Welding Tips and Tricks

Ok,

Got a job to mount these forks on this Michigan loader....

I got a youtube vid of the general idea.

Here's a few pics.

I'll get the video on youtube.

These forks are 48inch each way.

The bucket is 40inches from cutting edge to top.

I'll let you know the rest of the plans when I know.

~John

I'm not taking the bait on the 6013 thing for this application - how about flux core ? ( like a Horrible Freight 90 amp ! )

Seriously - if you Google image the 4 in 1 bucket on a JCB 3CX or later they all have pallet forks similar to your project- the bar is quite hard & about 1-1/2" diameter ( possible EN24T ) takes a fair force to straighten in a press - it's made in 2 pieces for ease of fitting & repair & is held in by the 6" tube in the center of the bucket with a bolt - it works OK but is a complete b#stard to use as you are completely blind & can only see the forks at certain heights - try to make the forks sit parallel with the top or bottom of the bucket so the operator has something to go by when using them - the better solution is to have the bucket & forks on a quick hitch & swap them over as needed though I realize this is probably not practical or cost effective - but it's a heck of alot easier if using the forks much - look forward to seeing it finished.

Now is there going to be a new section for cooking tips ? we had all the Aussie BBQ jokes - but no advice on cooking up balls !

noddybrian wrote: Now is there going to be a new section for cooking tips ? we had all the Aussie BBQ jokes - but no advice on cooking up balls !

-Jonathan

3/32" 6013 is clearly too big - 1/16" would be much better at about 35 amps.
Some harbor freight battery chargers will do that for you.
Otherwise the metal will get all red and glowy looking while you weld.
That could cause burns when you touch it...safer to use just enough heat to melt the old paint

How about that 3M tape that Werkspace found ? that looked promising as long as it's not raining when you fit the forks - or I heard JB weld is good ! - not sure about tensile strength ( but who knows it could be more than 6013 )

noddybrian wrote:How about that 3M tape that Werkspace found ? that looked promising as long as it's not raining when you fit the forks - or I heard JB weld is good ! - not sure about tensile strength ( but who knows it could be more than 6013 )

Gaffers tape is nice, like duct tape but leaves no residue

I'll just use jbweld.

Much safer....

And no burn through.

~John

Here's the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z2LCzqAH4Yk

John,
I have some 3M blue painters tape if the other methods fail.
-Jonathan

Just got a 7ft piece of 4 inch wide by 1/2 inch thick flat bar.
I got a 1 1/4 drill bit, t-bevel square, grinder, chop saw, and a camera!!

Stay tuned,
~John

how are you going to keep the forks from moving horizontally on the bar? Doesn't look like theres anyway to lock them into place.

If you'd quit beating it with a hammer the welds wouldn't break !

Antorcha wrote:If you'd quit beating it with a hammer the welds wouldn't break !

Ummm....
What is the point of welding???

kermdawg wrote:how are you going to keep the forks from moving horizontally on the bar? Doesn't look like theres anyway to lock them into place.

They shouldn't move anywhere.
I could drill and tap that pipe, but it should be a smooth fit.


John

Ah, so the forks aren't going to be adjustable?

I think you could weld some stops and make slots the forks could sit in on the top edge of the bucket, then you could just roll the works down and slide em over if you wanted to adjust em.

AKweldshop wrote:

Antorcha wrote:If you'd quit beating it with a hammer the welds wouldn't break !

Ummm....
What is the point of welding???

kermdawg wrote:how are you going to keep the forks from moving horizontally on the bar? Doesn't look like theres anyway to lock them into place.

They shouldn't move anywhere.
I could drill and tap that pipe, but it should be a smooth fit.


John

Tell ya what. Take a piece of 3/8 hot roll and brake it 90 in a good sharp press.
Clamp it up and take a hammer to it and see when it breaks.
You'll be amazed. Next time you'll cut and 6013 instead.

At this point we can converse about useless steel.

Oh please - don't start him off on the 6013 again - no one is going to convince him that good ones work OK for suitable jobs - I reckon he's got a touch of OCD about 7018 or maybe he thinks 6013 were invented by commies ! ( not really AK - if it works for you keep with what you know ! )

Hey 6013 is great for teaching people how to strike an arc and run a bead. That's what it's for isn't it???

kermdawg wrote:Hey 6013 is great for teaching people how to strike an arc and run a bead. That's what it's for isn't it???

That's its purpose.
Out in the world, we you xx10 and xx18.

Kerndawg,
Watch my video again.

kermdawg wrote:Hey 6013 is great for teaching people how to strike an arc and run a bead. That's what it's for isn't it???

It's OK for that but unlike 7014, 6013 is not a true drag rod.7014 is a better teaching tool(rod) If you hold an arc with 6013 it becomes a different critter. It IS really nice to be able to drag on some thin box tube so you don't blow holes but by design, it is NOT a "drag rod".
It's a tool in the box. Nothing more.
If I was a desert Island stowaway, I want Marianne(not Ginger) and a box of 6011 Inweld 3/32. If I can't weld it with that it can't be welded !
Lay in the rain forest mud and play with your faves. I'll be the guy making the steam and tossing sparks.
DISCLAIMER: Won't be purty but we'll make it home.

Id love to see you break that with 3 blows.

Don't get AK going on that again please ! - he'd try anyhow just to hate on it if that's 6013 ! naturally he did'nt mention he had a 28lb hammer for that test ! I think he borrowed it from Thor !

That's a wide looking weave on the cap - is this just for #hits & giggles or you got a test to do - last WPS I saw here in 1/2" open root vertical called for a 2 run split cap - have we finally got something the EU can agree on with the paper work ? if so does it have a recognized code / number & can you divulge the written procedure as there are several guys been asking about this in view of new requirements by some of the insurance companies.

noddybrian wrote:Don't get AK going on that again please ! - he'd try anyhow just to hate on it if that's 6013 ! naturally he did'nt mention he had a 28lb hammer for that test ! I think he borrowed it from Thor !

I will get him fired up again, respectfully. John, did you perform this test? I do not recall you putting up the pictures or specs on the forum. If you were the one who did this test, what position, weld size, amperage, weight of hammer? Personally I think this test is false. There is no way it took 3 blows to break a 6013 weld vs 20 something on 7018. Could be wrong I guess. Also as stated before, all a hammer test proves is impact load and show me where you find impact loading on a normal weldment.
Let the games begin
-Jonathan

Superiorwelding wrote:

noddybrian wrote:Don't get AK going on that again please ! - he'd try anyhow just to hate on it if that's 6013 ! naturally he did'nt mention he had a 28lb hammer for that test ! I think he borrowed it from Thor !

I will get him fired up again, respectfully. John, did you perform this test? I do not recall you putting up the pictures or specs on the forum. If you were the one who did this test, what position, weld size, amperage, weight of hammer? Personally I think this test is false. There is no way it took 3 blows to break a 6013 weld vs 20 something on 7018. Could be wrong I guess. Also as stated before, all a hammer test proves is impact load and show me where you find impact loading on a normal weldment.
Let the games begin
-Jonathan

This test was done by the best stick weldor on the forums.

CEP from WW, aka Shield Arc from the other forums.

~John