve
Right now, I'm just doing a vertical T weld using butted up coupons. Last night was better for me, but it's still ugly compared to the instructors example. I think lowering my amps to 80 from 85 has helped, but I'm still moving too fast. The 6010 pass just looks sloppy, my 7018 however is coming around. Really want to get to the point where my slag just peels off in one solid peice!
- Otto Nobedder
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Weldmonger
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Posts:
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Joined:Thu Jan 06, 2011 11:40 pm
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Location:Near New Orleans
For a vertical tee, butted up (no gap), I'd personally (this may not be appropriate; I've got many years of this under my belt) turn the welder up to about 105A (for 1/8" 6010), and once establishing an arc jamb the rod in like I was intentionally trying to stick it, and (@ about 15-20 degree angle) drag the rod at the speed the rod burns while pushing it in to the joint. (Up, down, doesn't matter, as long as the angle is "drag".) The rod will almost weld by itself.
Steve
Steve
I got my cert. in May. That was the test to receive my cert,-verticle up. I was a nightmare. We had to make our own pads. 75* angle with a 3/4" space and 1" back up strip. We got three tries to pass. I didn't pass the first time. It was melt city. I did pas my second time. We had to qualify with a 5/32" and a 1/8". The amps and speed are everthing. With a 5/32" rod, lower the amps and speed up the travel. The oposite for thicker rods. Also the motion is important to. It's called "sad face". Also you're checked for undercutting. It's hard to tell what the issue is if we really can't see you weld. Take your time - practice. You're gonna have to do what feels right. Every welder has gone what you're going thru. It's hard, but, you'll get it. 