Stick Welding Tips, Certification tests, machines, projects
Nils
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Fri Jan 11, 2013 7:46 pm

Now that I've been doing a variety of odd jobs in my new mobile welding business, I have quickly discovered that the 6010 rod is awesome. Use to not care for it much, with all its yucky spatter and stubborn slag. But when you're welding a repair on old stuff with rust and paint and who knows what, screw the 7018. The 6010 is the sh!t. I also save my partially used sticks, have a little collection of them collected in a bin inside the truck. They're great for quick tacks or tight places where a full length rod just won't fit. Also, vertical, overhead, whatever, this stuff makes it easy.
Everlast PowerTig 250EX, PowerTig 185 Micro, PowerArc 160STH, Miller Trailblazer 301G, Millermatic 140 Auto-Set
nickn372
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Sat Jan 28, 2012 11:35 am
  • Location:
    Sugarcreek, Ohio

Hahaha yeah you hit the nail on the head there dude. I use 6010 and 7018 side by side a lot too. I will put a primary pass on of 6010 in a yucky situation where no amount of cleaning in the world will get it right then come back with a two or three bead pass over it with 7018. Also if you do any build up repairs where welds may be partially or all the way worn off a hot pass of 6010 through the joint will help clean the crud out and will leave a good deep root weld to build from. I know I know grind it out first yadda yadda yadda. In some of the wear parts I work on structural rigidity is not the top concern its wear life so... but good post nils.
Be the monkey....
Post Reply