Welding Tips and Tricks

I'm a beginner to the whole pipe welding thing so I wanna know what is the best voltage to weld on the open root & should I use the whip & pause technique or just let the rod burn into the pipe???

Voltage? OK, I'm fairly new to welding, but I thought for SMAW you get what the machine gives you.
Now arc force is somewhat close. For open root pipe welding I turn the arc force up real high, but I can't adjust the voltage on my machines in the SMAW mode.

Be nice, now...

He said, "beginner"...

6010 SMAW is set by current, not voltage, and our poster may not know the difference.

My preference is a "bury-rod" technique. I'll run 1/8" 6010 at 105A, and jamb it in like I'm angry at it. When right, it responds the same. The pipe will sound like it's full of angry bees.

This method is not for everyone.

Steve S

chadmh91 wrote:I'm a beginner to the whole pipe welding thing so I wanna know what is the best voltage to weld on the open root & should I use the whip & pause technique or just let the rod burn into the pipe???

Now we start the advanced discussions You will adjust your amperage not voltage on the machine. Your voltage will adjust or move depending on your arc length. More length, more voltage. Less length, more amperage.
To answer your question though, I like 3/32"-1/8" gap with a drag technique. If you are doing it right the sparks will be inside the pipe. The whip and pause will work too if that is your thing. I can do it but much prefer the drag. To help answer more questions we need what pipe size and what does the WPS specify?

Shield Arc,
I don't think you are a beginner
-Jonathan

The whip and pause is usually what you start with. The drag technique is a little more advanced. With the whip and pause you have more control over the penetration because you can see the keyhole and watch it fill in. If you just let the rod burn into the landing you wont penetrate all the way. You wanna melt through the landing and fill it in with your molten weld metal, tying everything together as you do. Thats the keyhole.

I'll admit I don't have much experience with the drag technique. I have tried it and it looked great while I was welding it, only to clean the slag off and have two seperate plates with a line of weld metal between them. I think I went to fast :p

Anyway, the keyhole technique is pretty sure-fire once you master it. Even if you blow a hole in the thing, it's not the end of the world, just grab a bigger rod Theres 10 differant ways you can control the keyhole as well. Just gotta experiment and practice practice practice.

Jody has a pretty good video on 6010 open root welds on his site as well.

http://welding-tv.com/2013/12/17/6g-6010-root/ Link to above video

Oh ya, a good starting point for your amperage is usually around 85 amps, depending on machine.

So while doing the whip & pause technique do you push the rod inside the pipe??

I realize the OP did'nt really mean to say voltage - but some engine drives have a separate voltage control - one of my favorite old Petbow machines had two dials - one for amps - the other volts - it was a great ( if noisy ) machine - you could dial in almost any rod to run well with them.

Taking a welding test with 4 inch pipe tomorrow, how hot should my machine be??

You haven't told us the rod size, gap or land.
Extremely crucial, for us to give right info...

chadmh91 wrote:Taking a welding test with 4 inch pipe tomorrow, how hot should my machine be??

On and in the upright position
Need more info to answer. Wall thickness, rod, gap, land etc
-Jonathan

hot enough to hold a real tight arc without sticking, and hot enough to melt both pieces of metal together into one cohesive piece of steel.